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Fashion

Fabulously Applying the Same Remedy.

In the “Here We Go Again” category, another month, another headline on layoffs at the big publishing houses.  It is hard to imagine who will be left to write about a perfume review. It is hard to see just how many more staff members can be fired from a company becomes dysfunctional. Applying the same not working remedy for the same long term illness has not worked.

First, Hearst, the Eight Avenue headquartered publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan announced 200 employees would be fired.  President Debi Chirichella gave the usual excuse of allocating resources to support goals, etc. The reality is the company may employ A.I. to produce articles.  Hearst’s flagship title Harper’s Bazaar will publish one less print edition next year, from ten to nine.

The second announcement of fashion magazines meltdown came from Conde Nast.  The collection of prestigious magazines released underperforming financial figures.  On Thursday December 5th, GQ heads rolled along with other workers.  Last year Group leader Roger Lynch fired 5% of the staff, decamped to cheaper digs in London and New York City while trying to pivot to digital realms. Claiming ad buys are down, costs are up, the Vogue owner is seeking new bottom line cuts.

Plush Meltdown

As this plush content calamity happens, the great survivor Anna Wintour continues with the title Chief Content Officer over several titles. The simple question is, why? The strategy of jettisoned international editors has failed, one template for all local versions has failed.  Editors are now working across multiple titles and platforms.  What made Vogue magazines unique has become as exciting as eating at a global fast-food chain. Conde Nast became a sinking brand extension of Wintour.

Hearst and Conde Nast are going to have to search for new ideas as 2025 looks to be difficult year with conflicts, consumer pressures and business cutbacks. Will the once uncontested style gate keepers be relevant? Dinosaurs existed until one day they did not.

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Feature

The 47th Influencer

The Donald Trump influence on Fashion and Masculinity will be felt in the fashion industry.  Professionals should not underestimate the influence of a President’s outlook on style.  John F. Kennedy’s inauguration, the President went hatless on a cold January day, that styling decision placed a once accessory staple to the back of the men’s closet for a generation.  Men dropped the headwear.   Of course, his First Lady who needs no introduction, Jackie, is a timeless fashion icon.    

This election could mark an unexpected shift in many ways. People turned away from mass media for opinions.  Mainstream channels took a credibility hit.   Not only did they get it wrong by a September Issue Size Vogue issue, television commentators could not hide the disbelief on live television.   The fashion press misread voter sentiments, publications placed a bet on the wrong horse, then lost. What does that say about their insight?  No amount of deflection or no comments can cover up the scale of this pubic misread.  After putting Kamala Harris on numerous covers, no one expects Head Editor in charge Anna Wintour to have a public make up phone call to Melania Trump. 

Elle
Elle

Creative directors will need a rethink over the next months and years.  Since the term “gender” became a political toxin, consumers may move away from gender free fashion, out of style.  Sure, the houses can produce it. Who will buy the collections outside of four stores in NYC and SF? The marketing and messaging will take a different course.  Companies are ditching DEI initiatives faster than a Shein can copy a runway look.  Bottom line decisions trump social movements in boardrooms.   The 47th Unites States leader’s 75 million voters are too big a market to ignore.   

There could be a silver lining, style hope.   Brands could become counter reactionary, more underground.  The Gap was born in the counter culture of San Francisco.  The Mini Skirt shock off the feminine rigidity of the fifties.

The 47th head of the United States will leave an imprint on the way we dress, like or not. 

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Fashion

All Gussied Up

At the recent press events I attended, noticing the fashion tribe I wondered.  Why do they wear everything but the frying pan? Many were gussied up wearing all the labels from their shelves popping in and out of offices and showrooms. I wondered if there had been a looting at a luxury department store.   The pride of being kitsch while not understand the meaning of the word scares me.

Chanel’s quote is, “The last thing you put on, take off.” This has been lost on the Kill for TikTok crowd.   When at one time anyone with an eye could see quality and style, in today’s social media driven world standing out as if you were the Oscar Mayer Weiner Mobile at a 4th of July Parade means everything. 

It is sad to look dated after only two hours.  A great style is eternal.  Jackie O never wore a brand emblazoned on her chest. Before Covid, around 2018, many fashion houses redesigned logos to take advantage of the camera phone ratio in an attempt to attract younger buyers.  Monogramed mania took over the fashion industry. Every piece had to display a name.

The world had been hit with a name brand sledgehammer. The influencers, TikTokers wear everything all at once.  This embellishment veers to pathological bad taste.  Imagine stuck in a room with a person who has a big Louis Vuitton bag, Chanel glasses, oversized Balenciaga sneakers and a shinning Gucci jacket. I needed a certified CPA degree to track all the names.   How many of these items were fake?  No clue!

The shift to subtle fashion has taken place, however I do not think it has made its way to the younger crowd. “Bling” is still a way of life, showing off for the camera.  Thankfully, kitchen items do not have a YSL monogram on the side. 

Categories
Fashion Feature

The Black Dandy

The theme for MET GALA is Black Dandy. Superfine: Tapping into Black Style will be front and center on the Mega Red Carpet May 5th 2025 in New York City.

These Black Dandies came from our Pitti Uomo collection.

Categories
Fashion

A Fashion Crisis At Hand

The fashion crisis is at hand. When journalist from major publications start sounding the bell over the lack of creativity on the recent runways, there are big problems. What took them so long to see the trees? For years the head in the sand was the modus operandi in the glamorous circles of Milan, Paris, New York and London. Corporations could squeeze designers dry with as many as eight to ten collections a year. When the creative is dry, on the next one. Corporate heads needed shows to sell everything from over priced hand bags to perfumes. Social media’s inexhaustible need for flashy images contributed to fashion’s current tango on the cliffside. Influencers came cheap, while cheapened the value of once aspirational brands.

The fashion world will have fewer cheek to cheek kisses in the coming months.

Fashion Crisis
Dana Thomas Newsletter Headline
Categories
Fashion Feature

Markdowns Here We Come

Global headlines have spooked consumers.  Shoppers are holding back on purchases, electing to save money instead of splurging on fun buys. Fashion brands and retailers struggle to lure buyers. Stores could are overstocked with unsold pieces. Now, as the holiday season approaches, companies are in early markdown stages trying to move merchandise. 

Relax and wait to get that special item you always wanted and a good price.  After all, “He/she that can have patience can have what he/she will.”

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Fashion

Spring 2025 Fashion Week Reviews

Of course we have not forgotten Fashion Week during Tech Month. Going over the looks is always a pleasure. Look for our reviews and Before Tacky Podcast soon.

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Fashion Feature

Luxury’s Lost Luster

How did luxury lose its luster? There are many answers to this question.  As the industry reels from lower profits while consumers cut back on aspirational purchases.  Some answers require a somewhat deeper analysis. 

As masstige became a business model for exclusive brands, they began to lose their allure.  Overproducing so called “desired pieces” accomplished the opposite effect, a splash of everyday common tattiness. When once there was admiration mingled with a touch of covetousness for a displayed logo or design, today, this comes across as vacuous consumption for the sake of showing off. 

As management drivers took control of the luxury industry, maximising the bottom line became paramount.  Corporate control is not about creation, but rather big profits.  A fast way to make money is to increase prices for high demand goods.  These price hikes did not go unnoticed by pinched shoppers who simply prioritized basics over splendours.

A cautionary tale is taking place.  Trying to be everything to everyone can mean nothing to all.   As luxury fashion continued casting a wide net, discerning buyers went in the opposite direction.  A corporate boss does not desire what a workers have.  Teen buyers are shaped by peers, not their parents. Generation Z has become mass labels wary.  Young buyers look less willing to chase brands, looking for different, more individualistic clothing.

The most important asset for any brand is reputation.  An ongoing sweatshop scandal has at least in the short term made many buyers question the real value of these labels. Factories employing illegal workers in poor conditions while producing high quality expensive goods rattled consumer trust. 

The luxury sector is entering a period of uncertainty. With retail in a tailspin, once rock solid markets in Asia in a slowdown, global conflicts, changes at the creative head levels, the Fall 2024 Fashion Week conversations will be more interesting than the runway collections. 

Categories
Fashion

Paris Fashion Week Goes On

From Paris Fashion Week July 2024, some images from our visit in the city.

Categories
Fashion

Is Paris the Same Place?

Traveling to Paris for Fashion Week can come across as glamour meets pretentious. However, for this visit, clothing was front and center. We hit some shows, but decided to focus on behind the scenes by getting the low down on the business and trends. Designers, press relations and stores gave us opinions on topics ranging from shopping experiences to the quiet luxury shift. The industry is going through some changes.