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Fashion

Crisis after Crisis

The fashion industry already under pressure from consumers cutting spending, then came the tariffs. If there is a fire, pouring more gas on does not help. The stakes went higher, Chinese producers launched a social media assault on luxury brands. Posts detailing the how brands manufacture products in the country.  Appealing to common sense and wallets, online speaker’s layout the real costs involved in making pricey handbags selling for thousands in Western shops. 

The Luxury Culture has taken a hit with recent headlines concerning sweatshop conditions in Italy but the latest posts could start an unraveling. Labels once ensconced in splendor with mood lite stores now come across as trustworthy as a used car lot in a bad section of town. 

Crisis in Fashion

What will China’s next salvo involve? Flooding the world with fakes and gray brands is a top guest. 

June’s London Fashion Week got cancelled.  What was once a main stop on the fashion caravan route is now off the itinerary.   The British capital had everything going for it, enough to be in the top four fashion weeks with New York, Milan and Paris.  But the scene has taken a hit with many brands moving their runway shows to other cities.  London will always be a fashion power given its influence, however a bit smaller. The next LFW happens in September.   

Designer sneakers have fallen out of favor.  A few years ago, everyone bought a pair of trainers from Balenciaga or Dior at $1000.  As shoppers fall back to Earth, expensive sneakers no longer have become the “It Pieces” as buyers trade down to more affordable sneakers.   Those red Converse at $45 have never looked better.

It is only April.  One thing for sure, the next eight months will be interesting. 

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Before Tacky podcast

Before Tacky Fashion Podcast talks to Edis

During Milan Fashion Week designer Edis Pala held his presentation based on influences and themes from the Balkans. On this fast episode of Before Tacky Fashion Podcast, Edis talks about a particular piece. This jacket would would be an eye catcher on any wearer.

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Fashion

Some Shoes from Milan 25

Milan Fashion Week always involves shoes.

Casadei
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Fashion

Keeping Up is Harder and Harder

These days it is harder and harder keeping up with who is where in the fashion business. The past week has been a checker board of movement.

Stay tuned for our Before Tacky Podcast on what is happening.

Demma

Demna takes over at Gucci.

Donatella Versace

Donatella is out at Versace.

Johnathan Anderson

Jonathan quits Loewe.

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Fashion

Calvin Klein Returns

The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein.  After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head.  Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand.  Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape. 

Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.

I’m a sexual person, and that’s reflected in my clothes and my advertisements. Calvin Klein

After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world.  Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018.  What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left.  After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.

Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK.  The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier. 

I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head.   The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired.  The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity. 

The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.

Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.

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Fashion

Couture Week Looks 2

Paris Fashion Week Couture continues.

Gaurav Gupta
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Fashion

Japan in the Style House

At Pitti Uomo, the words new technique are applied to the Japanese textile houses and brands. The final feel of the pieces shown in Florence is a bolt of blue. The JQ exhibit in the center building is always fascinating because of the way the fabrics feel: light and fine. The same question: How? The way the producers handle cashmere and silk should motivate designers to study the material process in Japan. Why these shirts and suits are not sold in major stores in the West is a mystery.

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Fashion

Brett Johnson’s New Look

From Milan Fashion Week Men, luxury fashion brand Brett Johnson showed off a new collection with a new slant on details using lavish materials.

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Fashion

Dandy Fashion 2025 at Pitti Uomo

From January 14th to 17th Pitti Uomo happened in Florence. The Dandy Parade never disappoints.

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Men 2025 is coming Soon

Milan Fashion Week Men 2025 starts January 17th. For all the coverage on the latest menswear style from Italy keep looking here.