The Before Tacky crew give their opinions on Milan Fashion Week Men.
This podcast sponsored by Colmar. See the t-shirt I am wearing below in this episode. 100% cotton colour blocked piece.
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Highlights from the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Over the next few days check back for more details. But meanwhile, sit back and enjoy the creative power of these looks.
Milan Fashion kicked off in the virtual mode this season. We the world under some form of lockdown, buyers and press are unable to travel. The Italian fashion capital put its best foot forward but going direct to the point. Filming closed runway shows instead of Calvin Klein Commercials. I want to say “Thank You”.
It’s easy to spot the trend this season: staying home. All is casual. For Italian designers this could be a blessing in disguise. Comfort took center stage. Using quality fabrics and relaxed looks that could transition from home office to going out for a stroll worked on many levels. It felt a bit as if the designers are under less pressure with some reinvention in their minds. Is a new classic emerging?
I had a conversation with Magazine Editor Alexander Popov from Effect Magazine. Are fashion weeks needed in theses times? Travel restrictions, publications squeezed, brands under pressure, returning to the normality of fashion seasons looks far off. From empty chairs at shows to buying things we may or may not need. We had a fun discussion on theses topics and more.
Click below to watch the webcast.
Who needs the latest Gucci Bag these days?
Alexander Popov is Editor in Chief of Effect Magazine. He regularly attends fashion weeks, but this year viewed the shows remotely. Hopefully next year life will be different.
I got a bit behind schedule. Of course I am paying attention to Milan Fashion Week. Sadly, we decided to skip the event this season because of Covid. Notheless, thanks to the digital platform we have been able to see the latest collections.
Stay Tuned for full reports.
The United Kingdom is going through a lot. A government just holding its head above water, under siege on all fronts. Like the rest of the world, Covid has taken a toll on the country. Citizens refusing to understand the gravity of the virus. The Brexit drama continues its tortuous walk to an end of a year climax.
On the fashion side, London Fashion Week, the smallest of the Big Four events mixed online and live shows. I have always had the opinion the British capital city charts a different course from Milan, Paris, and New York. The ability to make “quirky” work. To take a classic style, then completely transform the look with an edgy print, material, or cut. This is London’s secret as a fashion tolerant city.
Burberry by Tischi, not a great collection shown in a forest setting. But I liked the solid colors of blues and oranges. The mix of denim on an all weather coat not so much. Save that for the influencers who take 30 selfies a day.
As an American, when I saw Erdem’s collection I though of romantic fantasy from an 18thcentury novel. The story reads, woman meets man on a walk, they fall in love but have others while longing for each other. The long lengths, whites and soft floral prints would be worn by the heroine of the tale.
I am not familiar LaQuan Smith but better late than never. Street fabulous meets Glam best describes a brand that goes for sex appeal without the guilt.
Halpern decided to feature real front line workers in his presentation. Normally, I am not in favor of “real people” as models. However, his creations were about empowerment merged with optimism. Frilling Pom Pom Dresses and suits made of spirited colors and prints.
Emilia Wickstead’s white sail boat prints, cropped tops and cottons made for delightful collection. I wished I had been there to touch each piece. The complication was the fact each delicate look came across as simple.
Paris Haute Couture Week or days have passed. In the New Normal, runway shows are from a past era. Being front row at a Chanel is not immunity from Covid-19.
What I did I think? Without the runway and excitement it felt a bit of a let down. Brands opted for long videos and short films. I had the feeling of watching a long Calvin Klein Obsession commercial. Fashion Week should center around fashion but for some reason it did not. I am not sure why. Fashion houses spent a lot of money showcasing film techniques. For some reason, the clothes took a backseat, a bit strange for a fashion week. As a film buff, one time aspiring filmmaker, part film critic; I would ask some teams, “What Happened”? Fashion Weeks focus on clothes.
#Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture and Menswear Week without runways being delivered online felt like watching 3 hour Calvin Klein Obsession Commercials. #fashion #fashionweek #pfw #hautecouture #Mensfashion #fashionblogger #fashiondesigner #FashionFriday #ootdfashion # pic.twitter.com/0D26KNQQGT
— BlackandPaper (@BlackandPaper1) July 10, 2020
Looking for inspiration, fashion and film have a relationship dating back to the Golden Age of Hollywood. “The Women”, director George Cukor’s 1939 black and white all starer included a 6 minute Technicolor fashion parade. Audrey Hepburn’s “Funny Face” was scene for scene showcase of the actress wearing Givenchy looks. For some reason many designers and their creators decided to take a more expressive artistic sense mixed with the abstract.
Fashion is live spectacle. I prefer fashion week with blank staring models, self important editors, and Borrowed Sunday Best Dressed Wannabes.
Let’s hope for a vaccine soon.
The New Normal has affected glamour. Nothing has been untouched. The first Paris Fashion Week Couture moved online this season. I expected straight forward presentations but some brands took inspirations from different sources, producing short films.
This is an overview of Day 1.
An added bonus, menswear looks from Hermes.
My reaction to seeing fashion online. I am a bit sad. Part of the fun is attending the shows, soaking in the atmosphere, witnessing the creativity.
Is the future of the fashion business online? I am not convinced. Stay tuned for my video.