Today, I read Gucci’s sales fell 10%. Sales in China saved the copernicus luxury brand from collapse. Last week LVMH put the brakes on Superstar Rhianna’s fashion line after two years. These stores are not a surprise in the current environment where consumers are in a holding pattern. The Black and Paper Fashion Lowdown report has been in the planning stages for a few weeks. I got tied up with other features. Also, the daily news from the fashion and retail world floods my in box. Keeping up with the fashion industry headlines evolved int a full time job. I read the daily using press. One grim reminder after another on the new world we are navigating. Layoffs, bankruptcies, unsold merchandise, the end is not around the corner. 2020 was a great reveal. 2021 will be reality.
Shopping Mall mothballed since December.
After having conversations with fashion professionals from around the world, my conclusion is: Uncertainty. A reset will happen, a slimmer. more grounded business.
A Black and Paper exclusive interview with Korean Fashion Designer Avizmo Jo, creative head of De_caffeine homme. What attracted me to his brand were his outerwear pieces. I wanted to ask what inspires his designs and collections.
The looks for the Fall Outerwear, three buttons and lapel, where did you develop this idea?
Fall Outerwear
Planning and inspiration for this season’s collection was the fabric flow that occurred when the general form of clothing was raised tightly. By organizing the form that was created so that there was no inconvenience to the human body once again, we confirmed that the interesting form appeared again and used it as a detail of the collection. In the main look jacket and coat, the center of the clothes is connected with a long zipper so that it is locked to the bottom of just below the neck. Buttons were used only as decorative elements to create objects that made the design more prominent.
Your SS21 menswear tops are not conventional, is there a statement behind this?
SS21 is a new reinterpretation of traditional Taylor jackets and shirt designs, which I think are also traditional in another sence. Like our design philosophy, we acknowledged the beauty of traditional forms, changed it anew, and emphasized it again in a sharp and modern style.
Why did you design the SS 21 collection with symmetries in mind?
The reason why I chose asymmetry is because I think it’s interesting to see what happens when you wear disproportionately to the human body, with the weight of the fabric on both side and shoulder widths different. The asymmetric collar of the shirt is also the same image.
See The Collection Here
Do you think men should take more chances with their style choices?
Yes. I think there should be no restrictions on men’s fashion. There will be a style that we can suggest for each individual’s individuality.
The 20th century art movement Dadaism, in the 21st century, what does this mean to you in terms of fashion?
The Neodadaism I seek is closest to the explanation that otally disconnect what was once a form of social role from its original location and at the same time, it is trying to confuse the value it has and then bring it into the new value system.’ I think that recognizing, understanding and reusing existing roles here has a positive effect. Adding my design to a design with traditional values is creating new values and giving a new role.
Stay tuned for more interviews with global fashion designers on our web chat show “Before Tacky”.
I had a conversation with Magazine Editor Alexander Popov from Effect Magazine. Are fashion weeks needed in theses times? Travel restrictions, publications squeezed, brands under pressure, returning to the normality of fashion seasons looks far off. From empty chairs at shows to buying things we may or may not need. We had a fun discussion on theses topics and more.
Click below to watch the webcast.
Who needs the latest Gucci Bag these days?
Alexander Popov is Editor in Chief of Effect Magazine. He regularly attends fashion weeks, but this year viewed the shows remotely. Hopefully next year life will be different.
Eagerly awaited, yet, what happened? In February there was an announcement of a collaboration. Raf Simons’ first collection at Prada with Miuccia Prada. Looking back, were my expectations too high? Taking into account the circumstances, an audience free presentation during a social distancing fashion week in Milan. Perhaps the lockdown combined with the global somber mood took its toll on creative energy of the Belgium Designer. The debut collection resembled alien lifeforms uniforms straight from a “Star Trek The Next Generation” episode. The fast recap: The Enterprise comes across another space vessel manned by a society practicing an unusual fashion caste system.
I found nothing uplifting or inspiring from the 40 looks. The Spring 21 work comes across as a rush job. Downbeat! If there was central collective focus, I missed it cause my mouth fell open.
The Prada logo, front and centre on the neck for the fashionista selfie to alert everyone what she is wearing. Awkward! The prints, cut outs, and outerwear, and clutch jackets, minimalistic styles. All these elements combined gave off a sense of several ideals too many.
I have no clue how they collaborated, either in person or via Zoom. However, for a debut collection of two heavy hitters in the fashion world, this was let down in some ways. My question: Is this a case study of how two strong chefs can spoil a soup?
The United Kingdom is going through a lot. A government just holding its head above water, under siege on all fronts. Like the rest of the world, Covid has taken a toll on the country. Citizens refusing to understand the gravity of the virus. The Brexit drama continues its tortuous walk to an end of a year climax.
On the fashion side, London Fashion Week, the smallest of the Big Four events mixed online and live shows. I have always had the opinion the British capital city charts a different course from Milan, Paris, and New York. The ability to make “quirky” work. To take a classic style, then completely transform the look with an edgy print, material, or cut. This is London’s secret as a fashion tolerant city.
My Highlights
Burberry by Tischi, not a great collection shown in a forest setting. But I liked the solid colors of blues and oranges. The mix of denim on an all weather coat not so much. Save that for the influencers who take 30 selfies a day.
As an American, when I saw Erdem’s collection I though of romantic fantasy from an 18thcentury novel. The story reads, woman meets man on a walk, they fall in love but have others while longing for each other. The long lengths, whites and soft floral prints would be worn by the heroine of the tale.
I am not familiar LaQuan Smith but better late than never. Street fabulous meets Glam best describes a brand that goes for sex appeal without the guilt.
Halpern decided to feature real front line workers in his presentation. Normally, I am not in favor of “real people” as models. However, his creations were about empowerment merged with optimism. Frilling Pom Pom Dresses and suits made of spirited colors and prints.
Emilia Wickstead’s white sail boat prints, cropped tops and cottons made for delightful collection. I wished I had been there to touch each piece. The complication was the fact each delicate look came across as simple.
