Is there a need for fashion week? Being fashion enthusiasts we have to ponder this question. I recently spoke to a TV editor. He said, “No way will I attend a fashion show”. As the world continues reeling from Covid 19 the need for a new wardrobe, questionable. September is fashion month. Normally this time of you, packing, invites, calling colleagues about where to meet. Not this time. I got a few live invites, but did not expect many.
The First of the Big Four Fashion Weeks starts today.
As the numbers of infections increase in France, Italy, and UK, sitting in front row feels a bit oblivious. Bags, shoes, and complete looks to wear in front for a Zoom. The style effect gets lost from the neck down.
So many fashion related business face challenges. Models are no longer booked. Their agencies face closing. Magazines struggle to fill ad pages. Retailers attached to life support. Customers fearful of loosing jobs, have less discretionary income.
The future is not clear for all. One certaninty: the fashion industry’s day of reckoinig has arrived.
Stay Tuned for more on this subject. And of course, Black and Paper will cover the fashion weeks.
The famous silhouette at Fashion Week for the past 32 years. The perfectly coiffed helmut hairstyle. Oversized sunglasses. Statement Necklace. Calf-length dresses. Admired, feared, and copied, Anna Wintour commanded attention. Whether on purpose or not, when she entered the room her presence was felt far and wide.
Vogue Head Anna Wintour
As the daughter of famous newspaper editor Charles Wintour, publishing runs through her veins. Vogue USA sits at the top of a diminishing fashion magazine landscape besieged by the digital platforms. Now the resurgence of Black Lives Matter has placed the once venerated title and its editor in a cross hairs. As the pressure mounts for a more socially responsible outlook, many want answers about the lack of diverse voices in the fashion field, particularly at Vogue. Will Anna Survive?
The “C” Word
In Anna’s defense, her first cover model was Naomi Campbell in 1989. But, in 2020 the entire organization feels like a social club trapped in an episode of “Mad Men”. First, Andre Talley, former Vogue Editor at Large, released excepts from his book calling Wintour “A Colonial Broad”. OUCH!
Side Note: I plan on reading Mr. Talley’s book “The Chiffon Trenches”. I have some questions with a raised eyebrow concerning his new found “Identity” and “Sour Grapes” tell all.
I cannot remember a designer or creative of color championed by her or anyone at the publication. Based In New York City, I fail to see why it was difficult to find a Black Photographer. It took singer Beyonce to insist on one for her cover shoot. Former African American staff members (the few who worked there) complained of bad treatments and lazy stereotypes.
Can She Stay?
If a letter to Vogue staff on lack of support for African American Staff members was suppose to put out the fire, it only threw gasoline on a flame. Conde Nast Chairman Roger Lynch during a staff phone call defended the embattled Editor in Chief. Stating, “Wintour is staying put”. But with opens calls inside and out insisting on her resignation, it is hard to see how this corporate position is sustainable.
How will fashion handle this increasing awkward relationship? A one time asset suddenly has the potential of being a liability at fashion week. Social Media could be unforgiving if that scrutinizing silent gaze is sitting front row.
My Thoughts
As for my real opinion. It was no secret many publishing houses were and are cultural insensitive. I would not have met the “hiring profile”. Vogue USA never impressed me on the creative level. It did not take risks. Nor did I find it particularly stimulating or at the forefront of style. It was about the establishment. Who made into the club. However, guilty as charged, I read the September issue.
Earning a reputation for control, Anna Wintour has learned as the rest of us, no one is in control during these times.
The diversity question is first and forefront in the fashion business. Triggered by global protests, a reckoning is taking place. Are fashion environments racists? An industry in need of different voices, falling short when it comes to inclusion, fashion is an elitist field until recently only for the few living on 5th avenue in New York.
I made a quick video on my interactions, views and experiences.
I hope fashion makes meaningful long-lasting changes. Not just following a # for the shake of social media legitimacy. The industry talks the talk. But fall short when it comes to the walk.
The first fashion week in the “New Normal”, London Fashion Week goes digital. An event once exclusive to fashion insiders, LFW is now available to the public via Internet.
In comparison to the other fashion capitals, London’s beats the other cities with its experimentation, a quirky stance on style. Does this translate to digital? In a manner of speaking “no”. On screen, the awe value is lessened. The spectacle is not as spectacular.
Adding to this, he value of having fashion weeks comes into question as the industry faces pressure on many fronts. Magazines have lost relevance. Retailers are closing stores. Shoppers have cut back on none essential purchases.
I hope next year LFW goes live again.
I like this:
Looks from Kaushik Velendra
A veteran of Louis Vuitton, Daniel Fletcher interprets menswear and streetwear designs into minimalistic fluidity. Harry Styles wears his suits.
Stay tuned for my report on the chaos of 2 Fashion Weeks in Germany. What is happening? I had my problems with the organisers and some PR teams in Berlin about Fashion Week. I am not shocked about the exchanges on Social Media. A reality show delight! My reaction! See Below!
