Stay tuned for my report on the chaos of 2 Fashion Weeks in Germany. What is happening? I had my problems with the organisers and some PR teams in Berlin about Fashion Week. I am not shocked about the exchanges on Social Media. A reality show delight! My reaction! See Below!
From #Berlin & #Frankfurt, two #fashionweeks at the same time in 2021. Not Surprised by the chaos! #fashion #fashiondesigner #mbfwb #fashionblogger #fashionweek #fashionblogger #frankfurtfashionweek pic.twitter.com/VRUaJr8p1L
— BlackandPaper (@BlackandPaper1) June 12, 2020
The classic Aesop Fable of “The Ant and The Grasshopper” is about being prepared while the other played. Looking over the recent headlines, many have lived with the mentality of the Grasshopper. A complete lack of long term preparation for the winter. After only 30 days in lockdown many companies and brands have run out cash.
Publisher Conde Nast announced cut backs, salary cuts, and furloughs for employees. The company will request aid from governments of several countries. CEO Roger Lynch’s letter to employees states “financial pressures” with an “altered trajectory”. Advertisement buys have tried up. Titles Vogue, Vanity Fair, Details struggle in free fall as riders desert print magazines. Before the Coronavirus publishing houses were in trouble, a failing business model in the Digital Age. Will any magazines recover from the shutdown? Certainly many will disappear, fewer editions. I buy Vogue, however, I get the feeling the world will not be so aspirational desiring to wear latest Balmain look.
Today Victoria Beckham announced her fashion house will furlough all employees while applying for government aid! The UK taxpayer picks up 80% of her furloughed employees salaries. A smart and legal business move, but a bit galling. A few days ago the former Posh Spice and husband purchased a $20 million apartment in Miami.
I was thought to save for bad times. Keep 6 months saved up for a raining day. A Good Business practice, set aside money for a downturn. “Living The Best Years of My Life” translates “Live Now” because the Good Times last for ever. Live lavishly, display it all on social media.
Vicky carrying one of her many Birkin Bags. In February Vogue Editors stayed in Presidential Suites while attending Fashion Weeks. Reconciling this past lifestyle, suddenly asking for money.
When this pandemic comes to an end. The world will be a different place. One where “REALITY” is real.
The Coronavirus has changed every business in ways we have yet to digest. Business models will crash. In fashion, retail brick and mortar stores have struggled competing against online sales. The end is near for many storied chains. The crash in consumer demand will put the last nail in the coffin. Habits will change, malls will seem like relics of a past civilisation.
The print magazine is on its last leg. Carrie Bradshaw reading Vogue over coffee in a New York cafe was the stuff of fashionistas dreams. Collectors get your plastic wrap ready. 2020 will usher in the last print issues for many titles. Because retail stores have closed for the outbreak. Buying toilet paper and pasta has taken precedent over the latest Spring Kors bag. Many brands will stop buying ads. Because of high overheads, publishing houses will struggle with new rounds of cost cuts.
Influencers face a balancing act. The travel influencer field has collapsed, like the industry. Anyone want to buy a plane ticket today? Freebies with cut, copy, and paste, stories will begin to feel trivia. Brands will now employ tighter messaging to engage consumers in the troubled times. Daily doses of wannabes aspirations will feel out of place. Who cares about a daily selfie. It maybe time to get real job. The new real influencers are medical workers.
In a quick update. I wanted to mention the factories producing clothing. They have completely shutdown in many parts of the world.
From France 24 reports on Paris Fashion Week. This year Diversity took centre stage at the bi annual event.
There is always time for a Sparking Moment in Milan during Fashion Week.
Why are so many fashion journalist selling out? Because they want access. The same trend has been happening in mass journalism. Objectivity has become a dirty word. Life is easier to absorb the Press Release. A designer makes a mediocre or bad collection, a soft critique or bad review is not allowed. Instead there is a sort of praise. Sometimes it feels like lipstick on a pig. Losing the front row, banished to a second row is a glamor don’t.
When a certain NY Times fashion writer labels a designer “this generations,,,,,” I know we are in trouble. Of course pandering comes with the territory. But there are limits. Even if the label buys ad pages. Or has a lot of followers.
As fashion magazines and writers continue to lose sway over the industry they are becoming more desperate to stay relevant. When once a few editors decided on trends, the fashion hierarchy is chasing them. All leaders cling on until the end.
The low down on Paris Fashion Week, France 24 gives all the details.
I met Flora Cusi during Milan Fashion Week in September 19. The young bag designer debuted her new bag collection and brand, Yosono, to press and buyers. Engaging with new designers is always exciting because of the enthusiasm. Lastly, the chance to watch the person grow is rewarding. I hope she makes it.
I met Flora Cusi during Milan Fashion Week in September 19. The young bag designer debuted her new bag collection and brand, Yosono, to press and buyers. Engaging with new designers is always exciting because of the enthusiasm. Lastly, the chance to watch the person grow is rewarding. I hope she makes it.
When I saw Alexander McQueen on the Milan Fashion Week Men, of course I made the trek to minimum studio space. I must admit I do not wear the brand. But the brand’s expressive statement wear has influenced on the fashion world.
Now, this collection was about suit for Fall 20. An interpretation of suits, work jumpsuits, and jackets.
When I arrived in Milan at the Malpensa Airport terminal I did not expect a scene from the “X-Files”. Global headlines have caught up to me. From head to toe wearing Hazmats, health officials were testing for the Coronavirus with digital thermometers. Welcome to Fashion Week. The week got even more interesting. My journey on the subway and trams. I suspected something was off when I got a seat on the subway. Sadly, the last two days of the fashion, the feeling became grim. Trade-fare visitors were sparse. Many exhibitors seemed more rejected lonely hearts club guests.
On the 23rdall Milan Fashion Week events were cancelled due to an outbreak north of Milan.
On Via Manzoni, Antonio Croce presented a collection based on the Southern California Sunset. What inspiration! I loved the strong sensuality. Sun drenched coats and suits and print coats filled the space.
When a fashion show opens up with the Italian Version of Lou Reed’s 1973 classic song “Walk on the Wild Side”. I should count on 70′ interpretations. I am a fan of Bea Arthur’s sitcom “Maude”. Her Finley character wore floor length vests. Cividini had a look in his collection inspired by this decade staple piece.
I do not associate Kiton with strong women’s looks. It is a brand known for suits and classic wears. The brand’s new bag has a BIG K on the opening clasp. A comment I heard, “Those who buy Kiton may not like such blatant monogramming items designed for social media. The sales will see. But there was one look I really liked for a Red Carpet styling, a two piece white pleated dress with sleeveless top.
A come back kid in the making could be Untied Colors of Benetton. The once household RTW brand has been knocked about over many years. With Jean Charles Castelbajac at the creative helm it looks there are some better more social media smart moves happening.
For sheer impressive theater, Fratelli Rossetti really went out the way to give an extra mile. At the Visconti Palace with models dressed in white on stage and trampolines with an added Piano Concert. PS, I want a pair of the embroided Brea shoes.
Stay Tuned for more coverage on Milan Fashion Week.