Categories
Fashion

Has Luxury Fashion Come To This?

At the end of 2024, the Luxury Fashion Industry finds itself in a major predicament of its own making. Consumers have caught onto the game, now brands are bracing for the backlash. Buyers are no longer charmed by the “expensive” handbag and other accessories with sky high price tag.

The recent headlines report shopper fatigue for luxury goods. When a major newspaper reads “Death Spiral of Luxury Fashion” there is a big problem. In lock corporate step, houses evolved in Overpriced Zaras, neglecting quality for quantity, big fast profit over long term customer loyalty. Speaking to a colleague concerning these issues, he told a story of buyer’s remorse of people complaining about a certain top tier brand’s handbag coming apart at the seams after a few months of carriage.

It will be an interesting 2025 to see if the Luxury Fashion can regain its footing or continue on# a downward spiral. Only time will tell.

Categories
Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Men Gives Good Face

Milan mens fashion is not only about style. The guys give at the presentation give good face. It will be a pleasure to cover the menswear event again this winter.

Milan Fashion Week starts January 17th.

Categories
Fashion

The Fashion Musical Chair

The Fashion Musical Chairs Contest continue.  In one week, three brands made big changes.  Thankfully, I have a chalkboard to help keep up with who is where, just erase then add a new name.

When John Galliano took over as Creative Head of Martin Margiela, the British designer had come in from the cold after being ousted from Dior.  Ten years later the partnership has ended.  After months of rumors, Mr. Galliano announced his resignation from the Paris House.  Admittedly sad news, the 64-year-old brought a creative romanticism to the label.  The runway shows were fantasy run from surreal to vintage sumptuous fantasy of diverse materials.  There was no announcement on where John Galliano will go.  Perhaps, his own label or retire, we have to wait and see.

Margiela

Chanel finally announced a new head six months after Virginie Viard’s exit.  The uber luxury brand named Matthieu Blazy as the new creative head.  Coming from Bottega Veneta, Bailey will be in charge of ten collections a year.  I see a lot of energy drinks in the Belgium born designer’s future.  Chanel is more than a brand but a cultural tentpole for fashion and style.  How will Blazy interrupt the classic Tweed Jacket?   Recently, the Chanel runway shows have lacked the grand pageantry typical under Lagerfeld, possibly, the dull period in the Grand Palais is over.

As one designer leaves, another enters, Bottega Veneta placed Louise Trotter as Matthieu Blazy’s replacement.  Coming from Carven, a brand known for oversized looks and exaggeration, Trotter’s view with Italian Tailoring should be interesting. 

Fashion is about change.

Categories
Fashion

Fabulously Applying the Same Remedy.

In the “Here We Go Again” category, another month, another headline on layoffs at the big publishing houses.  It is hard to imagine who will be left to write about a perfume review. It is hard to see just how many more staff members can be fired from a company becomes dysfunctional. Applying the same not working remedy for the same long term illness has not worked.

First, Hearst, the Eight Avenue headquartered publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan announced 200 employees would be fired.  President Debi Chirichella gave the usual excuse of allocating resources to support goals, etc. The reality is the company may employ A.I. to produce articles.  Hearst’s flagship title Harper’s Bazaar will publish one less print edition next year, from ten to nine.

The second announcement of fashion magazines meltdown came from Conde Nast.  The collection of prestigious magazines released underperforming financial figures.  On Thursday December 5th, GQ heads rolled along with other workers.  Last year Group leader Roger Lynch fired 5% of the staff, decamped to cheaper digs in London and New York City while trying to pivot to digital realms. Claiming ad buys are down, costs are up, the Vogue owner is seeking new bottom line cuts.

Plush Meltdown

As this plush content calamity happens, the great survivor Anna Wintour continues with the title Chief Content Officer over several titles. The simple question is, why? The strategy of jettisoned international editors has failed, one template for all local versions has failed.  Editors are now working across multiple titles and platforms.  What made Vogue magazines unique has become as exciting as eating at a global fast-food chain. Conde Nast became a sinking brand extension of Wintour.

Hearst and Conde Nast are going to have to search for new ideas as 2025 looks to be difficult year with conflicts, consumer pressures and business cutbacks. Will the once uncontested style gate keepers be relevant? Dinosaurs existed until one day they did not.

Categories
Technology Travel

Back to the Camera

After using mobile phone cameras for coverage, the decision has been made to go back to using a photographic camera. Do not get it wrong, phone cameras are convenient, handy but the disadvantages are numerous. Foremost, the battery life is limited.  After a few hours of producing pictures and videos, suddenly one bar on the screen.  Additionally, mobile phone batteries have to be replaced. 

Secondly, the numerous creative options on photography cameras are expansive. The presets there are many image techniques for a shoot and in post-production. Plus, the images are just sharper.  For a lowlight fashion show, cameras have more optimal settings.   

   

Categories
Fashion Feature

Two More Down,,,

Fashion Week month just ended, but the news from the style capitals keeps coming. First, the shock announcement of Hedi Silmane leaving French House Celine after seven years took the industry by surprise. The Paris born designer revitalised the womenswear label with youthful designs. Parent company LVMH released a statement reading Michael Rider will replace Hedi.

Milan’s Missoni issued a statement that Filippo Grazioli exited. Known for knightwear, Missoni returned to the runway schedule two years where Filippo debut a colorful, well received collection for the family owned label. Alberto Caliri has been named as the replacement.

It is hard to believe there was a time when designer had longevity sitting at the top of the pyramid. Those days have passed the same as shopping at a Sears Department Store in a local mall. There is better job security as an UBER driver than being a fashion creative head.

Categories
Fashion

The First Impressions, Paris

For some reason Paris Fashion Week felt a bit desperate for attention this season.  Pandering is never good.   In the crowded landscape designers are under pressure to get that viral moment to stand above the rest. For this reason, some collections looked disjointed, a circle in a square peg.  Creatively, the City of Lights fashion scene has become overly vulnerable to smartphone scrolling.

Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week Valentino

The big news, Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino.  The stage setting fitting for the Rome born designer: dreams and romance. That was the problem.  Valentino was a brand of refined elitism. Jackie O to Joan Collins, the Jet Set Crowd wore the label as an emblem of being in a certain club.  Alessandro’s collection, while lush, comes across as garish compared to the house’s past styles.  While in doubt of the 51-year-old talent, his Gucci era heavily influenced looks on the runway.  It is no secret Kering Group invested in the house, perhaps a way to challenge Louis Vuitton in the uber luxury brand category, however, as soft luxury is trending with shoppers, why did they allow Alessandro to drive the opposite direction?  

Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week Balenciaga

Demna at Balenciaga continues to challenge what makes fashion, fashion. The French label is popular with young buyers.  The oversized sneakers were a must have for anyone under twenty-five.  The giant logo on shirts worked in the Selfie Age.  In 2024 the Georgian born returned to what he did best.  Oversized jackets that belong on a lifeboat and baggy jeans were runway staples.  Inner wear for the night, perfect for going to the 1920’s KitKat club. Do these looks work with young people looking for the lowest price on an app? Only the book keepers at Balenciaga know the answer.

Stay tuned for more fashion weeks coverage and more episodes of the Before Tacky Podcast.

Categories
Fashion

A Fashion Crisis At Hand

The fashion crisis is at hand. When journalist from major publications start sounding the bell over the lack of creativity on the recent runways, there are big problems. What took them so long to see the trees? For years the head in the sand was the modus operandi in the glamorous circles of Milan, Paris, New York and London. Corporations could squeeze designers dry with as many as eight to ten collections a year. When the creative is dry, on the next one. Corporate heads needed shows to sell everything from over priced hand bags to perfumes. Social media’s inexhaustible need for flashy images contributed to fashion’s current tango on the cliffside. Influencers came cheap, while cheapened the value of once aspirational brands.

The fashion world will have fewer cheek to cheek kisses in the coming months.

Fashion Crisis
Dana Thomas Newsletter Headline
Categories
Fashion

Spring 2025 Fashion Week Reviews

Of course we have not forgotten Fashion Week during Tech Month. Going over the looks is always a pleasure. Look for our reviews and Before Tacky Podcast soon.

Categories
Fashion

Vivid From LA

Streetwear fashion label BruceGlen has an expressive take on streetwear. The Los Angeles based brand goes for vivid looks. I met twin brothers Bruce and Glen Proctor at the Milan Fashion Week Hub while the duo were showing some of the expressive pieces. Are these pieces a person would wear everyday? Who cares! As they said, “It’s about fun.”