Yoshiki had a presentation at Paris Fashion Week. The musician showed his 2024 collection of kimonos and other pieces. What does the musician think of fashion?
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Tag: Fashion Week
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The Trend for 24
From New York to London to Milan and now Paris, there is a trend. After reviewing fashion weeks looks and pieces for Spring 24, there is definitely a change happening. Wearable styles without selfie friendly monograms are charging down the runways.
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Gucci Reset
Gucci performed a reset this season at Milan Fashion Week. After the ouster of creative head Alessandro Michele, Naples born Sabato De Sarno took the lead of the legendary fashion house.
Less bling, more sexy chic looks hit the runway with looks based on feminine seduction. Parent company Kering sounded alarm bells as sales slipped in key markets. Buyers no longer wanted flashy, but rather low-key pieces. For the past fourteen years, Gucci pieces were about a conspicuous style. A part of the, “Hey, Look at Me wearing something expensive” fashion label group along with Balenciaga and Dolce&Gabbana.
Will this new direction restart the struggling brand? Can buyers wrap their heads around Gucci’s Ancora less is more looks of mini and leather skirts along with jewelled tops? We have to wait for this spring.
Stay tuned for Before Tacky, our podcast on fashion news and reviews.
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A Style History
The history of wearing a hat and why from Simone at Borsalino Milan.
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Fashion Reviews
Fashion Season is here with the big runway shows from the capital cities of style showing off their newest collections.
Looking over the designs, we have some opinions. Before Tacky is coming soon.
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Quiet As It Goes
Monograms are out. Quiet and soft are in. Fall 2023 has arrived, the looks for the up coming season focuses on not being a walking fashion brand billboard. The exact time of this style transformation escapes me but be warned, having BALENCIAGA on your chest is déclassé.
Menswear returned to a more classical approach. Gender fluidity trended on the catwalk, but sales became another matter. Guys are retreating to what they wear best. As Gucci and other disciples of showing it off looked for creative heads, the under the radar quiet brands have hit the mark with shoppers.
Superstar Yoshiki and Pommery Champagne held a launch event in Berlin at the top of the Waldorf Astoria. The musician collaborated with the house for a luxury sparkling wine based on his passion for bubbly.
For this Before Tacky episode we spoke to Japanese musician about when he drinks Champagne and some quick words on fashion
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Pharrell on the Paris Catwalk
Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection debuted on a spectacular scale. The Pont Neuf bridge was the setting for the musician, now a full-time fashion designer, to show off his version of luxury looks. Virigil Abhloh’s death left a big hole to fill. When the Virginia native was made head of the famed house in February, eyebrows hit the ceiling. Williams’ limited experience and lack of training felt a bit out of sync with the demands needed to be a creative head. The multi-nominated artist has street cred with his label, Billionaire Boys Club. The streetwear brand is celebrating its 20th anniversary.
Going to a fashion show in some cases is not about the fashion but about who is attending. Jay Z and Beyonce sat next to LVMH head Bernard Arnault. LV brand ambassador Rhianna hit the front row with baby bump and husband A$AP Rocky. Throw in supermodel Naomi Campbell, singer Lenny Kravitz, actress Zendaya. It pays to have famous friends, add in all the resources a $20 billion corporation with the Paris landscape as a backdrop, a choir, band and symphony, this event was spectacle worthy of Imperial Rome.
Looking over the numerous looks strutting over the Seine River, suddenly I had flashbacks to downtown Los Angeles. There was a guy who sold who sold fake designer clothing from the back of a truck. If a buyer wanted to try on the pieces, the alley way was the changing room. All transactions were cash only, no questions asked.
Not a Capsule Collection
Granted, Pharrell had only had three months to put together a collection. Looking over the pictures from June 20th, I saw recycled archives with new colors along with a homage to 90’s Ghetto Fabulousness. The absence of subtlety and lack of elegance struck because buyers want quiet luxury, toned down pieces of high quality. Secondly, there was no demonstrative style longevity with this collection. A fashion creative head needs authenticity, not the feeling of a capsule collection collaboration produced for a quick trip to the bank.
A person could be forgiven for thinking they were watching a garish indoctrination ritual. Logomania took over the catwalk in every color, shape and size, from bags and trunks to leather track suits with prints, suits with square patterns, pixel prints and knee length shorts with jackets.
I am willing to give Pharrell a second chance to reevaluate. Perhaps he will grow into the job. If not, the hit song maker still has his first career as a fallback.
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WHAT IS IT?
Balenciaga. Balenciaga. Cristobal’s influential namesake brand was once a trailblazer of inspiring silhouettes and shapes. Today, not so sure what to make of the Paris label.
The Shoulder Glove Bag is another gimmick to stand out. Ugly is my word for leather that more like a costume from a Talking Heads video.
Demma Gvasalia continues to head the social media favorite luxury design house at a time when his contemporaries colleagues at Gucci and Moschino have exited. Wondering here, is gimmicky fashion in fashion? $4,250 for an over the awkward top accessory seems a bit out of place. Is it just me!
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Logomania is OUT!
The end of an era, actually, a recycled trend that started a few years ago Logomania has moved from being Bling Chic to feeling dated. As the world continues to grapple with Covid and the Ukraine War, showing off a luxury purchase with a giant emblazoned logo seems a bit out of touch.
I remember when the latest craze of Logomania started thanks to social media. The Fake It At Any Cost culture went digital global on sharing platforms. First time luxury buyers not only wanted to show off their new affluence they wanted to flaunt the wealth. At times, the over do it styling became clownish. Classic, understated looks be darned.
Notice
Almost every fashion presentation or show I attended, it was the same plan, Go Big, Get Noticed. Fashion brands scrambled to redesign collections as well brand logos to get noticed. Influencers taking endless selfies accompanied with their latest purchases of an envied lifestyle dominated Instagram. Becoming a a living billboard was what fashion was all about for the past six years. Going to certain runway shows invitees would dress head to toe, as if attending a cult gathering, in a brand’s trademark symbol.
The was the fastest industry wide “What’s In Today, Out Tomorrow” shift I’d experience. Scalps were claimed. Recently, Michele’s exit from Gucci and Scott’s departure from Moschino are signals of the shift. A new reality has dawned of job uncertainty and energy crisis. The all-over Balenciga logo looks are out like latest The Shazam Movie.
As a very part time stylist and editor, a bit of relief because I never embraced paying a lot of money advertising a luxury brand. I was taught when it comes to fashion, notice me, then the clothes.
As I have said, there is a reason why images of classic styles are eternal, not because of a logo.