2024 is the year where less is more, nothing over the top. This gift guide is about keeping it down to Earth with style. Do not spend a fortune to give something nice this Christmas.
Tag: Fashion
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The Fashion Musical Chair
The Fashion Musical Chairs Contest continue. In one week, three brands made big changes. Thankfully, I have a chalkboard to help keep up with who is where, just erase then add a new name.
When John Galliano took over as Creative Head of Martin Margiela, the British designer had come in from the cold after being ousted from Dior. Ten years later the partnership has ended. After months of rumors, Mr. Galliano announced his resignation from the Paris House. Admittedly sad news, the 64-year-old brought a creative romanticism to the label. The runway shows were fantasy run from surreal to vintage sumptuous fantasy of diverse materials. There was no announcement on where John Galliano will go. Perhaps, his own label or retire, we have to wait and see.
Chanel finally announced a new head six months after Virginie Viard’s exit. The uber luxury brand named Matthieu Blazy as the new creative head. Coming from Bottega Veneta, Bailey will be in charge of ten collections a year. I see a lot of energy drinks in the Belgium born designer’s future. Chanel is more than a brand but a cultural tentpole for fashion and style. How will Blazy interrupt the classic Tweed Jacket? Recently, the Chanel runway shows have lacked the grand pageantry typical under Lagerfeld, possibly, the dull period in the Grand Palais is over.
As one designer leaves, another enters, Bottega Veneta placed Louise Trotter as Matthieu Blazy’s replacement. Coming from Carven, a brand known for oversized looks and exaggeration, Trotter’s view with Italian Tailoring should be interesting.
Fashion is about change.
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Fabulously Applying the Same Remedy.
In the “Here We Go Again” category, another month, another headline on layoffs at the big publishing houses. It is hard to imagine who will be left to write about a perfume review. It is hard to see just how many more staff members can be fired from a company becomes dysfunctional. Applying the same not working remedy for the same long term illness has not worked.
First, Hearst, the Eight Avenue headquartered publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan announced 200 employees would be fired. President Debi Chirichella gave the usual excuse of allocating resources to support goals, etc. The reality is the company may employ A.I. to produce articles. Hearst’s flagship title Harper’s Bazaar will publish one less print edition next year, from ten to nine.
The second announcement of fashion magazines meltdown came from Conde Nast. The collection of prestigious magazines released underperforming financial figures. On Thursday December 5th, GQ heads rolled along with other workers. Last year Group leader Roger Lynch fired 5% of the staff, decamped to cheaper digs in London and New York City while trying to pivot to digital realms. Claiming ad buys are down, costs are up, the Vogue owner is seeking new bottom line cuts.
Plush Meltdown
As this plush content calamity happens, the great survivor Anna Wintour continues with the title Chief Content Officer over several titles. The simple question is, why? The strategy of jettisoned international editors has failed, one template for all local versions has failed. Editors are now working across multiple titles and platforms. What made Vogue magazines unique has become as exciting as eating at a global fast-food chain. Conde Nast became a sinking brand extension of Wintour.
Hearst and Conde Nast are going to have to search for new ideas as 2025 looks to be difficult year with conflicts, consumer pressures and business cutbacks. Will the once uncontested style gate keepers be relevant? Dinosaurs existed until one day they did not.
Pitti Uomo 2025 starts January 14th in Florence Italy. The bi-annual menswear fashion trade fair showcases brands, style and trends from around the world. The fashion world faces strong headwinds as economies slow down, consumers cut back and geo-politics rattle business. During a Zoom Call with Director of Communication Lapo Cianchi, the head gave one word, “Unpredictable” is the general outlook in the fashion world. The frank honesty was welcomed. The business model for fashion trade show is being called into question. Since Covid, the attendance numbers have not recovered. Even so, Pitti Uomo is a special gathering for men’s fashion lovers.
With over 800 exhibitors signed, this upcoming apparel forum is an important event on the calendar. MM6 from French house Maison Margiela hits the runway with “do not follow the rules” looks. The other designer on the calendar, Satoshi Kuwata, comes to Tuscany with his label Setchu. According to the brand’s web page “a fusion of two cultures” is the basis of the gender-neutral aesthetic.
Fashion and lifestyle concepts continue to evolve and merge. Concepts of Community and Active Style of Living have emerged as consumers push more into experiences over brand linkage. Producers, buyers and creatives seek shared passions with communal relationships and passions for the same ideas and values.
Knees Up, a new concept store centered around Marathon enthusiasts has a prominent role at Pitti Uomo. The popular retail space located in East London offers fashion, coffee, sportswear and a place to recover from physical training. Several athletic brands will exhibit with the first-time headliner in Fortezza da Basso.
The same questions linger, but have become more obvious. As customers move away from well-known masstige labels, will retailers take a chance on small brands? Perhaps in these rattled times, a small bet can pay back big returns.
Of course, we expect the traditional Dandy pageantry in the center courtyard.
Pitti Uomo starts January 14th until 17th in Florence Italy.
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The 47th Influencer
The Donald Trump influence on Fashion and Masculinity will be felt in the fashion industry. Professionals should not underestimate the influence of a President’s outlook on style. John F. Kennedy’s inauguration, the President went hatless on a cold January day, that styling decision placed a once accessory staple to the back of the men’s closet for a generation. Men dropped the headwear. Of course, his First Lady who needs no introduction, Jackie, is a timeless fashion icon.
This election could mark an unexpected shift in many ways. People turned away from mass media for opinions. Mainstream channels took a credibility hit. Not only did they get it wrong by a September Issue Size Vogue issue, television commentators could not hide the disbelief on live television. The fashion press misread voter sentiments, publications placed a bet on the wrong horse, then lost. What does that say about their insight? No amount of deflection or no comments can cover up the scale of this pubic misread. After putting Kamala Harris on numerous covers, no one expects Head Editor in charge Anna Wintour to have a public make up phone call to Melania Trump.
Creative directors will need a rethink over the next months and years. Since the term “gender” became a political toxin, consumers may move away from gender free fashion, out of style. Sure, the houses can produce it. Who will buy the collections outside of four stores in NYC and SF? The marketing and messaging will take a different course. Companies are ditching DEI initiatives faster than a Shein can copy a runway look. Bottom line decisions trump social movements in boardrooms. The 47th Unites States leader’s 75 million voters are too big a market to ignore.
There could be a silver lining, style hope. Brands could become counter reactionary, more underground. The Gap was born in the counter culture of San Francisco. The Mini Skirt shock off the feminine rigidity of the fifties.
The 47th head of the United States will leave an imprint on the way we dress, like or not.
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That Style in a Bowie Video
Rock superstar David Bowie wore a yellow suit in his 1983 music video single Modern Love. Everyone puts on black or brown. Only a confident man could wear this color and pull it off with such a level of finesse. After watching the concert performing video many times, this hue has been on my Style Bucket List for a long time. It’s time to cross this off the slate. With my fingers crossed for Spring 2025, I’ll be rocking like a legend.
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Time For The Fall Jacket Style
Adding an edgy touch to a Fall Wardrobe is easy just by wearing the right jacket.
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All Gussied Up
At the recent press events I attended, noticing the fashion tribe I wondered. Why do they wear everything but the frying pan? Many were gussied up wearing all the labels from their shelves popping in and out of offices and showrooms. I wondered if there had been a looting at a luxury department store. The pride of being kitsch while not understand the meaning of the word scares me.
Chanel’s quote is, “The last thing you put on, take off.” This has been lost on the Kill for TikTok crowd. When at one time anyone with an eye could see quality and style, in today’s social media driven world standing out as if you were the Oscar Mayer Weiner Mobile at a 4th of July Parade means everything.
It is sad to look dated after only two hours. A great style is eternal. Jackie O never wore a brand emblazoned on her chest. Before Covid, around 2018, many fashion houses redesigned logos to take advantage of the camera phone ratio in an attempt to attract younger buyers. Monogramed mania took over the fashion industry. Every piece had to display a name.
The world had been hit with a name brand sledgehammer. The influencers, TikTokers wear everything all at once. This embellishment veers to pathological bad taste. Imagine stuck in a room with a person who has a big Louis Vuitton bag, Chanel glasses, oversized Balenciaga sneakers and a shinning Gucci jacket. I needed a certified CPA degree to track all the names. How many of these items were fake? No clue!
The shift to subtle fashion has taken place, however I do not think it has made its way to the younger crowd. “Bling” is still a way of life, showing off for the camera. Thankfully, kitchen items do not have a YSL monogram on the side.
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Naturally Dazzling
It’s always a privilege to attend the Boucheron presentation in Paris during Couture Week. The luxury jewel brand’s media gathering in July served up dazzling beats of precious stone designs. In the Vendome head office, creative head Claire Choisne describe the pieces as influenced from her trip to Iceland. The island’s wondrous landscape shaped by water, ice, waves and volcanic terrain provided inspiration to the French native. Travel can be a story in different forms.
Fashion Week month just ended, but the news from the style capitals keeps coming. First, the shock announcement of Hedi Silmane leaving French House Celine after seven years took the industry by surprise. The Paris born designer revitalised the womenswear label with youthful designs. Parent company LVMH released a statement reading Michael Rider will replace Hedi.
Milan’s Missoni issued a statement that Filippo Grazioli exited. Known for knightwear, Missoni returned to the runway schedule two years where Filippo debut a colorful, well received collection for the family owned label. Alberto Caliri has been named as the replacement.
It is hard to believe there was a time when designer had longevity sitting at the top of the pyramid. Those days have passed the same as shopping at a Sears Department Store in a local mall. There is better job security as an UBER driver than being a fashion creative head.