Tag: Fashion

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Fashion

Fashion Designer Pedro Pedro

Pedro Pedro

Pedro Pedro attended the Academia de Moda do Porto before creating his own brand in 1998.  He is the winner of the I Mode European Fashion Awards 03 in Brussels.    Pedro Pedro looks have been featured in Vogue, Elle, and Collezione Dona.

For his 2017 collection Pedro Pedro held a runway show during Milan Fashion Week.    He gave the Black and Paper an interview after to describe the collection and his inspirations.

The opening pieces were breezing then moved to muted tones, why?

The theme was all about a David Lynch movie named “Dune”, and it’s located in a post apocalypse world dominated by a great desert, so that’s why it goes to sandy shades of beige and pastel colors.

Being from Portugal, how does this influence your outlook on clothing?

We are living in a Global Age where the information flow is the same for everybody, access to the same news and images at the same time.   So maybe my approach to a particular theme is as particular as me being part of this country, Portuguese sensibility of style.

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What was the design approach?

I think the theme asked for this kind of approach, usually I like to show a cooler, looser shape and this time I went further with adding asymmetrical details in a fluid and softer materials.

Soft feminine looks were central to the collections, do you feel woman are moving away from gender neutral looks?

I am big fan of mixing gender and I always have a masculine approach into my designs. Mostly there are some tailored coats, parkas and trousers that can be ambiguous.

There were no accessories this season, all was clean.

There were some styling effects with basic bags designed by me and a partnership with shoes manufactures, those were also designed by me.

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Fashion

Cristiano Burani Collection for Spring 2017 from Milan Fashion Week

for more information go to:http://www.cristianoburani.it/

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Fashion Interview

Interview with Cristiano Burani

Cristiano Burani is a Milan based designer of head of his eponymous label. Known for his use of vibrant colors in his collections, Burani studied fashion design at New York City’s Parson.  He has worked for Versace Jeans Couture before moving to Blumarine.  His first collection debuted in 2010 in Milan with the support of Vogue Italia and Camera Nazionale della Mode Italiana.

Cristiano gave an interview to Black and Paper after his Spring/Summer 2017 collection fashion show.

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Your collection went from dazzling stripes to a sophisticated suit, (Look 34) why?cristiano-burani_ful_w_s17_mi_034My fashion show is about the expression of the same woman in different times of her life, from day wear to holiday to evening cocktail. I like the idea of being eclectic and switching from casual to “elegant”, always with cool attitude.

What inspired the collection’s theme?

The Collection is inspired by my love and sensibility for colors. There is a combination of sporty details together with feminine shapes layered with a lot of technology in the new pleated and over printed fabrics.

When a woman wears a look from this collection does she want to get noticed?

A woman wearing my collection doesn’t necessarily want to be noticed. She has consciously decided to wear unique and exclusive pieces entirely made in Italy, with a semi couture process.  That is what makes all the looks so special.ter

What was the material used for looks 11 to 15? 

The material used for the two plain outfits is viscose chenille. I like the idea of using leisure fabrics for a suit which are between smoking jacket looks and pajamas but with a sporty reference.

The oversize belts are a great detail, how did you develop those?

The oversized belts are another sport reference. They are entirely stitched by hands using grosgrain ribbons of various different widths.

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Fashion

Le Bon Marche Paris

Paris is the capitol of shopping so of course it would be home to the first department store, Le Bon Marche.   Housed in a building from the 19th century that on the left bank near Blvd St. Germain,  Le Bon Marche is the most boutique like Grand Magasin in the city showcasing established as well as new designers.  For avid shoppers this place is inspiring with so much charm.

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Fashion

Margiela Collection Spring 2017

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Fashion

Martin Margiela Spring 2017

Martin Margiela, the fashion worlds deconstructionist Garbo because of his aversion to interviews and being photographed launched his house in 1988.   The Royal Academy of Arts graduate rejected fashion as a luxury form but instead used vintage and old materials incorporated into new looks and designs.  The historical aesthetic of this brand is about pick and mix with forms.

John Galliano has been the Creative Director of the label since 2015.  I admit it, I was excited when it was announced Mr. Galliano would take the helm of the brand, a perfect match of the whimsical combined with different elements of inspirations.  Both the house and its new head were not afraid to play with proportions or fabrics; there was the mutual history of exploration.

When it was confirmed I could see the Spring-2017 collection up close and personal it was a dream come true.  I saw the details, touched the material, it gave me real appreciation of the collection.  For me, the transparent blouse was great.  There were pieces inspired by backpacks; skirts with broken pieces of CD’s and interpretations of the classic trench coat were other highlights.

Margiela has always been a label with a certain style, but still endures.

A BIG THANK YOU to the Margiela Team.

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Fashion

German Press Days for Spring 2017

German Press Days in Berlin for the presentation of the Spring 2017 collections.

Shoes and Sneakers

Menswear

Womenswear

Accessories

I used the new Huawei Nova Smartphone during the presentations.  See my upcoming review on the device.

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Fashion

Agnes B. at Paris Fashion Week

Agnes B. stayed true to form with her Spring 2017.  The looks had a coquette feeling of a lady taking a leisurely walk along the Seine River.  Leather skirts with soft sweaters, sheer, and pajama looks all combined for a soft retro influenced collection.

Highlights:

 

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Fashion

Paris Fashion Week from France 24

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Fashion Interview Music Theater

THE ONE Grand Show with Gaultier in Berlin

"The One" Grand Show at Friedrich Stadt Palast.Berlin, 28.09.2016.

THE ONE Grand Show

French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier has arrived in Berlin collaborating with the Friedrichstadt-Palast for the stage show The ONE Grand Show.   Opening October 6, the 11 million euros spectacular show features performers from 26 nations with 500 costumes on the world’s largest stage. Director and writer Roland Welke is the creative force behind “THE ONE Grand Show” employing streams of images in the form of slow motion effects, cross fades, and multi-dimension effects.  The show is nothing if not ambitious on all levels from staging to the physical movements and acrobatics of the performers.

Starring German Eurovision Song Contest representative Roman Lob as the young party guest and Brigette Oelke from the musical “We Will Rock You” in the role of the theatre manager THE ONE Grand Show  is packed with tunes from Kate Victoria and Gregor Meyle.

I sat for a preview press performance of THE ONE Grand Show in Berlin.    The costumes were classic Gaultier albeit a little toned down, with eye catching looks filled with, counter culture sexuality mixed with  plaid men’s kilts, conical bras, Breton stripes, panel, nude toned body suits,  and iconic corsets.  A perfect combination of dancers and Gaultier, the former understood the fluidity and fun of the creations by the Parisian couturier without being dominated by them, not an easy feat but they pulled off.

I admit it.  I wanted to see the costumes from Mr. Gaultier and they did disappoint.  Androgyny, a wide color palette all infused the stage like a field of butterflies.  I would not say the looks were provocative for 2016 but titillating for mainstream audiences, pure eye candy delight.   There are so many signature looks it is a bit difficult to include them all but the ones that stood out were: Red conned dress with red hairstyles, the nude tones on the male dancers, colored splashed suit, and of course the feathered outfits.   If you are a John Paul Gaultier fan you will not be disappointed.

THE ONE Grand Show is currently at the Friedrichstadt-Palast in Berlin.

Images by Vladimir Sichov.