From Paris Fashion Week July 2024, some images from our visit in the city.
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Paris Fashion Week Goes On
Tag: Fashion
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Is Paris the Same Place?
Traveling to Paris for Fashion Week can come across as glamour meets pretentious. However, for this visit, clothing was front and center. We hit some shows, but decided to focus on behind the scenes by getting the low down on the business and trends. Designers, press relations and stores gave us opinions on topics ranging from shopping experiences to the quiet luxury shift. The industry is going through some changes.
Black and Paper participated in the London editorial fashion production with designer Alan Scott featuring his eponymous label featured in “Cutting Edge” issue of High Volt Magazine. Actress, model Eugenia Kuzmina and photographer filmmaker Darren Vukasinovic captured the atmosphere of the dockside in the capital city.
The iconic fashion designer gets his own bio-series on Disney+. Karl Lagerfeld was nothing if not a flamboyant mega-talent. The German born figure took no prisoners in his larger than life voyage to the top of the fashion world.
Daniel Bruhl stars in Becoming Lagerfeld, available today.
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On Change in Fashion
Change is inevitable, in the fashion business, change is often. The news from New York took the industry by surprise. Calvin Klein announced the appointment of Veronica Leoni as creative head, the female to lead he label. The brand plans to return to the runway schedule. Why this change of strategy? Parent company owner PVH withdrew the fifty-six-year-old designer brand from the ready-to-wear runway shows, instead focusing on the label’s core sellers, underwear and jeans.
Little is known about Leoni other than the Italian designer worked for Celine and Jil Sander. Calvin Klein was once the crown of the fashion world with is minimal sensuality built around youth. Can Veronica Leoni bring the buzz back to an once New York Fashion Week marque? Curious choices are interesting.
The other news of the day report came from Paris. The Grand Dame of fashion labels released a statement stating Virginie Viard would resign as head of the Paris based house. After five years at the position inherited from Karl Lagerfeld. After 30 years with the brand Virginie’s stay comes to an end. What was the reason? Chanel plays its hand close to its chest. There were no rumors of strife or lower sales. The company recently paid big dividends to its owners.
However, Viard has some big shoes to fill. The larger-than-life Lagerfeld left his mark on the prestigious womenswear line. His magnificent shows, the sardonic wit filled pages of fashion reports. While The headline adverse French born designer was competent the grandiose excitement seemed missing. The airport runway sets or the multimillion-dollar celebrity commercials disappeared after 2019. After all, Chanel is really about classy sensations.
It is only halfway through 2024.
Today, I got back my repaired Nudie Jeans. That was fast, the hole got repaired. Better than going out buying a new pair. Here is hoping these last a few more years with a lot of wear.
To buy a pair of jeans or use the free repair service, the Nudie Jeans store is located at Memhardstrasse 7, Berlin.
A few questions to ask. Today it is hard to answer because of media overload and desperate attention seeking.
What is ELEGANCE in 2024?
Why does modern style lack NUANCE?
Has glamour become a CIRCUS?
Is fashion inspiring or SILLY?
What’s the definition of Celebrity OVEREXPOSURE?
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Met Gala’s Garden
The Met Gala happened yesterday. The ultimate “LOOK AT ME “Red Carpet ceremony went off without a hitch after brokering a last-minute deal averting a strike involving NewsGuild members of Conde Nast employees. Anna Wintour took center stage. The Vogue head has transformed the event into the most important annual fashion ritual on the calendar with global celebrities and business tycoons attending.
This year’s theme “Garden of Time” was inspired by JG Ballard with hosts Jennifer Lopez, Bad Bunny, Chris Hemsworth and Zendaya. The dress code inspiration centered on nature with proceeds going to the Costume Institute.
Admittingly, this year’s looks were striking. The designers got the memo, then went to work.
Way ahead of the pack, Cardi B., the rapper took over the scene with a more means more black strapless look.
Zendaya is the Modern Queen of the Red Carpet, no argument on this end. The Dune star decided to have two looks for the night by Maison Margiela.
According to Vogue Gigi Hadid’s dress White Rose dress took 13,500 hours to create. The Thom Browne creation is a mix of satin and silk moire with thorn appliques and the off the shoulder corset.
Gwendoline Christie in a Masion Margiela black and red ensemble was a subtle stunner.
In the “Only eat one carrot a day” the Sand Dress from Balmain worn by songstress Tyla will rank as a Met Gala standout.
Barry Keoghan’s Burberry three-piece suit with top hat took the Beau Brummell prize for romance and elegance in the menswear category.
Has the Met Gala aged well? Red Carpet bashes feel more ponderous than glamorous. The format comes across as modern as our grandparent’s prom pictures.
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A Conversation with Brett
Designer Brett Johnson returns for a conversation on this Before Tacky episode. The Milan luxury fashion head talks about his vision for his label, the quiet luxury trend and the current state of the industry.
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Talley’s Chiffon Trenches
I finally read Andre Leon Talley’s book The Chiffon Trenches, the fashion authority’s memoir published in 2020. The Brown University graduate shows his gift of flowery as well melodramatic language describing his pioneering life in the fabulous stratosphere. However, therein lies the problem with the book. The author weaving the tales got tangled in the plush silk web.
From humbled beginnings in North Carolina to the corridors of fashion power at Vogue and Conde Nast, Talley’s journey was remarkable. An assignment with editor matrix Diana Vreeland opened the doors of influence and access.
Stints at Interview, W Magazine and Ebony, Paris then New York placed the Washington D.C. born journalist in a spoke of the fashion universe.
Into the Bubble
The expression goes “The devil does not come dressed in a red cape and pointy horns. He or she comes as everything you wished for.” It would be Anna Wintour who placed the journalist as close to the fashion’s center- hub as he would get. The British born uber magazine head made Talley a true member of the style gentry class. With a prestigious name plate, suddenly the first African American fashion Editor at Large not only had new friends, old enemies sought truces.
Working at Conde Nast came across as a gilded bubble, flying here and there, front role seats, endless name dropping, believing the gold leaf fiction would prove the influential style consultant to the star’s eventual downfall. Everyone has an expiration date. Mr. Talley’s beliefs in personal relationships in a transactional world came across as misguided, naïve, silly. Given his skill and knowledge, how did Andre fail to understand this?
The lack of introspection, suddenly chasing identity in a shallow way bothered me while reading his book. At the time of his writing, the world was gripped by BLM. Perhaps this was chasing the headlines of the day. I cannot remember Talley championing other African American Writers, designers, stylists until it was safe. Being friends with Naomi Campbell, Diana Ross and Michelle Obama was hardly risking taking.
His Job?
The confusing part of the book, what exactly did Talley do at Vogue? The details of having to pay for his driver when expenses were cut, laid bare, while the particulars of his job seemed vague, a column or a VIP styling every full moon. What were his real responsibilities? After his unceremonious 2018 dismissal from the fashion Bible, the once well-heeled connected style purveyor got lost, forgotten, a relic who did not keep up with the times. Seeing the frequently wearing caftain wearer on the 2020 Tamron Hall Show, I saw a man who came across as a child who lost his mother at the shopping mall. The issues with Wintour still ran deep.
Andre Leon Talley passed away in 2022 alone, struggling with legal and financial issues. The 73-year-old left a bigger than life legacy that sadly faded at the end.