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Fashion Travel

Historic Couture

Valentino Who? The Royal Chambers fashion pieces in Dresden would inspire any fashionista. Intricate couture looks fashioned for royalty displayed are an eye full of rich materials and details. The Schloss museum located in the historic center of the Baroque city is worth a style visit.

Royal Fashion in Dresden
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Fashion

Kenzo Takada

France 24 pays tribute to icon Kenzo.  A trailblazer designer who brought a new aesthetic to the fashion world.  Colours mixed with prints were his staples. 

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Views

I got a bit behind schedule. Of course I am paying attention to Milan Fashion Week. Sadly, we decided to skip the event this season because of Covid. Notheless, thanks to the digital platform we have been able to see the latest collections.

Stay Tuned for full reports.

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Cinema Fashion

Fashion at the Box-office

Olivier Rousteing is a one man force of fashion.  Being the youngest and first person of color to head a major Paris label.   He transformed the once staid house Balmain into a global phenomenal worn by “A list” celebrities.   

The documentary  “Wonderboy”  explores his life in the fast lane. 

I have not seen the film yet.  As soon as hits the screen, I will buy a ticket.

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Fashion Feature

Which One?

As Fashion Weeks approach I think there are now 3 categories of fashion types attending the shows and events. The Fashion World is driven by character absorption of media images. I classify them in 3 categories: The Carrie Bradshaws, The Anna Wintours, and The Kardashians. 

The Big 3

First, The Carrie Bradshaws of the fashion world. They really want to live in New York City while sort of having a job as a part time writer in one of the most expensive cities in the world. Living the life of shopping for heels, then hitting a lunch spot for a chat with friends. Sadly, that world is about as much reality as a Marvel Super Hero Film. But if they can attend a fashion show, look perky, get a few pictures sitting row front, job done.

Second, The Anna Wintour types are a more serious crowd. They want to respect. Armed with sunglasses, and a lot of attitude. When this type walks in you are suppose to know who they are from the first point of contact. The Fashion Gods will strike from Heaven for this impertinence.  Yes, some even try to absorb the superior character straits of a public personality. Is Anna really like this? According to their definition, “yes”.

Lastly, The Kardashian types are more about a show. They give you a spectacle. Presentation is important. Tight looks or a lot of color, heels to the ceiling, so much make up, Liberace would be proud. I am never sure what these people do for a day job. Of course they have a tag along companion.

These types are not exclusive to females. The male versions are a bit different. There are few masculine Carrie types. Men tend to lean more on the Wintour and Kardashians side. You know them when you meet them and more when you “see” them. No introduction needed. 

Fashion Weeks Season starts in January until the end of February.

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Fashion

Just Fabulous!

A Black and Paper film recommendation.  This summer will be full of blockbusters film offerings;  Avengers:Infinity War, Han Solo, Deadpool, Jurassic World.  If you are looking for something a out the ordinary  but with a twist of the extraordinary check out the documentary based on Mr. Andre Leon Talley.

 

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Fashion

Au Revoir Colette

SHOCKED! SADDENED! I could believe it! When I read the email with the headline I was in a state of disbelief. How? What? There was no warning. So many questions raced through my head.  Colette is closing at the end of the year after 20 years.  The influential concept store on Rue Saint Honore, Paris will go dark on December 20th stating in a release, “All good things must come to an end.”  So there it was a simple sentence to confirm the news.

https://www.instagram.com/p/-gr1FJn24D/?taken-by=blackandpaper

When I started Black and Paper I traveled to Paris for fashion week.  I managed to get an interview and store tour for the new magazine.  Why was this significant?  The webzine was small and much unknown to the public and in the profession but you would have never known this by the way the staff treated me.  All were professional.  I was treated like an editor of Vogue.  The store policy has always been we treat everyone equally.  Yes, they did and still do.

Founded by in 1997 by Colette Rousseaux, Colette was a force in fashion from the beginning with designer collaborations, championing new and independent fashion designers, or limited edition products from luxury to everyday brands.  An intimate location covering 3 floors, it has been a trendsetting destination from the start, always “in”. A shopper could find an item for $10.000 or a something for $3.00.

I will miss going to the store to see the crowds of fashion style enthusiasts.  I liked having a Café Latte in the basement café.  I will cherish the moments.

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Fashion

An Interview with Xu Zhi

A Black and Paper Exclusive

London based Chinese fashion designer interprets feminine looks using progressive materials paired with constructive elements of design.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Xu founded his label in 2014, achieving success with his collection available in many prestigious stores in Asia and Europe.

The young designer showed his Fall 2017 collection in Milan during Fashion Week at the Teatro Armani with support of Mr. Armani and National Chamber of Italian Fashion.   Cutting edge denim, braids, and the color blue were the central themes along with leather.  The collection showed confidence from a young designer willing to go in his own fashion direction.

As a new designer, how are you planning to attract loyal clients?

My brand is very much based on longevity. We are taking time to really assess who the Xu Zhi woman is, and offer collections that will enhance both their lives and current wardrobes. Also, in continuing developing the house style, we hope to familiarize yet still excite our customer season after season.

You use high quality materials, where are they sourced?

It is dependent on the season, but largely from Italy and France.

How did you feel about being supported by Armani and Camera Moda at Fashion Week?

Incredibly humbling and hugely exciting that, as a young designer, our hard work has been acknowledged.

What inspired the deconstructed looks?

It originally came from the idea of trying to imitate brushstrokes with fabric, and how that could be achieved in different ways. This resulted in the deconstructed element you refer to.

What type of woman would wear look #5?

The Xu Zhi woman. Decisive, commanding and assertive – yet approachable, humble and refined.

Where will your brand be in the future? 

I think we’re growing organically – it’s difficult to say where it will be, but I’d like it to be in the closets of the woman we’re trying hard to speak to with our pieces.

Xu Zhi collection can be found in Dover Street Market, London, Lane Crawford  Hong Kong, and Opening Ceremony, Tokyo.

 

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Fashion

Nocturnal

Cavalli

Nocturnal is the mood Cavalli collection consisting of cat prints, snakeskin, peacock feathers.  White, Black, and animal palettes were on display in Milan from the designer this season.   Sensuality is the trademark of Cavalli, keeping to the brands DNA, the looks blended ornamentation and detailed craftsmanship using tweeds, furs, beads, and strips of python fabrics.

From Milan Fashion Week

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Fashion

London Fashion Week Men

London Fashion Week Men has kicked off to a start that can be described as “creative.”  Of the all fashion centers, the British capital has always been a step in the direction of quirky.    Designers are more inclined to step out of comfort zones.  The availability of fresh creative talent in the city means there is a futile ground for something fresh or even strange in the design department.

Black and Paper Highlights:

Katie Eary’s “Night at the Playboy Mansion” Pajama Llooks are perfect for the man who wants a bit of Noel Coward sophistication.

Craig Green’s flowing colors and carpets seemed like uniforms from Star Trek.

Top Man’s collection is not handsome but fun.

Christopher Shannon’s collection of melded pieces is ready for the night at an urban club.

Casely Hayford are using on long geometric shapes

Matther Miller’s collection focused on black and more black for the intimidating man of town.

Oliver Spencer proves you can have understated wear that stands out in a crowd.

Cottweiler looks are for guys you date but do not take home to mother until get to rally know him.

J.W. Anderson’s heavy looks of patches and knitwear are down to earth if not folksy