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Fashion

Has Luxury Fashion Come To This?

At the end of 2024, the Luxury Fashion Industry finds itself in a major predicament of its own making. Consumers have caught onto the game, now brands are bracing for the backlash. Buyers are no longer charmed by the “expensive” handbag and other accessories with sky high price tag.

The recent headlines report shopper fatigue for luxury goods. When a major newspaper reads “Death Spiral of Luxury Fashion” there is a big problem. In lock corporate step, houses evolved in Overpriced Zaras, neglecting quality for quantity, big fast profit over long term customer loyalty. Speaking to a colleague concerning these issues, he told a story of buyer’s remorse of people complaining about a certain top tier brand’s handbag coming apart at the seams after a few months of carriage.

It will be an interesting 2025 to see if the Luxury Fashion can regain its footing or continue on# a downward spiral. Only time will tell.

Categories
Fashion

Gucci Reset

Gucci performed a reset this season at Milan Fashion Week. After the ouster of creative head Alessandro Michele, Naples born Sabato De Sarno took the lead of the legendary fashion house.

Less bling, more sexy chic looks hit the runway with looks based on feminine seduction. Parent company Kering sounded alarm bells as sales slipped in key markets. Buyers no longer wanted flashy, but rather low-key pieces. For the past fourteen years, Gucci pieces were about a conspicuous style. A part of the, “Hey, Look at Me wearing something expensivefashion label group along with Balenciaga and Dolce&Gabbana.

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Will this new direction restart the struggling brand? Can buyers wrap their heads around Gucci’s Ancora less is more looks of mini and leather skirts along with jewelled tops? We have to wait for this spring.

Stay tuned for Before Tacky, our podcast on fashion news and reviews.

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Fashion

Musical Chair at Gucci

I need a crystal ball to keep up with the creative head resignations, musical chairs.

The shocking news of designer Alessandro Michele departing Gucci reverberated through the fashion industry. Since 2015 the Rome born head was front of the center of the brand. Michele has been the Crown Prince of Modern Bling with collections primed for social media postings. Twenty years ago the Rome born creative director joined the house in the accessory wear division.

It’s hard to believe Gucci parent company Kering letting one of the top moneymakers and high profiled talent who seemed to flourish in the corporate clothing world. Only a few months ago Alessandro staged a star studded runway show on Hollywood Blvd. As with many great designers, Michele understood the theatrics of the business, walking up the stairs of the Met Gala or twins walking down the runway, Gucci was always in papers, magazines and online. Or being tied to the hip to superstars Harry Styles and Jared Leto, the Florence based house seemed to define the moment. But no all was well. In recent hours reports filtered out sales were down in key markets. Is the world tiring of the over the top brocades and ostentatious pieces?

It’s all about the Social

With 49.6 million Instagram followers, Gucci is about sending the style signal of wearing your wealth on your back. Showing off is good. After all part of their buyer fun is the over the top appeal. Advertising to the world, a “Look at Me” attitude. Gender is a relic of the past.

With the exit before the upcoming fashion weeks in January and February, a major fashion house is under the microscope. Who will be the replacement? As a fashion professional, the announcement came as a shock. Can a successor continue on the same path? Doubts are singing in my head. As the world enters an economic downturn, will Gucci tone down? It is hard to imagine.

We have to wait and see what happens at Gucci. CEO Marco Bizzarri will have to move fast concerning a replacement announcement.

Certainly Alessandro Michele’s career is not over, just moving onward.

Categories
Fashion

Gucci Bling from Paris

A Gucci Re See from Paris Fashion Week by photographer Brice Hardelin.

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Fashion

Gucci at Paris Fashion Week

This year the Bling brand decided not to showcases in Milan but in Paris for Fashion Week.  A bit of a surprise!   A change of location but the same looks applied.  Creative Director Michele is not about the understated.  Get Noticed! Flaunt it if you got it!  Who cares about restraint.  Instagram is about a fantasy life and Gucci is the stylist,  sparkling accents, dazzling embroidery with Jewels fit for a  Sun King.  

Paris based photographer and Black and Paper creative contributor  Brice Hardelin attended a private tour of the Spring 2019 collection at the atelier in Paris. 

Categories
Fashion

Has Gucci Gone Too Far?

Has Gucci gone too far? A recent the New York Times article asked the question, “Is Gucci stylish or tacky?”  The answer could go in both ways according the perspective. Gucci embraced the modern. In many ways the looks reflect the “Selfie Times”.  See me! This is what I got! Instagram posting moment! Because life is not about being subtle.  Because these designs are made with social media in mind, it is all about the post. During Fashion Week Milan in February I got an up close and personal go see of the entire collection at the Gucci Campus in Milan.  Creative Director Alessandro Michele has taken the brand into new areas unashamed personal expression. For those who like the subdued, buy a British Heritage Brand.

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This Fall Collection mixed with pop references and styles. There is no one silhouette. It is about being photographed in the here and now, no matter what is worn. The aesthetic is classic meets frivolity, everyday items charged with bling. The pieces can be mixed and match with streetwear for a standout effect, casual jeans with a baseball cap emblazoned with a “G” on top. For bag fanatics in all of us with the urge to show off, the exotic skins and shapes with shining details are there. You cannot help but get noticed with this accessory hanging on your arm. The details are many, such as embroidery, logos, and prints.

What I liked the most was the overcoat with a twist of three visual styles. One half was traditional gentlemen’s gray while the other mixed tartan with an animation print on the bottom. The gender look is menswear but in reality it could be effortlessly worn by anyone. Honestly, I would not wear an entire Gucci look. It would overwhelm me. One piece would be enough for an entrance.

Gucci Fall 2018 looks are available in stores.

Categories
Fashion

A “GUCCITASTIC” Tour

Alessandro Michele showed 107 looks this season inspired by gender fluidity, cartoon characters, Joan Collins shoulders pads, and Elton John.  All of these elements made for an electric collection crossing many lines.

Black and Paper went to the Gucci Hub in Milan to get an up close and personal showing of the collection and pieces.  Beautiful jacquard fabrics with quilted linings that tell a story.

The connections to Elton John were up front and center, jackets s with musical symbols and “Goodbye Yellow Brick Road” album cover sweat suits.

Signature Gucci Bags were made of strong leather but Python skins stood out.  Everyone will want one next year.

Sweaters were printed with Bugs Bunny and Snow White.  Coltish shorts matched with mid length feminine and masculine jackets were crafted for the athletic form.

Prominent in the collection were the sheer fabrics and terry cloth used for suits.  Lavish fur pelts details were intricate.  Each piece was an inch wide all sewn by hand.

The standouts of the season were the wrinkle and embroidery looks.  Gucci employed special techniques resulting in dazzling effects.  The dress (see below) is pure and simple opulence.

Black and Paper Associate Editor Leah Ahuja is based in Beverly Hills, California.  She was given a one on one presentation of the Gucci Collection during Milan Fashion Week.  

 

Categories
Fashion

A Gucci Gender

Black and Paper went to the Gucci Hub in Milan  during Fashion Week to have a look at the look at the Spring 18 collection.  The theme was “Genderless”.

Stay tuned for all the looks and our review.

Categories
Fashion

A Gucci Moment in Miland

Black and Paper Re-See of the Gucci Fall 2017 Collection.

The looks presented this season were inspired by the fantasies of Alessandro Michele.  There were 100 looks with many pieces ranging from oriental umbrellas to my personal favorite, sheer suits.  Feeling a bit like a couture collection, there were many rich details and embellishments, ranging from embroiled pearls on cuffs and male cut out pants suits. Gucci is a brand of accessories, and all were on hand from the new bag with a symmetrical cut and flats in a gladiator style made of styles or the jacquard shoes.    There was no overall universal theme this season, except using every color in the spectrum; while I was going over the looks, I was reminded of the cover of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, fun, optimistic, creative from a designer who is looking to the future.

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Cinema

A Quick Conversation

Leandro Taub is a multi-disciplined artist born in Argentina.  His latest film, Endless Poetry, directed by Alejandro Jodorowsjy, debuted at the 2016 Cannes Film Festival.  An autobiographical story set against the artistic movement of Chile.

What is your roll in the film Endless Poetry?

In the film, I play the best friend of Alejandro Jodorowsky when he was also a teenager.   He discovers and finds in me an inspiration, muse, friendship, competition, and companion.  It is a great adventure.   My character’s name is Enrique Lihn, he learns about art, love poetry, and other inspirations at a young age. 

Variety described the film as “Felliniesque”, would you agree with this?

I believe that any comparison is a risk for the one who is doing it, for the ones who are being compared and for the witnesses who witness the comparison. First,  the one who is doing it, blocks his mind in definitions and doesn’t allow himself to open up to the new alternatives and ideas outside of his past experiences. Secondly, the ones who are being compared are judged not by what they are and what they are doing.  Lastly, the witnesses of these comparisons, if they are discerning, could believe in them. They are being influenced by the view of the others.

Leandro Taub - Foto por Vorfas 2Do you have a creative pattern?

Unpredictable! Not because I try, just because I am.  I don’t have a clue what is going to happen tomorrow.  Sometimes I go to one side, sometimes to the other side.  Sometimes I don’t like any side.   I have been involved in several projects from cinema to writing books. I hope everything I do improves the world.

Were you a David Bowie fan?

He was an influence with his music, words, and aesthetic. But if you explore my works you will not only find him, but you also find rabbis, pop idols, dictators, saints, yogis, porn stars, Hollywood stars, and philosophers.  I filter and process a lot of information.  Everything I have heard, seen, or listened to in one form of anther has influenced me, subconsciously. 

Name a great creative city.

Planet Earth, it is a big town, right?

 

Check local cinema  listings for Endless Poetry.  

Check out  the Anniversary Edition edition of 032c magazine to see Leandro’s Gucci Pictorial Spread.