Just when you thought the luxury handbag narrative could not get any crazier, it does. Now retail giant Walmart has entered the fray. The Bentonville discounter chain introduced a version of an iconic bag and social media has gone wild over the copy. Birkin handbags are suppose to be the exclusive domain of the rich and famous with buyers sometimes waiting for years to purchase the ultimate accessory. Walmart made getting hands on one, at least a sort of respectable fake, a bit easier with a dupe that looks almost exactly like the famous piece at a price of only $78. Given the recent headlines of heritage brands skimping on handbag craftsmanship, perhaps, maybe the “Wirkin” is worth the investment.
At the end of 2024, the Luxury Fashion Industry finds itself in a major predicament of its own making. Consumers have caught onto the game, now brands are bracing for the backlash. Buyers are no longer charmed by the “expensive” handbag and other accessories with sky high price tag.
The recent headlines report shopper fatigue for luxury goods. When a major newspaper reads “Death Spiral of Luxury Fashion” there is a big problem. In lock corporate step, houses evolved in Overpriced Zaras, neglecting quality for quantity, big fast profit over long term customer loyalty. Speaking to a colleague concerning these issues, he told a story of buyer’s remorse of people complaining about a certain top tier brand’s handbag coming apart at the seams after a few months of carriage.
It will be an interesting 2025 to see if the Luxury Fashion can regain its footing or continue on# a downward spiral. Only time will tell.
Another day another fashion accessory scandal hits the airwaves. Once again Prato finds itself at the center of suspect labor practices. This time Aljazeera uncovered more shoddy production in the Tuscany city. Major fashion brands employing contractors, sub-contractors and sub-sub-contractors engage in cat and mouse games in order to circumvent Italian Labor laws.
As luxury increased prices on one end, they sought out cheaper production on the other. Capitalism rewards those who exploit more efficiently Workers earning as little as 3 euros an hour work a twelve-hour day, sometimes six days a week manufacturing glamorous leather pieces that sell for as much as 3400 euros in high-end shops.
There is nothing wrong having a labeled expensive handbag. But the dilemma is the hidden or not hidden mechanics of the product coveted. An expensive leather handbag is a sought of trophy. However, what if the prize comes from an unscrupulous source? The most convenient human emotion to access is denial.
The brazenness of luxury brands and producers to almost flaunt their less than ethical ways is baffling. Supply chains are easily traceable in 2024. Everyone has a camera and a social media account with potential to post a brand damaging image.
A big leather factory with illegal sweatshop labor wouldn’t go unnoticed. Yet, why are the companies relaxed about sourcing products? Because executives know consumers will forget a scandal. Certainly the outrage will be hot and loud at the beginning, then back to normal.
While watching the investigative report, the saying “It is morally wrong to allow a sucker to keep his money” came to my mind. When a factory owner details the nebulous agreements then the manufacturing price of a handbag, the world of luxury accessory is a sucker’s desire. One item made with a third party inflated added cost of 84 euros in Italy, retails for 2800 euros in soft lite carpeted outlets around the world.
Now when I see a person with a designer handbag proudly walking down the street with an air of style superiority. I will have to hold back my snigger.
“Luxury bags make your life more pleasant, make you dream, give you confidence, and show your neighbors you’re doing well.” Largerfeld.
As the luxury handbag bubble pops due to working condition and mark-up scandals and over, there are alternatives to big brands. The labels I listed below are small, not mass produced, but more importantly, unique. A person carrying one of these pieces will get a lot of compliments.
While in Milan, walking by Up You To Anthology on my way to a Fashion Week appointment, I decided to go in. After speaking to the curator, he told me each bag is designed by artists with a limited production run.
Up To You Anthology
During Pitti Uomo I always pass by the Sentiero Florence store. Looking in the window I decided to go in and see. The sales lady told me about the family owned label still producing handbags in Tuscany.
Sentiero Florence La Portegna Madrid
I am recommending this brand because the online review have been good for this Madrid’s La Portegna. Spanish producers are known for quality leather goods.
Bonastre
I met the Bonastre team at Pitti Uomo. As a small luxury brand the designer and staff have close relationship all aspects of the Paris based label from design to the final product.
Balenciaga. Balenciaga. Cristobal’s influential namesake brand was once a trailblazer of inspiring silhouettes and shapes. Today, not so sure what to make of the Paris label.
The Shoulder Glove Bag is another gimmick to stand out. Ugly is my word for leather that more like a costume from a Talking Heads video.
Demma Gvasalia continues to head the social media favorite luxury design house at a time when his contemporaries colleagues at Gucci and Moschino have exited. Wondering here, is gimmicky fashion in fashion? $4,250 for an over the awkward top accessory seems a bit out of place. Is it just me!
The interview with bag designer Silvia Scaramucci on her handbags and view on life.
Yosono moved away from classic bag styles, was this a mission statement?
Our mission is to satisfy the consumer’s desire to invest in beautiful, high-quality bags that will stand the test of time and which actually tell a story about the wearer. In addition to this, our products address people who like changing, by having a different bag which goes hand in hand with their mood.The fashion industry has moved away from classic styles and instead has started to gravitate toward the cult of the personality bag.
Buying them is done with as much head as heart.
What is the story of the Model Joy Bag?
I designed this model for customers who need something useful and functional, yet with personality, as the bag still features the geometric lines which characterize any of our models.
The Janne Bag is a bit multi-dimensional. How do you develop the design?
Checkout the interview below:
I wanted to design something that could be worn in different ways. Janne is a bag you can either wear on your shoulder or like a necklace; moreover, you can also change the flap and the strap to boast a different bag whenever you like.
Optimism is the brand story, can you explain?
We are a young and creative team and we strongly believe in a better world. Our aim is to make something we enjoy and which brings us pleasure and satisfaction; that’s why our zest for life inevitably contaminates our creations.
How many bags should a person have?
This is a little bit personal… Maybe each woman would like to have as many bags as they wish…I know people who have more than a hundred bags, but I usually suggest relying on high quality than quantity.
Related to the rebooting and rebirthing issue, how will the brand redefine their concept during this pivotal time?
This is a very difficult time and the right way to redefine ourselves is not that clear at the moment…however, we hope this situation will change all the rules which govern the fashion industry and make our way to building a new concept of business made of well-made and “sincere” products, which clearly state who they are and where they come from. The only way to face this crisis is to make products which feature the high-quality and craftsmanship we are famous for all over the world.
Who is the brand’s famous role model?
The Zoe model is our iconic shape. People love that because it’s easily identifiable and suitable for any age.
I like their young preppy Geometric aesthetic Concept, please explain
This is definitely my signature. All the bags I design have geometry in them; I love enclosing everything in defined lines and borders. This probably reflects a necessity to turn the chaos I feel in my soul into something visible and neat, in order to find my peace of mind into something reliable and well-defined, which brings peace and harmony.
What colors will you recommend this summer?
Pastel colors, absolutely! And earth colors in all their shades, but always with a hint of bright and vivid color such as neon ones.
Who are you clients and where?
I have clients from different countries…I don’t have a specific ID of my ordinary customer because the lines and shapes of the bags are very much appreciated by people of different ages and social classes. Being fully customizable, our product can be worn by anyone who likes standing out.
Company name origins, how did you develop this?
Yosono means “I am” in Italian: that’s where we started from..We just changed the letter “I” in “Y” because we love the “Japanese” sound it has, something more “international”. “I am” because when you buy one of our bags, your personality inevitably infuses in the bag itself, which shouts out loud “This is what I am!”.
Being a designer how did you start and what advice would you give to a young bag designer.
I recommend young designers follow their own path autonomously, without getting distracted by what other people are doing. I also suggest working against the tide without following what the market actually wants and going on with strength and commitment, as tough times may come…so, never give up.
I met Paolo Ferrari at a fashion trade show in Berlin. His sustainable bags made from reused seat belts struck me as chic. I have been a fan ever sense.
Check out our Before Tacky interview with the Italian handbag designer behind the 959 brand.
Paolo speaks about why and how he creates the brand’s collections.
Advertisement: My shirt, courtesy of Esemplare from ThinkInc Communications.
How about a collection that says “me now”? I did not know the Paula Cademartori until a fashion colleague asked me to accompany her to the presentation at a Milan antique store. The designer goes for strong fall statement accessories with bags and shoes.
Valextra, the Italian handbag maker produces pieces based on luxury not overstated flash. Each bag makes a statement. I have been a fan of the brand for many seasons. The brand is a favourite of Oprah Winfrey.
