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Fashion Feature

Luxury’s Lost Luster

How did luxury lose its luster? There are many answers to this question.  As the industry reels from lower profits while consumers cut back on aspirational purchases.  Some answers require a somewhat deeper analysis. 

As masstige became a business model for exclusive brands, they began to lose their allure.  Overproducing so called “desired pieces” accomplished the opposite effect, a splash of everyday common tattiness. When once there was admiration mingled with a touch of covetousness for a displayed logo or design, today, this comes across as vacuous consumption for the sake of showing off. 

As management drivers took control of the luxury industry, maximising the bottom line became paramount.  Corporate control is not about creation, but rather big profits.  A fast way to make money is to increase prices for high demand goods.  These price hikes did not go unnoticed by pinched shoppers who simply prioritized basics over splendours.

A cautionary tale is taking place.  Trying to be everything to everyone can mean nothing to all.   As luxury fashion continued casting a wide net, discerning buyers went in the opposite direction.  A corporate boss does not desire what a workers have.  Teen buyers are shaped by peers, not their parents. Generation Z has become mass labels wary.  Young buyers look less willing to chase brands, looking for different, more individualistic clothing.

The most important asset for any brand is reputation.  An ongoing sweatshop scandal has at least in the short term made many buyers question the real value of these labels. Factories employing illegal workers in poor conditions while producing high quality expensive goods rattled consumer trust. 

The luxury sector is entering a period of uncertainty. With retail in a tailspin, once rock solid markets in Asia in a slowdown, global conflicts, changes at the creative head levels, the Fall 2024 Fashion Week conversations will be more interesting than the runway collections. 

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Fashion Feature

Fantasy vs. Reality

The Dior Fantasy is of a handbag made with passion in a stylish factory.

The reality is very different. Dior’s handbags are made mass produced under sweatshop conditions.

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Fashion

A Luxury Comeback

Luxury timepieces took a bit of hit during the rise of digital devices in the form of smartphones and smart watches. Times are swinging back to the craftsmanship and investment. Buyers and collectors are purchasing luxury watches faster than producers make the desired pieces.

The Tag Heuer Calibre

Image by Brice Hardelin for Black and Paper.

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Fashion

Couture 2

Two

Two shows that impressed me this Couture Season, Fashion House Balenciaga returned to Couture stage this season after 53 years. Hard shoes to fill, Cristobal is revered in the fashion world. Creative head Demna Gvasalia had his hands full. The expectations of failure came to my mind. Happily, “disappointed” because Demma step up the plate, swung the bat for a home run. Reinterpreting a master is not easy, finding a modern balance with a line to the heritage. Let’s consider the world is still suffering from Covid 19. Why introduce a couture collection? A long shot.

The lamp shade hats hooked me. Showstopper! The glorious piece topping a wool sleeveless frayed looks. Of course the over size suits hit the eyes with the glorious sensation of a child seeing cotton candy, sheer delight.

Valentino

Valentino in Venice, not the normal location for the Italian house to have a Haute Couture fashion show. But, these are not normal times. Staging the catwalk in Italy, Pierpaolo Piccioli pulled the pride card, who can blame him given Italy’s

struggles over the past 17 month. Doing what Valentino has done best, matching the classy with the spectacular touching on ethereal. The vibrant color palette gave the touch of optimism.

Where to start on the looks? Eighty four creations in all shown at Venice Ship year. Being from the American South, of course will catch my attention. Throw in lavender, I will it a winner. The feathered top piece and mini leather cloaked dress was a stunner. Mixing in menswear with capes, oversized scarves and loose jackets, I guess there was a statement, yet, I missed it. Don’t get me wrong, the looks were superb, but i would rather have watched them in a mens show.

Life feels uncertain these days, however, “Creative is a natural extension of our enthusiasm.”

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Fashion

Couture Week Paris-4

Highlights from the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Over the next few days check back for more details. But meanwhile, sit back and enjoy the creative power of these looks.