Designer Brett Johnson returns for a conversation on this Before Tacky episode. The Milan luxury fashion head talks about his vision for his label, the quiet luxury trend and the current state of the industry.
Menswear Fashion Designer Brett Johnson returns as a guest to the Before Tacky Fashion podcast. The head of the Milan based brand will talk about his latest collection and the state of men’s style.
“WORK IS NOT WORK IF YOU LIKE IT“, PILATI
Fashion designer Stefano Pilati gave a talk during Milan Fashion Week at Istituto Marangoni on his career and the state of fashion. The Italian born former head of YSL spoke about practicing patience for young designers, not thinking success will come immediately, but taking time to build a career. The current mass production of luxury goods sold over the world makes once sought after goods less desirable, said the one time Miu Miu designer.
Currently based in Berlin, Mr. Pilati spoke about his new Random Identities brand and the trends in the fashion arena during the one hour discussion.
Brightway from Osaka produces luxurious sneakers made from Japanese leather. The three generation footwear makers have a philosophy: “A Pair to Love Even After 10 Years.” Clic below to watch the Before Tacky podcast interview
“Luxury bags make your life more pleasant, make you dream, give you confidence, and show your neighbors you’re doing well.” Karl Lagerfeld
Luxury fashion brands decided going up is better than going down. Prices have increased on aspirational pieces. Chanel bags are now twenty percent more. The controversial Speedy Bag from Louis Vuitton menswear head Pharrell now goes for $1 million. Is this too much? Have the labels lost touched with aspirational clients? Recently there have been many articles and social media posts on an industry that is feeling more and more out of touch.
Instagram gave the world an entitled make believe reality of imaginary wealth, generating demand for high priced goods. In business, when there is increased desire, rise the prices, the Chanel Hobo Bag is now 6350 euros. However, consumers are now balking at forking over more a prized item. The biggest luxury corporations LVMH, Kering and Richemont have been caught off guard, reporting lower sales figures. As the economy slows, inflation bites, buyers have put off buying the latest expensive offerings. Is this only a trend or a new normal of shoppers thinking twice about trading upward? Dreaming keeps the spirits high, but during these times, customers feel money in bank is more secure.
There is a fashion option of renting over buying this holiday season. Check out our Podcast series Before Tacky on WeDress Collective.
Luxury fashion buyers are forsaking flash for quiet luxury. I call this trend “the wink cause we know the cost of a piece.” Brunello Cucinelli continues to reap the benefits of the consumer shift to luxurious quality. According to business site Bloomberg, the Corciano, Italy based fashion house upgraded its sales forecasts after outpacing Gucci and other pricey labels.
Cucinelli has been about rich fabrics over classic design reinvention, a traditional approach relying more on style endurance than fashion for the moment. The brand appeals to wearers who are there, not trying to fake it.
Gucci performed a reset this season at Milan Fashion Week. After the ouster of creative head Alessandro Michele, Naples born Sabato De Sarno took the lead of the legendary fashion house.
Less bling, more sexy chic looks hit the runway with looks based on feminine seduction. Parent company Kering sounded alarm bells as sales slipped in key markets. Buyers no longer wanted flashy, but rather low-key pieces. For the past fourteen years, Gucci pieces were about a conspicuous style. A part of the, “Hey, Look at Me wearing something expensive” fashion label group along with Balenciaga and Dolce&Gabbana.
Will this new direction restart the struggling brand? Can buyers wrap their heads around Gucci’s Ancora less is more looks of mini and leather skirts along with jewelled tops? We have to wait for this spring.
Stay tuned for Before Tacky, our podcast on fashion news and reviews.
Monograms are out. Quiet and soft are in. Fall 2023 has arrived, the looks for the up coming season focuses on not being a walking fashion brand billboard. The exact time of this style transformation escapes me but be warned, having BALENCIAGA on your chest is déclassé.
Menswear returned to a more classical approach. Gender fluidity trended on the catwalk, but sales became another matter. Guys are retreating to what they wear best. As Gucci and other disciples of showing it off looked for creative heads, the under the radar quiet brands have hit the mark with shoppers.
Fronting: Acting like you are more, or you have more, than what really exists.
Fake: is a word to describe people who aren’t themselves in order to gain friends and end up being more popular. They seem very nice to everyone, yet trash-talks them behind their back in order to get attention from people and make “friends” just to improve their social-status.
Shameless display of wealth entered a new dimension with the advent of social media, especially with Instagram. A post is not just a post, a picture is a digital brand. Fronting the fabulous life gives cred to the IG generation, living the Kardashian life. The economic reality behind the filtered smile, a lack of cash to sustain the image. Shopping, shopping, shopping for a designer bag, the latest sneaker, that brilliant fuchsia piece takes money. Bill Gates is now divorced, available, but the tech mogul does not want a clothes horse on his arm.
A TikTok post from a luxury retailer sales person revealed the hard truth. Fronting is mainstream and has reached the top. According to the sales person, people buy items, post them, then return the clothes to the store. Is this behavior new? NO! The past few years, there have been stories about “Instagram Returns”. Customers buy, wear, post, take back to the store. A generation go wearing something then brazenly returning was considered low to no class. In the 21st century, embarrassment is an outdated concept. Attention seeking knows no bounds.
One Saks Fifth Avenue shopper complained the high-end clothing mecca feels more like a thrift store, with many pieces on the store shelf looking worn.
Faking and fronting is contagious.