Black and Paper presents From Milan With Love by Flora Marcella Cusi with Gabi Thiam wearing Borsalino Hats and Colmar Outerwear.
Stay Tuned for more from the series.
I enjoy going to Pitti Uomo in Florence in January. It’s working blended in with pleasure. The historical city is romantic, charming, and pleasing to the eye. The best characteristic about Pitti Uomo is the atmosphere. Mens outfits of the day take center stage. Dandy’s dressed up showing off their best looks, always up for a conversation about what they are wearing.
This year the bi-annual menswear gathering felt a bit subdued. Low-key to the point of average. What Happened? I am not so sure. Many brands pulled back this year. Instead of celebrations, somber reflection took place.
I had conversations about Barneys New York. The luxury department store had been floundering for a while, but there was optimism it would pull through. Not this time, the bankruptcy hit home. An earthquake felt around the mens fashion world. If this one, who is next? Barneys championed new brands. A place to test trends. The menswear buyer was well known at Pitti Uomo, always talking to designers and labels about their collections. No more! The New York iconic flagship store has “Going Out of Business” and “Everything Must Go” signs on the doors and windows. More thought provoking, nothing has emerged to take Barneys place. Making it harder for new designers to break into mainstream consumer conscienceless.
There were gems of course at Pitti Uomo. I visited Japanese shoe designer Kanpekina. His footwear makes me tingle. A second Japanese designer I met, Kunihiko Morinaga from Anrealage, produces many unique menswear pieces. Especially stunning are his statement patchwork looks in the form of jackets and polo shirts. The finish and rich details demonstrate luxury tailoring.
Florence is a city of Grand Settings. I have had the privilege of visiting a few during Pitti Uomo. The most impressive presentation was by Brioni for its 75thanniversary. The luxury brand wanted set the scene for luxury, a Florentine Palazzo. Six rooms with a chamber concert musicians wearing the latest looks. Take That Downton Abbey!
Stay Tuned for more on Pitti Uomo.
The world has now become social media politically conscience. It is hyper connected movement of righteousness mixed with moral superiority. If iOS shuts down, heaven help the world.
Predicting what Millennials and Social Media want is hard. They post one thing to be a part of a movement but purchase the opposite in stores.
Sustainability clothing will not come cheap. Yes, we agree the world needs to change course but putting wallet where the values seems hard to reconcile, especially for a generation raised on disposable fashion. Can they change their consumption habits. Are Millennials prepared to give up the 1.99 t-shirts? Will they buy better and less? No more weekly shopping trips to main street stores for weekend looks only to end up in garbage heaps 1 week later.
The contridictions are glaring. Based on real retail sales, the picture is not so social media warrior clear. When given the choice of quality over quantity. Quantity wins. New shopping habits are required to save the world. Not just feel good speeches.
Fashion pieces in the past were sustainable. Pieces made of better quality. Secondly, styles changes from season to season were less radical. Eternal is no longer a design plan. This is not compatible in a world perpetually chasing followers and likes. Selfies require a constant source of clothing.
The Fashion Industry has taken up the mantle. Recently announcing sustainability, Earth and eco-friendly are now a part of corporate manifestos. Doing more to help the environment. Commendable. But what does it mean? New production techniques, an incentive for less customer consumption, longer product life cycle.
Yes, people are more environmental aware. Voices chanting. Marches across the globe. But the real change comes from the dollar or euro. Where the intentions go, the wallet should follow.
As Paris Fashion Week Men continues, labels have been affected by the Let’s See What Works” era. Many are going in new directions. What to make of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton? My first impression was the Three Stooges short “Slippery Silks” from 1936. Moe, Larry, and Curly inherit a dress shop. The guys are really furniture makers and carpenters. The Stooges put on a fashion show with models wearing designs resembling furniture pieces. I laughed so hard as a kid watching this on television reruns.. Now, I am not a child.
The June 2019 collection from LV Menswear felt like an Ikea collaboration. Yes, the location was made for modern media, a square in Paris. But going over the looks, HUH? Gender free, skirts, structures on the body, rain boots, was there a sale at a local flea market? I had a feeling of discomfort thinking about wearing many looks. The kite or lamp or table over the shoulder came across as a bit over the top. How one wear this without feeling a bit ridiculous is beyond me.
The Louis Vuitton menswear client is a first stage luxury buyer. He wants to show-off his money with the giant LV logo plastered on everything worn. In the Social Media Age this is acceptable wealth display behavior. The #LV attracts a lot of “likes” on Instagram.
Personally, I would not buy a single piece from the runway. But Virgil is savvy, established. The saying goes, “Don’t Hate! Appreciate! One cannot guilt the brand or designer for going after the market. Asia is fueling fashion’s growth. LV is a business eyeing big profits. As fashion decides to push boundaries, reject many social conventions, the balancing act is a fine one. Success, ridicule, losing touch, or irrelavance can pop out of the one hat.
During Milan Fashion Week Men I popped over to Luca Larenza presentation. Other than being a nice guy, the menswear designer leans toward the casual side of mens fashion. The collection is leisure wear with retro looks. I admit this was not my favourite from him. I liked his winter looks more. If a man is looking to relax without effort. These pieces are for him.
My London Fashion Week Men impressions are so far so good. As always, even in middle of the Brexit Crisis, the city finds its creative spirit, edgy, off kilter. The weakest of the Menswear week, London has proven to be one of residence. Enlisting big names, Beckham, Dandy, and a Prince, to give lift into the big leagues with Milan and New York. As a person who is inspired by menswear I always think of London as experiementation, risk. That what makes it a great city compared to the others.
Kent & Curwen co-owner David Beckham should be proud. The Saville label founded in 1926 produced ties for veterans. Creative Director Daniel Kearns moved effortlessly from military to sporty. The blend of colors and prints were on this side of classic by very imaginative.
Iceberg decided to go all over with knitwear and looks based on skiwear. Prints and more prints radiating sharp colors.
Craig Green has consumed too many energy drinks. Deconstruct, over the top florescent colors that looked like packing material. The headpieces seemed a bit oriental or from a religious ceremony.
Per Gotesson has an interesting take on the modern man. Just cut it at an angle. I liked pieces more than looks from the new designer. The subdued color palette was overset by bold sexual themes.
Daniel W. Fletcher proved wearable is not dull and gender is still in style. Denim, suits, and outerwear all come together for 22 looks that feel modern.
Raeburn interwove military with utility looks and material. The 10thyear of the brand means something is going right. Not high fashion but street fashion. Masculine forms, but comfortable in the unisex category for the gender free crowd, I understand the success.
What will be the latest trends from Milan Fashion Week Men? We cannot wait to see.
A roof top view of #Milan. #MFWM coverage starts January 8th. #fashionweek #menswear #mensfashion #travel #ootdfashion #ootdmen #fashion #mensstyle #TuesdayMotivation #FashionTrends #fashiondesign #ttot #traveling pic.twitter.com/gMvbtPGqlO
— BlackandPaper (@BlackandPaper1) November 27, 2018
Black and Paper liked the Spring 2018 collection from Hermes. It was accessible, relaxed from a brand associated with absolute luxury. There are the classic touches of leather jackets; soft and light.
Italian leather crafts wear brand Serapian has a new collection this fall inspired by the seventies. I saw their pieces at Pitti Uomo in Florence. For a man looking for a luxury bag with style and details but without the brand markings, I recommend these bags for their craftsmanship and versatility; the looks can be both formal and informal. Of course all bags are Italian Made.
The 14 Capsule Collection is only available in 30 boutiques and Serapian Stores.
Go to Serapian.com
Giuseppe Zanotti’s Fall Men’s shoes are based on his interpretation of dandyism, Footwear designs that are formal, athletic, and night life. I saw rich subtle with touches of bling in Milan, loafers, sneakers, slip-ons were the core items of the collection. Essentially it’s just shoes for men who want look sharp. Silks, suedes, velvets, were mixed in the form of hi-tops, moccasins, and low-outs. Zanotti does not push the envelope instead he makes a turn with his imprints of tassels and embroidery.
