Designer Brett Johnson returns for a conversation on this Before Tacky episode. The Milan luxury fashion head talks about his vision for his label, the quiet luxury trend and the current state of the industry.
Milan Fashion Week Men starts on January 13th 2023. What is going to be the latest trend from the Italian city? A bit curious, I have not been to a mens week event since 2019. I am not just writing this cause of all the masculine models or encountering the sometimes “GROUCHY” press agents. Mens fashion weeks tend to be more intimate than the female counterparts.
In a conversation with Korean Fashion Designer Ko Tae Yong we speak about his influence and inspiration about fashion. Stay Tuned for the full interview.
Yes. I traded in another pair. I’ll give you the low down later.
Folsom Street Berlin came back this year. The leather Cirque du Soleil did not disappoint this year with looks or lack of at times. It was all in the spirit of fun at Europe’s largest leather festival.
Check out the Podcast Series Men Reloaded.
Before Tacky podcast talks to Phil Cody about his shoe brand Cody & Co.
Click below to watch.
A Black and Paper exclusive interview with Korean Fashion Designer Avizmo Jo, creative head of De_caffeine homme. What attracted me to his brand were his outerwear pieces. I wanted to ask what inspires his designs and collections.
The looks for the Fall Outerwear, three buttons and lapel, where did you develop this idea?
Planning and inspiration for this season’s collection was the fabric flow that occurred
when the general form of clothing was raised tightly.
By organizing the form that was created so that there was no inconvenience to the human body once again, we confirmed that the interesting form appeared again and used it
as a detail of the collection.
In the main look jacket and coat, the center of the clothes is connected with a long zipper
so that it is locked to the bottom of just below the neck.
Buttons were used only as decorative elements to create objects that made the design more prominent.
Your SS21 menswear tops are not conventional, is there a statement behind this?
SS21 is a new reinterpretation of traditional Taylor jackets and shirt designs, which I think are also traditional in another sence.
Like our design philosophy, we acknowledged the beauty of traditional forms, changed it anew, and emphasized it again in a sharp and modern style.
Why did you design the SS 21 collection with symmetries in mind?
The reason why I chose asymmetry is because I think it’s interesting to see what happens when you wear disproportionately to the human body, with the weight of the fabric on both side and shoulder widths different.
The asymmetric collar of the shirt is also the same image.
Do you think men should take more chances with their style choices?
Yes. I think there should be no restrictions on men’s fashion. There will be a style that we can suggest for each individual’s individuality.
The 20th century art movement Dadaism, in the 21st century, what does this mean to you in terms of fashion?
The Neodadaism I seek is closest to the explanation that otally disconnect what was once a form of social role from its original location and at the same time, it is trying to confuse the value it has and then bring it into
the new value system.’
I think that recognizing, understanding and reusing existing roles here has a positive effect. Adding my design to a design with traditional values is creating new values and giving a new role.
Stay tuned for more interviews with global fashion designers on our web chat show “Before Tacky”.
Milan Fashion kicked off in the virtual mode this season. We the world under some form of lockdown, buyers and press are unable to travel. The Italian fashion capital put its best foot forward but going direct to the point. Filming closed runway shows instead of Calvin Klein Commercials. I want to say “Thank You”.
It’s easy to spot the trend this season: staying home. All is casual. For Italian designers this could be a blessing in disguise. Comfort took center stage. Using quality fabrics and relaxed looks that could transition from home office to going out for a stroll worked on many levels. It felt a bit as if the designers are under less pressure with some reinvention in their minds. Is a new classic emerging?
It is always fun to attend Pitti Uomo. The Dandys or Peacocks walking around showing off their looks are impressive but at times some looks felt overdone. We think what makes a great look is if the looks seem effortless not like a math equation.
Stylist Gianni and I share share our views from Florence.
More from Pitti Uomo. Stay Tuned.
At the Aqualux Hotel during the “What to Wear In August” shoot there was a moment of inspiration. We decided to act. The hotel has an outdoor barbecue night with live entertainment. Guitar player Simone Clementi performed some sets with his singing partner in front of dinner guests.
1.Borsalino Hat & Robinson Les Bains Swimwear
2. Spring Jackets by Doppiaa, Bag by The Brigde, Jacket by RRD, Shoes by Swims
Musicians tend to have a natural sex appeal about them. Creative energy adds points. Simone kindly agreed to our offer.
Robinson Les Bains Swimwear, Shirt by Massimo Alba, Sandals from Ellesse
For the second day of production we decided to use him. Besides having a slightly edgy look matched with his approachabilty. The guitarist maintains a lean figure working out everyday while watching his diet. He said he has been happy with the results.
As a music maker Simone tours with the group Logic With Terror. Check his Facebook page for news and dates.
1.Sweater by Massimo Alba, Farah Shorts, Ron Dorf Swimsuit, Shoes by Swims
2.RRD Swimwear and Shirt
3.RRD Swimwear
Photographer-Ivan Siggillino, Assistant-Simone Toson, Make-Up and Hair Style-Lorena Palmieri
Shot the Aqualux Hotel, Bordolino, on Lake Garda Italy.