The next part from our From Milan With Love production shot by Flora Marcella Cusi. Model Gabi Thiam is wearing Hats by Borsalino and Coat by luxury brand Fay.
Stay Tuned for Part 3
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Pt2 From Milan With LOVE
Tag: Mensfashion
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A Musician Turned Model
From the 2019 Archive. During our editorial shoot at the Aqualux Hotel in Italy we met musician Simone Clementi. We grabbed him to pose for a few shots.
The Black and Paper Team: Pics by Ivan Siggillino, Asst-Simone Toson, Make Up-Lorena Palmieri. Shot on location in Itay.
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No Need for Luxe
Every season, two times a year, I hit the luxury stores. Sale Season! Those words are music to my eyes, hard on the wallet. Always updating the wardrobe on a budget.
This year, like everything, things are a bit strange. Only a few customers allowed in the stores with fewer sales people.
I noticed the trend, lux mixed with streetwear. Few brands have transitioned well. I would say some pieces were ugly. Saying this in front of a 50% off sale sign is a statement. In the past, going to a select store was a treat. I could not wait to a designer look.
Something happened this year. I traveled to the centers of Hamburg and Berlin for the special occasions. To my surprise, I found nothing I wanted. Walking from one top brand store to another, nothing hit me. ( Later, I will tell you about the service in a few places.)
Kadewe and Alsterhaus department stores, temples of consumption where all is offered under one roof. Being there inspired me to write this article. What happened to the big brands? On shelves one after another, the numbing sensation overwhelmed me. Some items came across as cheap at 1000 euros. Overpriced H&M production models. High fashion was about being distinguished, exclusivity. I am not an elitist, but somewhat of a fashion style snob. When there is a good markdown.
Perhaps in the New Normal my motivation for buying has changed. Why do I need this or that? Life and work wardrobes center on Zoom T-Shirts.
There is still hope. I decided to buy a bag, and a scarf from independent luxury labels. The pieces are more original, more details.
We spoke with fashion Editor in Chief Alex Popov on the upcoming trends in menswear. What to expect?
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Still Not the Same
The “New Norma”l is not normal. Berlin is feeling the psychological impact of the Coronavirus. Although the German capital has not been as hard hit compared to other regions of the country, the effects cut across the city.
Stores have opened, yet people continue to stay away. The retail experience is almost a prozac nightmare. Cordoned off areas of stores, lines to enter, no dressing rooms, mandatory wearing of face masks.
The Major Fashion Weeks are over. The trend forecasters are writing what we should wear this coming season.
I have never been a big follower of fashion trends regardless of what the runways says. Style is what you wear. How you wear the looks. Go with what is comfortable for you. Never worry about the latest colors or cuts. Individualism means being different. Buying what everyone has in their closet says “follower”.
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McQueen at MFWM
When I saw Alexander McQueen on the Milan Fashion Week Men, of course I made the trek to minimum studio space. I must admit I do not wear the brand. But the brand’s expressive statement wear has influenced on the fashion world.
Now, this collection was about suit for Fall 20. An interpretation of suits, work jumpsuits, and jackets.
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Never Enough!
A person can never have too many shoes in the closet. At Pitti Uomo, these are a few I would like to see on my rack.
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Milan Fashion Week Men
Part one of our coverage from January’s 2020 Milan Fashion Week Men. Alexander McQueen and other London Fashion brands were on hand for the week. Overall, I would say the week came across as calm, no major shifts this season on the menswear front. I would not say a lose of direction, but a pause to find a direction. That is a good thing.
Nicolas Daley Collection 
Massimo Alba 
Eleventy 
Santoni 
Collini bag 
London Room 
Alexander McQueen 
Collini Shop 
Billionaire 
Tods 
Missoni 
Tods Presentation
Stay Tuned for More coverage.
Subdued
I enjoy going to Pitti Uomo in Florence in January. It’s working blended in with pleasure. The historical city is romantic, charming, and pleasing to the eye. The best characteristic about Pitti Uomo is the atmosphere. Mens outfits of the day take center stage. Dandy’s dressed up showing off their best looks, always up for a conversation about what they are wearing.
This year the bi-annual menswear gathering felt a bit subdued. Low-key to the point of average. What Happened? I am not so sure. Many brands pulled back this year. Instead of celebrations, somber reflection took place.
It Had to Happen
I had conversations about Barneys New York. The luxury department store had been floundering for a while, but there was optimism it would pull through. Not this time, the bankruptcy hit home. An earthquake felt around the mens fashion world. If this one, who is next? Barneys championed new brands. A place to test trends. The menswear buyer was well known at Pitti Uomo, always talking to designers and labels about their collections. No more! The New York iconic flagship store has “Going Out of Business” and “Everything Must Go” signs on the doors and windows. More thought provoking, nothing has emerged to take Barneys place. Making it harder for new designers to break into mainstream consumer conscienceless.
There were gems of course at Pitti Uomo. I visited Japanese shoe designer Kanpekina. His footwear makes me tingle. A second Japanese designer I met, Kunihiko Morinaga from Anrealage, produces many unique menswear pieces. Especially stunning are his statement patchwork looks in the form of jackets and polo shirts. The finish and rich details demonstrate luxury tailoring.
Impressed
Florence is a city of Grand Settings. I have had the privilege of visiting a few during Pitti Uomo. The most impressive presentation was by Brioni for its 75thanniversary. The luxury brand wanted set the scene for luxury, a Florentine Palazzo. Six rooms with a chamber concert musicians wearing the latest looks. Take That Downton Abbey!
Stay Tuned for more on Pitti Uomo.