From Florence Italy during Pitti Uomo, this spontaneous podcast happened while walking to another appointment. I met Felipe Fiallo while the Italian shoe designer was discussing his collection.
I grabbed a tablet, then asked him to go over his footwear designs.
Designer Victor Hart from Bologna gave a fast interview about his denim line. Stay tuned for the video story.
The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein. After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head. Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand. Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape.
Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.
After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world. Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018. What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left. After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.
Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK. The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier.
I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head. The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired. The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity.
The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.
Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.
Today another creative head departed from a big house. Keeping up with who is where, for how long is getting harder. This time Sabato De Sarno “quit” Gucci after only two years. It is no secret the Italian Fashion House has struggled in the past years. Sales have fallen to the point of panic for parent company Kering as buyers turn to other labels.
Kim Jones walked away from Dior. The shocking news came right after presenting his latest collection in Paris for menswear week. The British born designer made a mark at the top of the heritage house with a modern interpretation of tailored pieces.
There was a time in the fashion business when longevity matter, not anymore. Taking the job as a head designer should come with a stylish 48 hour bag.
A quick conversation on fashion from Florence at Pitti Uomo with Ilario Esposito and Taiwo Meghoma.
@blackandpaper A fashion and style report from Florence. #pittiuomo #menswear #styletips #mensfashiontips #suits
♬ original sound – Blackandpaper
At Pitti Uomo, the words new technique are applied to the Japanese textile houses and brands. The final feel of the pieces shown in Florence is a bolt of blue. The JQ exhibit in the center building is always fascinating because of the way the fabrics feel: light and fine. The same question: How? The way the producers handle cashmere and silk should motivate designers to study the material process in Japan. Why these shirts and suits are not sold in major stores in the West is a mystery.
From Milan Fashion Week Men, luxury fashion brand Brett Johnson showed off a new collection with a new slant on details using lavish materials.
We are covering Pitti Uomo January 2025. We will have all the latest trends in menswear style.
Pitti Uomo starts tomorrow from Florence. Check out three Before Tacky fashion podcasts from last year.
