Pitti Uomo Starts January 9th. The Florence fashion event is a where mens style trends start.
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Coming Soon, Pitti Uomo 24
Tag: Menswear
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Soft Luxury Fashion Wink
Luxury fashion buyers are forsaking flash for quiet luxury. I call this trend “the wink cause we know the cost of a piece.” Brunello Cucinelli continues to reap the benefits of the consumer shift to luxurious quality. According to business site Bloomberg, the Corciano, Italy based fashion house upgraded its sales forecasts after outpacing Gucci and other pricey labels.
Cucinelli has been about rich fabrics over classic design reinvention, a traditional approach relying more on style endurance than fashion for the moment. The brand appeals to wearers who are there, not trying to fake it.
Fall 2023 looks from Brunello Cucinelli
Press days are always an interesting moment in the fashion business. These are times when professionals and non-professionals a like trek around the city to press agencies to go over represented clients and brands in more details. For me, I am either inspired or informed. For the upcoming season, inform sat in the driver’s seat.
Amazon Fashion, ?yes?, you read it right. When I got the invitation, my expectations were not high. When I entered the apartment, I asked ?What is Amazon Fashion, Help me understand!? The mega e-commerce site has moved into selling high-end fashion. The bigger surprise was why would desired brands sell on a site known for cut rate prices for everything from books to dog collars to grey brands. The Bellevue, Washington tech giant enlisted social media influencers to appeal to Generation Z’s as an aspiring shopping destination for HUGO and Armani Exchange pieces. Well, Jeff Bezo did not earn $200 billion by making the wrong bets. But then again, who remembers Fire? The Amazon smartphone that came and went.
The second bit of information I was told, Danish corporation Bestseller is introducing a new menswear label aimed at affluent customers. Annarr means ?the next one? in the Norse language. A curious venture for Bestseller, whose subsidiaries include fast fashion staple Jack&;Jones, it means a gamble if clientele want a buying less but better quality. Four collections per year, carefully curated with looks influenced by Copenhagen casual style with a promise of layering abilities. Annarr arrives in stores in Spring 2024.
In the shock and surprise category, G-Star Raw has a 1,200 euro jacket. Normally, one does not associate a luxury price with a known streetwear brand, but as different segments of the fashion market converge in other categories such as trainers and t-shirts, the Dutch label has made a play in the luxury category.
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A Style History
The history of wearing a hat and why from Simone at Borsalino Milan.
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Quiet As It Goes
Monograms are out. Quiet and soft are in. Fall 2023 has arrived, the looks for the up coming season focuses on not being a walking fashion brand billboard. The exact time of this style transformation escapes me but be warned, having BALENCIAGA on your chest is déclassé.
Menswear returned to a more classical approach. Gender fluidity trended on the catwalk, but sales became another matter. Guys are retreating to what they wear best. As Gucci and other disciples of showing it off looked for creative heads, the under the radar quiet brands have hit the mark with shoppers.
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Suave Fall Looks
Check out the Fall pieces for 2023 that set an inspiring attitude.
Superstar Yoshiki and Pommery Champagne held a launch event in Berlin at the top of the Waldorf Astoria. The musician collaborated with the house for a luxury sparkling wine based on his passion for bubbly.
For this Before Tacky episode we spoke to Japanese musician about when he drinks Champagne and some quick words on fashion
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Pharrell on the Paris Catwalk
Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection debuted on a spectacular scale. The Pont Neuf bridge was the setting for the musician, now a full-time fashion designer, to show off his version of luxury looks. Virigil Abhloh’s death left a big hole to fill. When the Virginia native was made head of the famed house in February, eyebrows hit the ceiling. Williams’ limited experience and lack of training felt a bit out of sync with the demands needed to be a creative head. The multi-nominated artist has street cred with his label, Billionaire Boys Club. The streetwear brand is celebrating its 20th anniversary.
Going to a fashion show in some cases is not about the fashion but about who is attending. Jay Z and Beyonce sat next to LVMH head Bernard Arnault. LV brand ambassador Rhianna hit the front row with baby bump and husband A$AP Rocky. Throw in supermodel Naomi Campbell, singer Lenny Kravitz, actress Zendaya. It pays to have famous friends, add in all the resources a $20 billion corporation with the Paris landscape as a backdrop, a choir, band and symphony, this event was spectacle worthy of Imperial Rome.
Looking over the numerous looks strutting over the Seine River, suddenly I had flashbacks to downtown Los Angeles. There was a guy who sold who sold fake designer clothing from the back of a truck. If a buyer wanted to try on the pieces, the alley way was the changing room. All transactions were cash only, no questions asked.
Not a Capsule Collection
Granted, Pharrell had only had three months to put together a collection. Looking over the pictures from June 20th, I saw recycled archives with new colors along with a homage to 90’s Ghetto Fabulousness. The absence of subtlety and lack of elegance struck because buyers want quiet luxury, toned down pieces of high quality. Secondly, there was no demonstrative style longevity with this collection. A fashion creative head needs authenticity, not the feeling of a capsule collection collaboration produced for a quick trip to the bank.
A person could be forgiven for thinking they were watching a garish indoctrination ritual. Logomania took over the catwalk in every color, shape and size, from bags and trunks to leather track suits with prints, suits with square patterns, pixel prints and knee length shorts with jackets.
I am willing to give Pharrell a second chance to reevaluate. Perhaps he will grow into the job. If not, the hit song maker still has his first career as a fallback.
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Driving, Need An Accessory
Check out the quick style tip from Andrea Muzzuca of The Outlierman.
The second part of the Before Tacky Podcast with Borsalino Head of Styling Jacopo Politi and Actress Eugenia Kuzmina talk about the Headwear design and what goes into making an amazing hat.