Bally
Running from opulent evening wear to sportswear, Bally’s Fall 2017 collection consisted of purple double breasted coats, tartan blazers, and two piece suits with bow ties influenced by the GO-GO 70’s of clubbing with Mic and Bianca Jagger. Metallic slip-on shoes with oversize buckles, animal print bags were accessory highlights.
Damir Doma
During Milan Fashion Week the Black and Paper visited the Damir Doma showroom for a look at the brands latest collection.
Mr. Doma stayed true to his brands philosophy with a mixture of knitwear and leather materials this season combined with rebel shapes. The Fall 2017 looks were dominated by rustic colors with in soft hues.
Black and Paper Re-See of the Gucci Fall 2017 Collection.
The looks presented this season were inspired by the fantasies of Alessandro Michele. There were 100 looks with many pieces ranging from oriental umbrellas to my personal favorite, sheer suits. Feeling a bit like a couture collection, there were many rich details and embellishments, ranging from embroiled pearls on cuffs and male cut out pants suits. Gucci is a brand of accessories, and all were on hand from the new bag with a symmetrical cut and flats in a gladiator style made of styles or the jacquard shoes. There was no overall universal theme this season, except using every color in the spectrum; while I was going over the looks, I was reminded of the cover of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, fun, optimistic, creative from a designer who is looking to the future.
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Black and Paper coverage in Milan. Quick images and write ups from Milan Fashion Week. Stay tuned for more coverage.
Casadei-Mr. Casadi was tamed this season in a way but I liked the thigh high boots.
Ultrachic theme this season was Back to School with humor.
Celebrating it’s 90th anniversary, Furla stayed with strength by launching variations of the MyBag, a playful collection handbags with different flaps.
Vladimiro Gioia’s collection of furs might not be for the politically correct but his other looks of organza and silk hit the spot.
Fratelli Rossetti decided on personality this season for the new collection. I am excited to see the brand break out of the comfort zone. It is a masculine collection yet still classic.
A label making strides with its own definition of femininity veering towards the masculine side. I was pleased with this collection.
Roberto Cavalli decadence rock&roll looks are for the adventurous, the label never disappoints.
We are feeling very excited about Milan Fashion Week Uomo with up to date commentaries and features on the latest happenings from designers, accessories, and models starting on January 13th.
Pedro Pedro
Pedro Pedro attended the Academia de Moda do Porto before creating his own brand in 1998. He is the winner of the I Mode European Fashion Awards 03 in Brussels. Pedro Pedro looks have been featured in Vogue, Elle, and Collezione Dona.
For his 2017 collection Pedro Pedro held a runway show during Milan Fashion Week. He gave the Black and Paper an interview after to describe the collection and his inspirations.
The opening pieces were breezing then moved to muted tones, why?
The theme was all about a David Lynch movie named “Dune”, and it’s located in a post apocalypse world dominated by a great desert, so that’s why it goes to sandy shades of beige and pastel colors.
Being from Portugal, how does this influence your outlook on clothing?
We are living in a Global Age where the information flow is the same for everybody, access to the same news and images at the same time. So maybe my approach to a particular theme is as particular as me being part of this country, Portuguese sensibility of style.
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What was the design approach?
I think the theme asked for this kind of approach, usually I like to show a cooler, looser shape and this time I went further with adding asymmetrical details in a fluid and softer materials.
Soft feminine looks were central to the collections, do you feel woman are moving away from gender neutral looks?
I am big fan of mixing gender and I always have a masculine approach into my designs. Mostly there are some tailored coats, parkas and trousers that can be ambiguous.
There were no accessories this season, all was clean.
There were some styling effects with basic bags designed by me and a partnership with shoes manufactures, those were also designed by me.
for more information go to:http://www.cristianoburani.it/
Cristiano Burani is a Milan based designer of head of his eponymous label. Known for his use of vibrant colors in his collections, Burani studied fashion design at New York City’s Parson. He has worked for Versace Jeans Couture before moving to Blumarine. His first collection debuted in 2010 in Milan with the support of Vogue Italia and Camera Nazionale della Mode Italiana.
Cristiano gave an interview to Black and Paper after his Spring/Summer 2017 collection fashion show.
Your collection went from dazzling stripes to a sophisticated suit, (Look 34) why?
My fashion show is about the expression of the same woman in different times of her life, from day wear to holiday to evening cocktail. I like the idea of being eclectic and switching from casual to “elegant”, always with cool attitude.
What inspired the collection’s theme?
The Collection is inspired by my love and sensibility for colors. There is a combination of sporty details together with feminine shapes layered with a lot of technology in the new pleated and over printed fabrics.
When a woman wears a look from this collection does she want to get noticed?
A woman wearing my collection doesn’t necessarily want to be noticed. She has consciously decided to wear unique and exclusive pieces entirely made in Italy, with a semi couture process. That is what makes all the looks so special.ter
What was the material used for looks 11 to 15?
The material used for the two plain outfits is viscose chenille. I like the idea of using leisure fabrics for a suit which are between smoking jacket looks and pajamas but with a sporty reference.
The oversize belts are a great detail, how did you develop those?
The oversized belts are another sport reference. They are entirely stitched by hands using grosgrain ribbons of various different widths.
I am still absorbing Milan Fashion Week but I look back on it with great fondness. I am looking forward to the next one.
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Stay tuned for my upcoming reviews on all the looks.
Milan Fashion is timeless elegance based on a clean aesthetic.
Antonelli Firenze
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