Our online coverage from Milan begins today.
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Milan Digital Fashion Week
Tag: Milan
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Will Anna Stay?
The famous silhouette at Fashion Week for the past 32 years. The perfectly coiffed helmut hairstyle. Oversized sunglasses. Statement Necklace. Calf-length dresses. Admired, feared, and copied, Anna Wintour commanded attention. Whether on purpose or not, when she entered the room her presence was felt far and wide.
As the daughter of famous newspaper editor Charles Wintour, publishing runs through her veins. Vogue USA sits at the top of a diminishing fashion magazine landscape besieged by the digital platforms. Now the resurgence of Black Lives Matter has placed the once venerated title and its editor in a cross hairs. As the pressure mounts for a more socially responsible outlook, many want answers about the lack of diverse voices in the fashion field, particularly at Vogue. Will Anna Survive?
The “C” Word
In Anna’s defense, her first cover model was Naomi Campbell in 1989. But, in 2020 the entire organization feels like a social club trapped in an episode of “Mad Men”. First, Andre Talley, former Vogue Editor at Large, released excepts from his book calling Wintour “A Colonial Broad”. OUCH!
Side Note: I plan on reading Mr. Talley’s book “The Chiffon Trenches”. I have some questions with a raised eyebrow concerning his new found “Identity” and “Sour Grapes” tell all.
I cannot remember a designer or creative of color championed by her or anyone at the publication. Based In New York City, I fail to see why it was difficult to find a Black Photographer. It took singer Beyonce to insist on one for her cover shoot. Former African American staff members (the few who worked there) complained of bad treatments and lazy stereotypes.
Can She Stay?
If a letter to Vogue staff on lack of support for African American Staff members was suppose to put out the fire, it only threw gasoline on a flame. Conde Nast Chairman Roger Lynch during a staff phone call defended the embattled Editor in Chief. Stating, “Wintour is staying put”. But with opens calls inside and out insisting on her resignation, it is hard to see how this corporate position is sustainable.
How will fashion handle this increasing awkward relationship? A one time asset suddenly has the potential of being a liability at fashion week. Social Media could be unforgiving if that scrutinizing silent gaze is sitting front row.
My Thoughts
As for my real opinion. It was no secret many publishing houses were and are cultural insensitive. I would not have met the “hiring profile”. Vogue USA never impressed me on the creative level. It did not take risks. Nor did I find it particularly stimulating or at the forefront of style. It was about the establishment. Who made into the club. However, guilty as charged, I read the September issue.
Earning a reputation for control, Anna Wintour has learned as the rest of us, no one is in control during these times.
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Music For Hope
Andrea Bocelli gave an Easter Concert for “Hope” in Milan Italy. In front of the famed Duomo. The tenor streamed the uplifting event of “Hope” via YouTube. Bonelli’s foundation is engaged in raising funds for hospitals. The accompaniment included AVA MARIE and AMAZING GRACE.
With Milan still in lockdown, this is an expression of “We Will Triumph Over This”. Yes, we will. Seeing Milan again is on my wish list.
Stay Positive! Stay Safe!
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#Milano Never Stops
Italy is reeling from the Coronavirus outbreak. As fate would have it, I was in the country at the time. The Lombardy capital, Milan, went under lockdown. Suddenly a feeling of panic overcame Fashion Week. A deep sense of unease rippled through out the metropolis. All went silent. Milanese stayed indoors. The bustle stopped.
CNN recently added salt to the wound by reporting “affected Global areas from Italy”. Not cute in my opinion. Another example of the channel’s Airport Lounge journalism lacking context.
Recently, the fashion house Etro launched the #MilanoNever Stops campaign to promote a positive spirit for an always proud city.
This is from the brand’s Instagram Account:
MILANO NEVER STOPS: ETRO gifted a statement T-shirt to its friends, who were born in Milan or who chose Milan as their home, as a message of positivity and hope. Not available for sale.
ETRO decided to give its contribution to the ASST Fatebenefratelli Sacco Hospital, supporting the scientific research, led by Professor Maria Rita Gismondo and her team, to help overcome this moment of global difficulty.
When the next fashion week happens in Milan. We will be there supporting a city that has been good to us.
Milan Mens Week start June 20th.
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Sparkling!
There is always time for a Sparking Moment in Milan during Fashion Week.
I met Flora Cusi during Milan Fashion Week in September 19. The young bag designer debuted her new bag collection and brand, Yosono, to press and buyers. Engaging with new designers is always exciting because of the enthusiasm. Lastly, the chance to watch the person grow is rewarding. I hope she makes it.
I met Flora Cusi during Milan Fashion Week in September 19. The young bag designer debuted her new bag collection and brand, Yosono, to press and buyers. Engaging with new designers is always exciting because of the enthusiasm. Lastly, the chance to watch the person grow is rewarding. I hope she makes it.
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McQueen at MFWM
When I saw Alexander McQueen on the Milan Fashion Week Men, of course I made the trek to minimum studio space. I must admit I do not wear the brand. But the brand’s expressive statement wear has influenced on the fashion world.
Now, this collection was about suit for Fall 20. An interpretation of suits, work jumpsuits, and jackets.
I have visited Milan many times for Fashion Week. Seeing the proud city come to a panicked standstill made me sad.
An overview of Milan 
Normally Bustling, but the Metro Duomo was quiet 
2 passengers on tram 1 
Moscovo Station 
This is the main train station
This city will comeback. I will be there for the next fashion week.
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Quick Milan Impressions
When I arrived in Milan at the Malpensa Airport terminal I did not expect a scene from the “X-Files”. Global headlines have caught up to me. From head to toe wearing Hazmats, health officials were testing for the Coronavirus with digital thermometers. Welcome to Fashion Week. The week got even more interesting. My journey on the subway and trams. I suspected something was off when I got a seat on the subway. Sadly, the last two days of the fashion, the feeling became grim. Trade-fare visitors were sparse. Many exhibitors seemed more rejected lonely hearts club guests.
On the 23rdall Milan Fashion Week events were cancelled due to an outbreak north of Milan.
Fast Highlights 1
On Via Manzoni, Antonio Croce presented a collection based on the Southern California Sunset. What inspiration! I loved the strong sensuality. Sun drenched coats and suits and print coats filled the space.
When a fashion show opens up with the Italian Version of Lou Reed’s 1973 classic song “Walk on the Wild Side”. I should count on 70′ interpretations. I am a fan of Bea Arthur’s sitcom “Maude”. Her Finley character wore floor length vests. Cividini had a look in his collection inspired by this decade staple piece.
I do not associate Kiton with strong women’s looks. It is a brand known for suits and classic wears. The brand’s new bag has a BIG K on the opening clasp. A comment I heard, “Those who buy Kiton may not like such blatant monogramming items designed for social media. The sales will see. But there was one look I really liked for a Red Carpet styling, a two piece white pleated dress with sleeveless top.
A come back kid in the making could be Untied Colors of Benetton. The once household RTW brand has been knocked about over many years. With Jean Charles Castelbajac at the creative helm it looks there are some better more social media smart moves happening.
For sheer impressive theater, Fratelli Rossetti really went out the way to give an extra mile. At the Visconti Palace with models dressed in white on stage and trampolines with an added Piano Concert. PS, I want a pair of the embroided Brea shoes.
Stay Tuned for more coverage on Milan Fashion Week.
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Tiziano Guardini
An emerging designer, Tiziano is making strides in the Milan scene. Combining sustainable materials into wearable pieces he proves eco -fashion can be interesting as well as vibrant. Oversized pieces with long lengths was the running theme. Not bad, I will keep an eye on him.
Viewed at Milan Fashion Week.