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Fashion Feature

Bondage and Social

It had to happen sooner or later. Trying to be relevant at the time being edgy, the silk threads will hit the fan. Balenciaga, the French Fashion House learned the hard way. The Bondage Teddy Doll Toddler campaign crashed the same as if a German Leader singing Beyonce at a karaoke bar. The fall out continues, at present everyone is “reevaluating” their relationship with the brand.

Looking over the images, I wonder what happened to the filters. Certainly one person at the multi billion luxury clothier could see a yellow light. Yet, for some reason I have a feeling they coward, preferring to be another deaf person in the room of blind people. You have to understand, the fashion business is allergic to the truth. One contrary word to group think, banishment!

Gemma Gvasalia has a done a seven year job of transitioning the fabled label to the top of fashion league. Making collections tailored fit for Instagram. Getting big names not only sitting front row but also in the runway shows. Coveted $750 worn High Tops trainers fly out the store. The $1,300 mini bag has become a must have. Any wonder why no one challenges his opinions? Yet, even the Georgian born designer learned, “live by the Gram, you can die on the Gram.”

Eating a slice of Humble Pie never killed anyone. The statements coming from Balenciaga have been the same as a screeching bird with two broken wings. First, scrubbing its Instagram account with the exception of a statement posting. Then saying the production company was responsible for the content. Launching a million dollar lawsuit against the creative team. Throwing a borrowed bucket of gasoline on a fire does not extinguish the flame. Owe up the mistake. In a few days the world will move on to the next social media outrage.

As far as I am concerned, “yes” the pictures are in poor taste. But then again, I would never pay $750 for a pair of worn High Tops.

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Feature

Hard Reality of the New Reality!

The Coronavirus exposed the raw underbelly of modern society, an existence teetering on a cliff.   This event has forced everyone to look in the mirror.  

The online click culture is based on a labor exploitation, not the public relations releases preaching to us about new business models developed by brilliant guys.  

Leading institutions have gone into a default “Batten down the hatches” position. Leaders will not take responsibility for this Global Disaster. Although they knew about the deadly outbreak in December.   

The drive for market access clouded judgement.  Thus, resulting in decisions risking entire populations,  bringing whole economies to a crashing halt. 

The big question, duration of the lockdowns. Where they effective?   What type of society will emerge from these health hazard semi police states?  One thing is certain, Spain and Italy will be scarred.  The jury is out on the US and UK.  

What will society give up in exchange for safety?  Does Democracy have resilience? 

How should the world view China’s Leaders?  By process of elimination, the word ‘trust” is out.  

Why do celebrities carry high value?  Many appear desperate for attention while the world is on fire.   

The Coronavirus continues to up end the world in ways we could not imagine a few months ago.  Everyday the news reads like a bestselling thriller.   Take a deep breath before turning on the screen.   

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Fashion

Black and Paper Lifecast

Life is too short to be sooooo POLITICALLY CORRECT!

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Fashion

Toodles, Facebook?

Given the current crisis involving Facebook and CA, Black and Paper has decided to place its Facebook account on hold, no more postings for the moment. Although no laws have been broken, we feel the current level of trust is eroding on the social media platform. Why? It was an open secret about the Data Collection, a price all paid for using a free website, but Facebook continued to push the line and then crossed it without thinking of the consequences of its actions. Hubris has a funny way of biting the butt, even if you are tech giant with 2 billion followers. Facebook’s fatal mistake, taking its users for granted. Zuckerberg’s disarming “Everyday Joe” gray t-shirt cannot cover the fact his creation has become a bit of the creepy neighbor who leers through the peephole when you leave the apartment. Privacy for this company has become an inconvenience. Facebook has evolved into a neo-surveillance operation or serial stalker, wanting or desiring every detail of your life for the sole purpose of selling the information to the highest bidder.

Will we return to Facebook? We are monitoring the situation. Currently, we are looking at alternative sites, stay tuned.

Mark Zuckerberg is schedule to appear before US Congress regarding the Facebook and Cambridge Analytica Affair. The Federal Trade Commision and United Kingdom Authorities have opened investigations concerning its handling of personal data.

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Fashion Interview

A Life of Pictures Part 1

“We Russians are crazy and that is normal.”   This is a quote from my Q&A interview with Russian photographer Vladmir Sichov.  For over 30 years Vlad has covered the world of sports, politics, celebrity, and fashion before retiring.

Born in Capital City of Kazan, Tartarstan, 800 km from Moscow, Vlad bought his first camera in 1965 while studying at the university.  As he would tell me, “nothing really mattered after I started taking pictures.”  Street life in the Soviet Union was his subject.  Sichov was a member of the unofficial art scene of the Soviet Union.

In 1979, he emigrated to the West landing in Vienna then later moving to Paris.  While there famed photographer Helmut Newton saw his images prompting him to urge Paris Vogue to give Vladamir a tryout leading to a 2 year stint as a photographer for the publication.

In 1980, his stark pictures of everyday existence in the Soviet Union help propel him to become the most published photographer in the world with numerous editorials in magazines ranging from Life, Paris Match, and Brunte.

Having recently moved to Berlin from Paris, I met him for a café and a conversation about his extensive career filled with  fascinating stories about his life, capturing moments set against different historical backdrops.

Why did you become a photographer?

I lived between the rail station and market in an industrial city named “Kazan” in a country that no longer exists.   People were always walking by, now they drive, but back then life was at my window.  I bought myself a Soviet Camera, Zenit, when I was a student in University 1965 in a Jazz band playing the saxophone.  After I got my camera, I was hooked.   I had to buy black and white short end film stock from cinema students.  Kodak film was too expensive.

Pskovo-Pecheeky monastery, 1972.
Pskovo-Pecheeky monastery, 1972.

What was it like being a photographer in the Soviet Union?

I spent time in jail.  Many of friends were dissidents, not a part of the system.  I had exhibitions in my apartment of unofficial art from 1973 to 1979 with artists who were not accepted by the system.

Mikhail Odnoralov-022
Mikhail Odnoralov

You had to leave the Soviet Union.

“If you live in a cage you want to see what is outside.”  I did not have the privilege to leave because I was not in the circle.  You could leave for Israel so I got an invitation from there because I knew people.  I got to Vienna where I was stateless and had nothing.  When I had exhibitions in the Soviet Union diplomats came to my flat so I had friends from the outside.    I waited in Austria for a diplomat to smuggle my works to the West.   When I left the USSR (1979) a person could carry nothing except what was on your back.  I was the first photographer to leave the USSR with my archive.

After your time in Vienna you went to Paris?

Yes, straight to I met Sipa News Agency from there to Paris Match.  The editor liked my work. Back then the press was managed by people who had a passion for news, fanatics who worked 360 days of the year.

What is your connection to Helmut Newton?

Helmut saw my work in Paris Match.  He convinced Paris Vogue to give me a test shoot.  In the September 1980 issue I had 40 pages of Haute Couture.    Fashion was a new world for me.  During my life, my friends were people outside the system.   Then suddenly, I met Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, and Rykiel.

a1
Image of Vlad taken by Helmut Newton in Paris.

Part 2 of the interview coming soon