Tag: NYFW

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Fashion

Calvin Klein Returns

Calvin Klein

The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein.  After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head.  Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand.  Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape. 

Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.

I’m a sexual person, and that’s reflected in my clothes and my advertisements. Calvin Klein

After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world.  Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018.  What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left.  After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.

Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK.  The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier. 

I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head.   The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired.  The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity. 

The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.

Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.

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Before Tacky Fashion

Fashion Reviews

Fashion Week

Fashion Season is here with the big runway shows from the capital cities of style showing off their newest collections.

Looking over the designs, we have some opinions. Before Tacky is coming soon.

Fashion Week
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Fashion

Before Tacky on NYFW

NYFW

Taking on New York Fashion Week. Before Tacky commentators give their opinions on the Big Apple’s fashion scene this season. The likes and hates.

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Fashion podcast

Before TACKY!

Introducing our new web show on conversations with fashion creatives from around the world. We will get down to business with anyone who wants to talk. Stay Tuned.

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Fashion

Does Fashion Need This?

Is there a need for fashion week? Being fashion enthusiasts we have to ponder this question. I recently spoke to a TV editor. He said, “No way will I attend a fashion show”. As the world continues reeling from Covid 19 the need for a new wardrobe, questionable. September is fashion month. Normally this time of you, packing, invites, calling colleagues about where to meet. Not this time. I got a few live invites, but did not expect many.  

The First of the Big Four Fashion Weeks starts today.

As the numbers of infections increase in France, Italy, and UK, sitting in front row feels a bit oblivious. Bags, shoes, and complete looks to wear in front for a Zoom. The style effect gets lost from the neck down.

So many fashion related business face challenges. Models are no longer booked. Their agencies face closing.  Magazines struggle to fill ad pages. Retailers attached to life support. Customers fearful of loosing jobs, have less discretionary income.

 The future is not clear for all. One certaninty: the fashion industry’s day of reckoinig has arrived.

Stay Tuned for more on this subject.  And of course, Black and Paper will cover the fashion weeks. 

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Fashion

NYFW 2018 Review PT2

New York Fashion Week has ended. There were highs and lows but overall I think the fashion scene showed why it is in the Big 4 League, no questions asked. The city maybe the only place where commerce and experimentation can work.

Marc Jacobs has been in the headlines lately, many have been wondering if the designer has tired of fashion. Based on this collection, I think the answer is “No!” A fantasy of colors, shapes, and exaggerations. Bows, dresses, feathers, are the center of attention.

Maki Oh went physical and female with asymmetry dresses. The designer toned down the colors but revved up the cuts in a literal sense. It is as if she made a collection, then had fun with scissors on some pieces. I get it, in a good way.

Derek Lam had a presentation this season. This collection is good, wearable, for a professional woman. I hope he returns to the runway.

Gabriela Hearst is a brand without the hype but the looks many women would love. All is low key, the fashion is about complimenting the lady wearing the lux clothes, fitting the body.

French label Longchamp was all fringe for a collection inspired by the 60’s, short hemlines and all. I dig it!

Christian Siriano was all over the place. That can be a good thing and a bad thing. The menswear looks were not my cup of tea. The prints and flowers moods went from light to dark. Black morphed into florescent, 67 pieces (some I liked) in all that felt like a slide presentation controlled by a person taking too many pills before heading to the Bargain Club in Berlin.

Jason Wu held a presentation. The once golden boy of fashion is concentrating on his brand. I was not so impressed with the looks, feeling lifeless, no sparkle. I hope he regains his footing.

Rhianna held a lingerie show. I cannot critique it because the value was more theatrics than fashion. Plus, it fits with her brand.

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Fashion

New York Fashion Week REVIEWS

New York Fashion Week kicks off the season. “Diversity” is the key word but at times it feels like tokenism. The same as saying, “I have  a friend who is,,,,” and I invited him or her to the party. “Pat me on the back for showing how forward thinking I am. In the 21st century, welcome to 1970, please cue a cynical remake of TV show “Room 222”.  If you have to shine a bright spotlight on “diversity” it means something is entrenched in the system. The spot light is there to deflect criticism. In the Age of President Trump, a born and raised New Yorker, it feels like everyone wants to brandish their liberal credentials. Fashion Week is like a peacock spreading it feathers during mating season, showing off plumage. Look at us, embracing difference. It is welcome message of sorts but there needs to be substance, not media packaging.  What happens after Trump leaves office? 

Collections

Collections from New York Fashion Week for Spring 2019.

As a whole NY is about America, athletic, the physical.

Rodarte showed frivolity, frills, in a dark wonderland. I liked it. A welcome return to NYFW.

Prabal Gurung was color and give more color until sunglasses are needed, optimisitismis the heart of the collection.

Escada has returned to the fashion after many years away, some looks were better than the collection as a whole. It is still a brand in search itself, the looks reflected this.

Boss is in the post Jason Wu period, so the brand loosened up a lot. Did I like the looks? Some. Not all. At times it felt more Italian than German, then American, trying to appeal to many.

Proenza Schouler returns to NYFW after being in Paris. Whatever influenced them in Paris, it was not the elegance of the city. So many rigid looks bordering on uniforms. Thumbs Down!

Tibi went for the soft and gentle but genderless clothing was front and centered, but the collection is wearable.

Anna Sui shinning visual exotics catches the eye with so many prints, headpieces, kaftans.

Carolina Herrara’s new creative director Wes Gordon has big shoes to fill. Did he succeed? Almost There are many vibrant prints his collection but at times I felt overwhelmed. Gordon needs to learn how to pull back a bit, too much is too much!

Suzanne Rae went with florescent colors, fun. I was waiting for Molly Ringwald.

Badgley Mischka had red carpet stars in their eyes, preparing for close ups with Alice in Wonderland being the theme of the collection.

Oscar de la Renta proves why the label is still a standard bearer for NYFW. Simply put, making elegance look easy moving from day to evening from yellow to black, fringes to frills.

Libertine. One Jeremy Scott is enough but I admit I liked some looks, especially #2, jacket and leggings.

As a fan of 3.1 Phillip Lim I can be honest. I liked the collection. HA! Touches of the 70’s suggested a bit of liberation or a romantic adventure. The color scheme was neutral, soft whites, grays, and silvers.

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Fashion

New York Fashion Week Reviews

Collections I liked.

RiRi stole the show in many ways.  One for spectacle of presentation but on the collection front I liked the Fenty X Puma. I see success.  It is wearable and very today; the urban chic style will be everywhere.

Do not wear this collection to Church.  Linder decided on body aggressive.  One false move and the world becomes your gynecologists with some looks bordering on centerfold pin up.  The color palette was narrow but the choice of styles was wide including jackets, chains, and mid-section dresses.

Johnathan Saunders has the reigns of Diane Von Furstenberg, I am pleased.  I liked this collection because it was sophisticated, vibrant, and attainable. He threw on the colors, patterns and materials in so many forms from leather coats to denim inspired jackets, and the signature wrap dress.

Keep it light and airy seems to be Sies Marjan approach to making a collection that was breezy while colorful. Pajama inspired menswear, slip on dresses for ladies.  Her approach was based on simplicity.  It worked.

Confidence is what makes a lady so attractive.  Marina Moscone knows this judging by a collection that was made for a woman who has a lot going on.  Long flowing caftans, bell bottom suits are high points of the collection from the designer who came on the scene last year.

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Fashion

New York Fashion Week Opinion

Not sure what to make of Raf Simons and his Nightmare inspired collection at Calvin Klein.  It feels like the present climate has inspired him in a dark way.  Did I like the looks? Not really.

Brock Collection was lovely in the forms; feminine, soft, body hugging.

Ulla Johnson was effervescent with a lot of white linen.

Stay tuned for more opinions.

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Fashion

Raf Simons at Calvin Klein

Raf Simons made his debut at Calvin Klein during NYWFW.  I can honestly say I had no clue what was going on concerning the collection.  An iconic American brand in need of restart Mr. Simons with his pedigree was suppose to give a boast to the label,  make it Chic Again.

Simons first collection is a bit of everything looking for direction.  CK has been a brand known for minimalism, sexuality, and denim.

His interpretation of denim is to make it like a rigid Catholic School uniform.  The Minimalistic  looks were like crayons out of a box, a bit of a mess. The Sexy looks were more vulgar with the Nude Sheer Shirts for men.

I have high hopes for the designer even if this collection was a bit of a  misfire feeling like a vintage reworking. Raf’s  work at Jil Sander and his own label were the stuff of legends.