I love saying the name PUCCI! It conjures the glamour and expressive color of the 1960’s. Optimism ruled. The sense of tomorrow will be brighter day.
At Milan Fashion Week I stepped in to see what was new for Fall 2019. Prints and shaped colors continue to the unique aesthetic of the brand born in Florence during Post War Italy. Creative Director Peter Dundas still delights me by staying true to brand’s origins. In this day and age we need more optimism.
I have successfully worked with Cividini on many occasions. Styling on Red Carpets, casual looks for day wear, I had great success each time. As far as the collections, quality fabrics, classic looks shinning through. The wearer does not suffocate under the pieces.
Check out the videos below. The first is from Florence, the other from Milan.
I am a fan of Cividini. When I wrote “Conflict of Interest” about the brand I did not want readers to think because I have worked successfully with the team they influence my opinion of the looks. No! The pieces fit my style and what I would recommend. When it comes to dressing I lean to to understated side. Let the clothes speak. People who are in the know, know quality. There is no need for over the top monograms or labels. When I wore Cividini pieces in Paris, I got compliments. That is what I like.
In the Age when Influencers are paid for endorsements. I try to be authenticate.
An interesting presentation feminine, sensual. Albeit, sadly, the shoe designs lacked the “oomph factor”.
I recently paid a visit to my nearest IKEA. Usually these excursions are planned. They evolve into an outing. Dinner, and perhaps a dessert. The cafeteria is a busy mixture of every group from retirees, young families, to single nesters. After the final coffee we take the usual “see what’s new” walk. The stores one way track path layout means you have to see everything on offer. The store scenes change from one area to another. Ideals for a small apartment space, a new kitchen, to an office setting. When I walked from one section to section, it reminded me of the “It’s a Small World” ride at Disneyland.
As I was trolling at a leisure pace I could not help but admire the brands soft sell approach. Wondering other retailers have not evolved. Department Stores and shopping malls have become dinosaurs. Any wonder why they are headed for extinction? Reading a chapter from founder Ingvar Kamprad’s book should be required for all retail executives. A reinvention blueprint for mass retailing.
2019 is a constant flow of stimuli. Customers want to be scene but alone able to plug in a device. Ikea has all of this. The store offers surprises on every visit. As brick and mortar chains die an agonizing death it baffles me why many did not change course. The public still enjoys a day out of the house, however they prefer experience, not humdrum. Walking into many department stores, the descriptive word that pops to mind is “drab”. All offering the same items, the same brands, the same in store concessions. Working with formulas from the 20th century.. It is no wonder customers have been fleeing main street stores. Management blames customers not themselves for being unable to keep up with the times. However, if a Swedish furniture store can make profits, why can’t they?
Shopping involves more than just walking into a building. Buyers want an experience, to be a part of something satisfy different needs. I hope retailers can figure this out before it is too late. Todays shoppers have moved on.
This season was not the strongest for the Italian Style Capital. A moment collective crisis or a shift to what it does best. Backing away from mixing streetwear to more tailoring and Italian chic style.
Armani stayed in his lane. Cool blue and pink pastels, metallics, and fluid materials made up his 78 look collection. The jackets were sleek. The embellishment heavenly. Normally his collection are shown at the Armani Solo, but this time it took place at his the corporate address in the courtyard.
It is hard to write about the Versace show without mentioning J.Lo walking in the iconic Jungle Green Dress. It does not matter what I write about the brand. Donatella knows what her clients want and she gave it to them. The mini dress is my favorite.
Bottega Veneta, not my cup of tea. I love the bags but with this collection I could not transfer the emotion. The leather luxury brand mixed leather, with seaters along with an interpretation of streetwear. I will give Creative Director Daniel Lee another chance.
I talked about Jil Sander at another show. A fashion journalist told me how she admired co-designers Lucie and Luke Meier. The brand has been in the wilderness for a moment. Prints and embellishments in a Sander show are a shocker. This collection had moments, enough for me to look forward to the next.
Normally I am fan of Retro 60’s looks but Alberta Ferretti’s collection of suede, tie dye dashiki’s “let the sunshine in” looks fell flat at times.
Ermanno Scervino’s feminine looks came across as a man who likes women in his clothes. No overdone looks, just get noticed without a spotlight. Leathers with silk, some animal prints, and blues made for a classy collection.
Why so basic? Tod’s showed making looks that felt generic. Not a single look stood out.
Fila is more known for sportswear. As the lines are blurred brands are moving in all areas. Shock! I have to say, I liked its first runway collection. Sexy, wearable, sporty rolled into one.
Fendi post Karl appears to be in good hands. Quilted pieces, suede, leather, and cotton, made for an expressive collection.
I attended the Bally Presentation. The return to the casual luxury looks were welcomed.
A adventure in Fashion Glamour or a woman who is eternally cool. Etro blended both. I liked the collection of prints, colors, suits, and short hemlines.
My first impression of the Salvatore Ferragamo collection. The looks did not wow me but some were better than others. The monochromatic blues, beige, floral, and leather pieces grew on me.
Iceberg decided on the get scene by wearing pastels in a big way. The looks work incling the mini’s, denims, and swimsuits.
A special mention to Fashion Shenzhen for an intersting show of Red Carpet Looks. Many looks were details and intricate.
The German luxury brand Boos debuted in Milan. This collection felt like left over pieces from other designers, a fashion Frankenstein. Patchwork creations pieced together. If there was a brand DNA, I could not see it.
Milan Fashion Week is always about shoes. The city with so many designers never disappoints me on presentation visits. Whether a popular name or an up and comer, there are many stylized appealing footwear.
South American Inspiration from Stuart Weitzman
Floral and Animal Print from Giuseppe Zanotti
Traditional Style from Doucals
Glam from Jimmy Choo
Stay Tuned for more in depth coverage and reviews.
Milan Fashion Week was exhausting, a tight and grueling schedule. Many shortened presentations and events running alongside Fashion Shows made for eleven hour days. Once again the reliable Milan Metro System became my best friend.
As a whole, the Furla collection was a bit underwhelming.
The Milan Fashion Scene is under going a crisis, a type of creative insecurity. The feeling was more in a neutral space with designers venturing to the demure side. No designs stood above the rest. Moving away from creative statements, commercial needs take precedent. At the time of writing I am going over the looks from the runways and presentations. My opinion may change in the future, stay tuned.
Bulgaria Bags with the Scarab clasp. The embroided handbag was a key piece.
Fashion like any business needs new ideas, renewel. A source of my appreication comes from independent designers. Talking to them, seeing the designs inspire me. If they hit it big I can say “I met him or her when”.
Luxury brand Cinzia Rocca stayed true to the classic form this season while introducing new accessories.
From Sketchers, A 90’s retro look. Chunky Sneakers are a part of the brand DNA.
BrunoThe Chunky Sneaker trend continues to reign supreme. Every house and designer have answered the call. As a non-fan, it is hard to write good things about this. Walking around with a tank on my foot is not my ideal of style. What was once a niche footwear has now gone mainstream. The other streetwear piece niche now in the style conscience scene, the belt bag. The inescapable fashion accessory piece is a must have. Will I buy one? NO! They lack an elegance I look for a bag. Not complementing but portruding from the waist the same as a hernia.
Bruno Cucinelli soft looks are made for easy styling. Each cable knit sweater takes 36 hours to produce.
Lastly, Instagram Ego’s were not in short supply. The business of “Selfie Promotion” has gotten so large, many Carrie Bradshaw Wannabes’s brought partners to take pictures and videos to records their experiences. A few seasons ago they were welcomed, now attendees are visibly rolling eyes. Weariness! How many Instagram Influencers posting a picture of themselves can attend a show? If any out there think this is a full time career, my advice would be to start acquiring new skill sets.
Stay Tuned for more coverage.
Shoes are fabulous items. Some creations should be worn on the upper part of the body instead of the lower. During Milan Fashion Week, Aquazzura presented its Fall 2019 collection that gives the word “bling” a new meaning. My first thought, call Beyonce. Queen B needs to wear these on stage.
Creative Director and Founder Edgardo Osorio creates footwear for celebrating life. As a designer Edgardo confidently uses expressive colors to form his aesthetic.
Sponsored by #CanonDEU
The world has now become social media politically conscience. It is hyper connected movement of righteousness mixed with moral superiority. If iOS shuts down, heaven help the world.
Predicting what Millennials and Social Media want is hard. They post one thing to be a part of a movement but purchase the opposite in stores.
Sustainability clothing will not come cheap. Yes, we agree the world needs to change course but putting wallet where the values seems hard to reconcile, especially for a generation raised on disposable fashion. Can they change their consumption habits. Are Millennials prepared to give up the 1.99 t-shirts? Will they buy better and less? No more weekly shopping trips to main street stores for weekend looks only to end up in garbage heaps 1 week later.
The contridictions are glaring. Based on real retail sales, the picture is not so social media warrior clear. When given the choice of quality over quantity. Quantity wins. New shopping habits are required to save the world. Not just feel good speeches.
Fashion pieces in the past were sustainable. Pieces made of better quality. Secondly, styles changes from season to season were less radical. Eternal is no longer a design plan. This is not compatible in a world perpetually chasing followers and likes. Selfies require a constant source of clothing.
The Fashion Industry has taken up the mantle. Recently announcing sustainability, Earth and eco-friendly are now a part of corporate manifestos. Doing more to help the environment. Commendable. But what does it mean? New production techniques, an incentive for less customer consumption, longer product life cycle.
Yes, people are more environmental aware. Voices chanting. Marches across the globe. But the real change comes from the dollar or euro. Where the intentions go, the wallet should follow.
Valextra, the Italian handbag maker produces pieces based on luxury not overstated flash. Each bag makes a statement. I have been a fan of the brand for many seasons. The brand is a favourite of Oprah Winfrey.
Checkout the video from Milan Fashion Week.