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Fashion

The Fashion Musical Chair

The Fashion Musical Chairs Contest continue.  In one week, three brands made big changes.  Thankfully, I have a chalkboard to help keep up with who is where, just erase then add a new name.

When John Galliano took over as Creative Head of Martin Margiela, the British designer had come in from the cold after being ousted from Dior.  Ten years later the partnership has ended.  After months of rumors, Mr. Galliano announced his resignation from the Paris House.  Admittedly sad news, the 64-year-old brought a creative romanticism to the label.  The runway shows were fantasy run from surreal to vintage sumptuous fantasy of diverse materials.  There was no announcement on where John Galliano will go.  Perhaps, his own label or retire, we have to wait and see.

Margiela

Chanel finally announced a new head six months after Virginie Viard’s exit.  The uber luxury brand named Matthieu Blazy as the new creative head.  Coming from Bottega Veneta, Bailey will be in charge of ten collections a year.  I see a lot of energy drinks in the Belgium born designer’s future.  Chanel is more than a brand but a cultural tentpole for fashion and style.  How will Blazy interrupt the classic Tweed Jacket?   Recently, the Chanel runway shows have lacked the grand pageantry typical under Lagerfeld, possibly, the dull period in the Grand Palais is over.

As one designer leaves, another enters, Bottega Veneta placed Louise Trotter as Matthieu Blazy’s replacement.  Coming from Carven, a brand known for oversized looks and exaggeration, Trotter’s view with Italian Tailoring should be interesting. 

Fashion is about change.

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Fashion

Unpredictable, but I’m still going to Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo 2025 starts January 14th in Florence Italy.  The bi-annual menswear fashion trade fair showcases brands, style and trends from around the world. The fashion world faces strong headwinds as economies slow down, consumers cut back and geo-politics rattle business.  During a Zoom Call with Director of Communication Lapo Cianchi, the head gave one word, “Unpredictable” is the general outlook in the fashion world. The frank honesty was welcomed.  The business model for fashion trade show is being called into question. Since Covid, the attendance numbers have not recovered.  Even so, Pitti Uomo is a special gathering for men’s fashion lovers. 

With over 800 exhibitors signed, this upcoming apparel forum is an important event on the calendar.  MM6 from French house Maison Margiela hits the runway with “do not follow the rules” looks.   The other designer on the calendar, Satoshi Kuwata, comes to Tuscany with his label Setchu.  According to the brand’s web page “a fusion of two cultures” is the basis of the gender-neutral aesthetic.

Pitti Uomo Center
Center Court at Pitti Uomo’s Fortezza da Basso

Fashion and lifestyle concepts continue to evolve and merge.  Concepts of Community and Active Style of Living have emerged as consumers push more into experiences over brand linkage.  Producers, buyers and creatives seek shared passions with communal relationships and passions for the same ideas and values. 

Knees Up, a new concept store centered around Marathon enthusiasts has a prominent role at Pitti Uomo. The popular retail space located in East London offers fashion, coffee, sportswear and a place to recover from physical training.  Several athletic brands will exhibit with the first-time headliner in Fortezza da Basso.

The same questions linger, but have become more obvious. As customers move away from well-known masstige labels, will retailers take a chance on small brands?  Perhaps in these rattled times, a small bet can pay back big returns.   

Of course, we expect the traditional Dandy pageantry in the center courtyard.  

Pitti Uomo starts January 14th until 17th in Florence Italy. 

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Feature

The 47th Influencer

The Donald Trump influence on Fashion and Masculinity will be felt in the fashion industry.  Professionals should not underestimate the influence of a President’s outlook on style.  John F. Kennedy’s inauguration, the President went hatless on a cold January day, that styling decision placed a once accessory staple to the back of the men’s closet for a generation.  Men dropped the headwear.   Of course, his First Lady who needs no introduction, Jackie, is a timeless fashion icon.    

This election could mark an unexpected shift in many ways. People turned away from mass media for opinions.  Mainstream channels took a credibility hit.   Not only did they get it wrong by a September Issue Size Vogue issue, television commentators could not hide the disbelief on live television.   The fashion press misread voter sentiments, publications placed a bet on the wrong horse, then lost. What does that say about their insight?  No amount of deflection or no comments can cover up the scale of this pubic misread.  After putting Kamala Harris on numerous covers, no one expects Head Editor in charge Anna Wintour to have a public make up phone call to Melania Trump. 

Elle
Elle

Creative directors will need a rethink over the next months and years.  Since the term “gender” became a political toxin, consumers may move away from gender free fashion, out of style.  Sure, the houses can produce it. Who will buy the collections outside of four stores in NYC and SF? The marketing and messaging will take a different course.  Companies are ditching DEI initiatives faster than a Shein can copy a runway look.  Bottom line decisions trump social movements in boardrooms.   The 47th Unites States leader’s 75 million voters are too big a market to ignore.   

There could be a silver lining, style hope.   Brands could become counter reactionary, more underground.  The Gap was born in the counter culture of San Francisco.  The Mini Skirt shock off the feminine rigidity of the fifties.

The 47th head of the United States will leave an imprint on the way we dress, like or not. 

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Fashion

That Style in a Bowie Video

Rock superstar David Bowie wore a yellow suit in his 1983 music video single Modern Love. Everyone puts on black or brown. Only a confident man could wear this color and pull it off with such a level of finesse. After watching the concert performing video many times, this hue has been on my Style Bucket List for a long time. It’s time to cross this off the slate. With my fingers crossed for Spring 2025, I’ll be rocking like a legend.

Yellow Suit
Categories
Fashion

Time For The Fall Jacket Style

Adding an edgy touch to a Fall Wardrobe is easy just by wearing the right jacket.

ISTO Jacket
Isto
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Fashion

All Gussied Up

At the recent press events I attended, noticing the fashion tribe I wondered.  Why do they wear everything but the frying pan? Many were gussied up wearing all the labels from their shelves popping in and out of offices and showrooms. I wondered if there had been a looting at a luxury department store.   The pride of being kitsch while not understand the meaning of the word scares me.

Chanel’s quote is, “The last thing you put on, take off.” This has been lost on the Kill for TikTok crowd.   When at one time anyone with an eye could see quality and style, in today’s social media driven world standing out as if you were the Oscar Mayer Weiner Mobile at a 4th of July Parade means everything. 

It is sad to look dated after only two hours.  A great style is eternal.  Jackie O never wore a brand emblazoned on her chest. Before Covid, around 2018, many fashion houses redesigned logos to take advantage of the camera phone ratio in an attempt to attract younger buyers.  Monogramed mania took over the fashion industry. Every piece had to display a name.

The world had been hit with a name brand sledgehammer. The influencers, TikTokers wear everything all at once.  This embellishment veers to pathological bad taste.  Imagine stuck in a room with a person who has a big Louis Vuitton bag, Chanel glasses, oversized Balenciaga sneakers and a shinning Gucci jacket. I needed a certified CPA degree to track all the names.   How many of these items were fake?  No clue!

The shift to subtle fashion has taken place, however I do not think it has made its way to the younger crowd. “Bling” is still a way of life, showing off for the camera.  Thankfully, kitchen items do not have a YSL monogram on the side. 

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Before Tacky Fashion

Yoshiki in Paris

Masion Yoshiki showed at Paris Fashion Week for Spring 2025, going with geometric shapes and many mini hemlines the designer buttressed looks with black, white and pastel colors. According the press release, the Japanese Superstar paid homage to 60’s American Pop Culture with print dresses.

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Fashion

The First Impressions, Paris

For some reason Paris Fashion Week felt a bit desperate for attention this season.  Pandering is never good.   In the crowded landscape designers are under pressure to get that viral moment to stand above the rest. For this reason, some collections looked disjointed, a circle in a square peg.  Creatively, the City of Lights fashion scene has become overly vulnerable to smartphone scrolling.

Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week Valentino

The big news, Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino.  The stage setting fitting for the Rome born designer: dreams and romance. That was the problem.  Valentino was a brand of refined elitism. Jackie O to Joan Collins, the Jet Set Crowd wore the label as an emblem of being in a certain club.  Alessandro’s collection, while lush, comes across as garish compared to the house’s past styles.  While in doubt of the 51-year-old talent, his Gucci era heavily influenced looks on the runway.  It is no secret Kering Group invested in the house, perhaps a way to challenge Louis Vuitton in the uber luxury brand category, however, as soft luxury is trending with shoppers, why did they allow Alessandro to drive the opposite direction?  

Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week Balenciaga

Demna at Balenciaga continues to challenge what makes fashion, fashion. The French label is popular with young buyers.  The oversized sneakers were a must have for anyone under twenty-five.  The giant logo on shirts worked in the Selfie Age.  In 2024 the Georgian born returned to what he did best.  Oversized jackets that belong on a lifeboat and baggy jeans were runway staples.  Inner wear for the night, perfect for going to the 1920’s KitKat club. Do these looks work with young people looking for the lowest price on an app? Only the book keepers at Balenciaga know the answer.

Stay tuned for more fashion weeks coverage and more episodes of the Before Tacky Podcast.

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Fashion

Vivid From LA

Streetwear fashion label BruceGlen has an expressive take on streetwear. The Los Angeles based brand goes for vivid looks. I met twin brothers Bruce and Glen Proctor at the Milan Fashion Week Hub while the duo were showing some of the expressive pieces. Are these pieces a person would wear everyday? Who cares! As they said, “It’s about fun.”

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Fashion

Buying The Alternative Confidence

“Luxury bags make your life more pleasant, make you dream, give you confidence, and show your neighbors you’re doing well.” Largerfeld.

As the luxury handbag bubble pops due to working condition and mark-up scandals and over, there are alternatives to big brands. The labels I listed below are small, not mass produced, but more importantly, unique. A person carrying one of these pieces will get a lot of compliments.

While in Milan, walking by Up You To Anthology on my way to a Fashion Week appointment, I decided to go in. After speaking to the curator, he told me each bag is designed by artists with a limited production run.

Anthology
Up To You Anthology

During Pitti Uomo I always pass by the Sentiero Florence store. Looking in the window I decided to go in and see. The sales lady told me about the family owned label still producing handbags in Tuscany.

Sentiero Florence
Sentiero Florence
La portegna
La Portegna Madrid

I am recommending this brand because the online review have been good for this Madrid’s La Portegna. Spanish producers are known for quality leather goods.

Bonastre Paris
Bonastre

I met the Bonastre team at Pitti Uomo. As a small luxury brand the designer and staff have close relationship all aspects of the Paris based label from design to the final product.