Fashion designer Brett Johnson talks about creativity in this Before Tacky Brief.
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Tag: ootd
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Is Paris the Same Place?
Traveling to Paris for Fashion Week can come across as glamour meets pretentious. However, for this visit, clothing was front and center. We hit some shows, but decided to focus on behind the scenes by getting the low down on the business and trends. Designers, press relations and stores gave us opinions on topics ranging from shopping experiences to the quiet luxury shift. The industry is going through some changes.
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Pandabuy’s Open Secret
The Fake It Till You Make You culture took a hit on Wednesday. The Chinese fashion platform Pandabuy got raided by police. The popular app is known for selling clothing at low prices. The open secret, many fake luxury goods purchased find their way to global influencers. TikTok accounts littered with newly purchased designer labels displayed with so much glee, even Ryan Gosling would need sunglasses. Never mind the source of the clothing. That questionable Dior bag sales for $176 dollars. Why pay 1500 dollars for the real thing? Sixty dollars for a pair of Valentino Sneakers is a steal, no questions asked.
Talking to a professional colleague about the Pandabuy story, this reflects the modern zeitgeist. External validation not with a brand, but with an imitation. Striving for likes and clicks, openly flaunting faketry has no shame.
Recently, while attending some fashion press events, I noticed many Gen Z and Millennials attendees with emblazoned monograms on jackets, shirts and bags. Wondering how so many could afford wearing thousands of dollars on their back, questions answered. The e-commerce site understands its customers. Pandabuy targets young digital content creators who pitch what to buy.
Shutting down one fake site, “with demand comes sellers.”
The rise and fall of fashion wonderkid John Galliano was a magical story of success. Championed by industry heavy weights as a visionary, Galliano gave the world frivolity on the runways of Dior. However, under the surface of smiles, showmanship and Champagne toasts lurked an individual coming off the rails.
Academy Award winning director Kevin Macdonald stripes away the gloss, putting the former Givenchy fashion house head front and center of a documentary film about a man trying to his road to redemption.
Check out the Before Tacky Podcast on the film.
The musical chairs continue in the fashion world as yet more creative heads have departed major houses. I was in a state of shock when Pierpaolo Piccioli exited as head of Rome brand house Valentino after twenty-five years. The couture label epitomized glamour with its monochromatic pink looks and feathered head pieces. All great rides come to an end. Piccioli’s clock rang. However, the clock was ticking. When powerhouse Kering bought 30% of the house in July 2023, changes were coming. As a media sweetheart, Valentino matched Louis Vuitton with celebrity filled fashion shows in Paris. As a major sales force, the numbers came up short. Enter the former Kering alumi and past darling Alessandro Michele. The once head of Gucci has been given the task make the sixty-four-year-old brand commercially relevant. It is a curious mix of bling meets classical style. It will be interesting to see the next evolution of the big V logo brand in Spring 2025 collection
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Ouest Paris makes a Menswear STATEMENT
From Florence at Pitti Uomo, Arthur Roberts from menswear Ouest Paris talks about his brand’s combination of Hedonism and Space Age influences.
Click below for the Before Tacky Podcast interview.
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Fashion at 0331
At Milan Fashion Week in the HUB, start-up label 0331 had a display in the new designers section. The Milan creative collectives started the brand with sustainable practices, up-cycling used denim to new forms.
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Pilati Talks
“WORK IS NOT WORK IF YOU LIKE IT“, PILATI
Fashion designer Stefano Pilati gave a talk during Milan Fashion Week at Istituto Marangoni on his career and the state of fashion. The Italian born former head of YSL spoke about practicing patience for young designers, not thinking success will come immediately, but taking time to build a career. The current mass production of luxury goods sold over the world makes once sought after goods less desirable, said the one time Miu Miu designer.
Currently based in Berlin, Mr. Pilati spoke about his new Random Identities brand and the trends in the fashion arena during the one hour discussion.
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Milan Looks and Looks
More looks from Milan Fashion Week.
Lorena Antoniazz
Brightway from Osaka produces luxurious sneakers made from Japanese leather. The three generation footwear makers have a philosophy: “A Pair to Love Even After 10 Years.” Clic below to watch the Before Tacky podcast interview