The musical chairs continue in the fashion world as yet more creative heads have departed major houses. I was in a state of shock when Pierpaolo Piccioli exited as head of Rome brand house Valentino after twenty-five years. The couture label epitomized glamour with its monochromatic pink looks and feathered head pieces. All great rides come to an end. Piccioli’s clock rang. However, the clock was ticking. When powerhouse Kering bought 30% of the house in July 2023, changes were coming. As a media sweetheart, Valentino matched Louis Vuitton with celebrity filled fashion shows in Paris. As a major sales force, the numbers came up short. Enter the former Kering alumi and past darling Alessandro Michele. The once head of Gucci has been given the task make the sixty-four-year-old brand commercially relevant. It is a curious mix of bling meets classical style. It will be interesting to see the next evolution of the big V logo brand in Spring 2025 collection
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Ouest Paris makes a Menswear STATEMENT
From Florence at Pitti Uomo, Arthur Roberts from menswear Ouest Paris talks about his brand’s combination of Hedonism and Space Age influences.
Click below for the Before Tacky Podcast interview.
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Fashion at 0331
At Milan Fashion Week in the HUB, start-up label 0331 had a display in the new designers section. The Milan creative collectives started the brand with sustainable practices, up-cycling used denim to new forms.
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Pilati Talks
“WORK IS NOT WORK IF YOU LIKE IT“, PILATI
Fashion designer Stefano Pilati gave a talk during Milan Fashion Week at Istituto Marangoni on his career and the state of fashion. The Italian born former head of YSL spoke about practicing patience for young designers, not thinking success will come immediately, but taking time to build a career. The current mass production of luxury goods sold over the world makes once sought after goods less desirable, said the one time Miu Miu designer.
Currently based in Berlin, Mr. Pilati spoke about his new Random Identities brand and the trends in the fashion arena during the one hour discussion.
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Milan Looks and Looks
More looks from Milan Fashion Week.
Lorena Antoniazz
Brightway from Osaka produces luxurious sneakers made from Japanese leather. The three generation footwear makers have a philosophy: “A Pair to Love Even After 10 Years.” Clic below to watch the Before Tacky podcast interview
The J-Quality Factory Brand Project is a project bringing together eleven certified Japanese garment producers showcasing the menswear fashion prowess of the island nation. Not knowing what expect the first time I met the team last year at Pitti Uomo, the guided tour of selected pieces got my attention. In 2024, for the second appointment, there were more and better pieces. The cashmere sweaters (below) came from the wings from an angel, soft, light and vivid brushed to achieve a distinctive luxe feel. A piece from these collections would have a prominent place in my wardrobe.
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Inspiration from a TMI Moment
A person never knows when or why an inspiring time will trigger an idea: looking at a painting, hearing a piece of music or from a TMI moment. Everton McDougall got triggered to start his brand Haus by Everton from a frank conversation. The Toronto native needed comfortable and stylish home gear during the lockdown. Today, the men’s footwear designer’s brand is in stores.
For this Before Tacky podcast Everton talks about the why behind the founding of fashion label.
From Pitti Uomo a Before Tacky quick talk with Paolo Ferrari about his new bags for 959.
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Menswear & The Wardrobe
Marquis Miles sat down for an interview about menswear fashion at Pitti Uomo. The Washington DC resident style consultant gives advice on what to have in the wardrobe for 2024.