A Before Tacky podcast from Milan with style expert Simone Coriddi from the Via Della Spiga Milan on styling the right hat to add to a look.
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Style Quick Take
Tag: ootd
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400, not on my dime,
NOPE! I cannot recommend paying $400 for a pair of sneakers made in who knows where. If I had asked my parents for pair when I was in the targeted buying group these trainers are targeted she would have responded “Not on my dime, McDonald’s is always hiring”. LVMH acquired American brand Tiffany & Co in 2021. The famous blue colored jeweler has been an exclusive place of dreams luxury staple for 185 years. Those days are over in the era of “masstige” where are labels are trading up or down.
Partnering with sportswear titan Nike, the first of I am sure, many co-branding partnerships signals the new owners plan on making their New York based holding more accessible to a younger generation.
A high priced sneaker with a colored “Swish” packed in a fancy branded box brings out the cynical side of me.
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I KNEW IT!
I met London based Park Sohee in Milan during Fashion Week. I knew it, a new fashion designer star has emerged. Recently Park showed her Miss Sohee collection in Paris for Couture Week.
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At Pitti Uomo Jan 23
My first Pitti Uomo after the lockdowns, opinion, good to be back, but you can’t go back. This time around in Florence the menswear event came across a bit melancolic. The parties were subdued. The number of dressed up peacocks was down. Moving from exhibitor to exhibitor feelings were high yet realistic. There were no expectations of big orders, rather a relief for potential customers to see designers are still around. The best part of attending Pitti Uomo is seeing the range of mens fashion. There is no lack of color or style. I hope retailers take note. Instead of the same brands in every store, try something different.
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An Actress in Paris
For actress, comedian and model Eugenia Kuzmina Paris is a set. During her time in the City of Lights while performing on stage Eugenia showed off a few couture pieces with famed photographer Vladimir Sichov.
Eugenia can be see in the upcoming films OPERATION FORTUNE and ASSASSIN with Bruce Willis.
WeDress Collective is a Berlin based start up founded by Jasmin Huber. For this episode of Before Tacky a discussion on the inspiration behind the sustainable app and platform available both online and physical at Galeries Lafayette. Rent a piece, return it.
It had to happen sooner or later. Trying to be relevant at the time being edgy, the silk threads will hit the fan. Balenciaga, the French Fashion House learned the hard way. The Bondage Teddy Doll Toddler campaign crashed the same as if a German Leader singing Beyonce at a karaoke bar. The fall out continues, at present everyone is “reevaluating” their relationship with the brand.
Looking over the images, I wonder what happened to the filters. Certainly one person at the multi billion luxury clothier could see a yellow light. Yet, for some reason I have a feeling they coward, preferring to be another deaf person in the room of blind people. You have to understand, the fashion business is allergic to the truth. One contrary word to group think, banishment!
Gemma Gvasalia has a done a seven year job of transitioning the fabled label to the top of fashion league. Making collections tailored fit for Instagram. Getting big names not only sitting front row but also in the runway shows. Coveted $750 worn High Tops trainers fly out the store. The $1,300 mini bag has become a must have. Any wonder why no one challenges his opinions? Yet, even the Georgian born designer learned, “live by the Gram, you can die on the Gram.”
Eating a slice of Humble Pie never killed anyone. The statements coming from Balenciaga have been the same as a screeching bird with two broken wings. First, scrubbing its Instagram account with the exception of a statement posting. Then saying the production company was responsible for the content. Launching a million dollar lawsuit against the creative team. Throwing a borrowed bucket of gasoline on a fire does not extinguish the flame. Owe up the mistake. In a few days the world will move on to the next social media outrage.
As far as I am concerned, “yes” the pictures are in poor taste. But then again, I would never pay $750 for a pair of worn High Tops.
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Now On My Radar
I got invited to an event from the Superdry’s public relations team to check out the store, look over the pieces and choose what I would like to wear. Who turns down free clothes?Admittingly, the brand was not on my radar. I met the team at their event in Florence at Pitti Uomo, yet for some reason I never followed up on the relationship. The British brand was founded eighteen years ago. According to the press agent, outerwear were the key pieces of the brand’s early years, mainly parkers. The two story Kurfürstendamm Berlin flagship store on has a wide selection of mens and women’s wear styles. A person could spend hours trying on pieces. There is even a vintage sportswear section.
Vintage Section 
Active and Fitness Wear 
Hoodies
Going over the mens fashion, Superdry is influenced by American and Japanese styles, varsity jackets layered with graphic prints. There is no shortage of monogrammed hoodies and t-shirts to match with denim wear.
As I was not familiar with the Cheltenham base company, the sales assistant showed me around. Granted being a press invitee I expected a well mannered staff, but the genuineness was authentic. Even saying “ask me anything, I know the whole collection.” Shockingly, she did. Her knowledge made it easier to decide what to choose.
Superdry logo on Oxford Shirts 
Denimwear 
Parkas
Superdry advertises itself as a premium brand not the typical ready to wear high street retailer. The black jeans I have are comfortable. The green jacket is stylish. However, longevity is judge of quality. For me, if I can wear clothing for over a year without major wear and tear, it’s good.
Stay tuned for follow up stories.
For out Before Tacky podcast we discuss what is happening in the fashion world. Reflecting these times of certainty brands, magazines and buyers chug along trying to figure out a right path.
Lyn and Taiwo join the discussion from Milan and London.
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Colors and Preps The Korean Way
Korea has emerged as a creative power on the modern scene. From global television series to pop music acts taking the world by storm, Korean culture is on the march, fashion included.
Beyond Closet’s founder and creative head Ko Tae-yong grabbed my attention from his 2017 Colette collaboration. His classic preppy influenced looks move from minimal to enriched looks. Founded in 2008, Beyond Closet has become a force in the Seoul Fashion scene with its use of colors, prints and graphics.
The Black and Paper interview with fashion designer Ko Tae-yong.
Ko Tae-yong at Seoul Fashion Week
As a menswear designer, how would you define the modern masculine style?
It has become a world that is less official and has less restrictions than in the past. Modern men are even showing the tendency they are not really limited by the traditional gender stereotype like “skirts are for only women.” They are sensitive to trends, but they also have a tendency to keep their own style as they did from the past.
How did you become influenced by the “preppy look?”
Most middle and high schools in Korea’s wear school uniforms. As I experienced the school uniform culture, I became interested in uniform in other countries and it developed my interest in Western culture. The fact that things inspired by the school uniform culture could be applied in broader real life. It can create a timeless new culture when combined with classic pieces. That is what attracted me a lot.
The latest collection moved to casual sophistication, do you think men want to be more dressed up but without a tie?
Even if the formula for men’s clothing changes over time, I think men believe classical and formal clothing will last forever. It is part of the charm of menswear. So, I mix up things from the past into new things.
Please walk us through look 11 and 13 from the Spring Collection.
In Look #11, the military-patterned outerwear was reconstructed with light knit material and styled with linen pants of irregular stripes. I talked about a lighter, lyrical and vintage military.
The 13th look is attractive with romantic moods composed of vintage things. Python boots are a heterogeneous element in them, but they are objects that show novelty by adding points.
You paint on pieces, is this part of your design technique?
They are Contemporary Art Inspiration and Handmade Elements that inspire me deeply.
Are there any plans on selling your brand in the United States or Europe?
Beyond Closet and I loved America and Europe. We also held fashion shows and communicated with them through pop-up stores and various projects. It is always welcome to showcase our brand if there is a good opportunity.