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Fashion Feature

Bondage and Social

It had to happen sooner or later. Trying to be relevant at the time being edgy, the silk threads will hit the fan. Balenciaga, the French Fashion House learned the hard way. The Bondage Teddy Doll Toddler campaign crashed the same as if a German Leader singing Beyonce at a karaoke bar. The fall out continues, at present everyone is “reevaluating” their relationship with the brand.

Looking over the images, I wonder what happened to the filters. Certainly one person at the multi billion luxury clothier could see a yellow light. Yet, for some reason I have a feeling they coward, preferring to be another deaf person in the room of blind people. You have to understand, the fashion business is allergic to the truth. One contrary word to group think, banishment!

Gemma Gvasalia has a done a seven year job of transitioning the fabled label to the top of fashion league. Making collections tailored fit for Instagram. Getting big names not only sitting front row but also in the runway shows. Coveted $750 worn High Tops trainers fly out the store. The $1,300 mini bag has become a must have. Any wonder why no one challenges his opinions? Yet, even the Georgian born designer learned, “live by the Gram, you can die on the Gram.”

Eating a slice of Humble Pie never killed anyone. The statements coming from Balenciaga have been the same as a screeching bird with two broken wings. First, scrubbing its Instagram account with the exception of a statement posting. Then saying the production company was responsible for the content. Launching a million dollar lawsuit against the creative team. Throwing a borrowed bucket of gasoline on a fire does not extinguish the flame. Owe up the mistake. In a few days the world will move on to the next social media outrage.

As far as I am concerned, “yes” the pictures are in poor taste. But then again, I would never pay $750 for a pair of worn High Tops.

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Fashion

Now On My Radar

I got invited to an event from the Superdry’s public relations team to check out the store, look over the pieces and choose what I would like to wear. Who turns down free clothes?Admittingly, the brand was not on my radar. I met the team at their event in Florence at Pitti Uomo, yet for some reason I never followed up on the relationship. The British brand was founded eighteen years ago. According to the press agent, outerwear were the key pieces of the brand’s early years, mainly parkers. The two story Kurfürstendamm Berlin flagship store on has a wide selection of mens and women’s wear styles. A person could spend hours trying on pieces. There is even a vintage sportswear section.

Going over the mens fashion, Superdry is influenced by American and Japanese styles, varsity jackets layered with graphic prints. There is no shortage of monogrammed hoodies and t-shirts to match with denim wear.

As I was not familiar with the Cheltenham base company, the sales assistant showed me around. Granted being a press invitee I expected a well mannered staff, but the genuineness was authentic. Even saying “ask me anything, I know the whole collection.” Shockingly, she did. Her knowledge made it easier to decide what to choose.

Superdry advertises itself as a premium brand not the typical ready to wear high street retailer. The black jeans I have are comfortable. The green jacket is stylish. However, longevity is judge of quality. For me, if I can wear clothing for over a year without major wear and tear, it’s good.

Stay tuned for follow up stories.

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Fashion podcast

What’s Going On?

For out Before Tacky podcast we discuss what is happening in the fashion world. Reflecting these times of certainty brands, magazines and buyers chug along trying to figure out a right path.

Lyn and Taiwo join the discussion from Milan and London.

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Fashion

Colors and Preps The Korean Way

Korea has emerged as a creative power on the modern scene. From global television series to pop music acts taking the world by storm, Korean culture is on the march, fashion included.

Beyond Closet’s founder and creative head Ko Tae-yong grabbed my attention from his 2017 Colette collaboration. His classic preppy influenced looks move from minimal to enriched looks. Founded in 2008, Beyond Closet has become a force in the Seoul Fashion scene with its use of colors, prints and graphics.

The Black and Paper interview with fashion designer Ko Tae-yong.

Ko Tae-yong at Seoul Fashion Week

As a menswear designer, how would you define the modern masculine style?

It has become a world that is less official and has less restrictions than in the past. Modern men are even showing the tendency they are not really limited by the traditional gender stereotype like “skirts are for only women.” They are sensitive to trends, but they also have a tendency to keep their own style as they did from the past.

How did you become influenced by the “preppy look?”

Most middle and high schools in Korea’s wear school uniforms. As I experienced the school uniform culture, I became interested in uniform in other countries and it developed my interest in Western culture. The fact that things inspired by the school uniform culture could be applied in broader real life. It can create a timeless new culture when combined with classic pieces. That is what attracted me a lot.

The latest collection moved to casual sophistication, do you think men want to be more dressed up but without a tie?

Even if the formula for men’s clothing changes over time, I think men believe classical and formal clothing will last forever. It is part of the charm of menswear. So, I mix up things from the past into new things.

Please walk us through look 11 and 13 from the Spring Collection.

In Look #11, the military-patterned outerwear was reconstructed with light knit material and styled with linen pants of irregular stripes. I talked about a lighter, lyrical and vintage military.

The 13th look is attractive with romantic moods composed of vintage things. Python boots are a heterogeneous element in them, but they are objects that show novelty by adding points.

You paint on pieces, is this part of your design technique?

They are Contemporary Art Inspiration and Handmade Elements that inspire me deeply.

Are there any plans on selling your brand in the United States or Europe?

Beyond Closet and I loved America and Europe. We also held fashion shows and communicated with them through pop-up stores and various projects. It is always welcome to showcase our brand if there is a good opportunity.

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Fashion

Fashion Week 2022

The Big Fashion Week Season closed. My quick first impressions are optimism, moving forward form the past years. As the world moves from uncertainty to uncertainty fashion labels turned vivacious for Spring 2023. As usual the start of the calendar kicked off in New York before moving to London, Milan and finally Paris. Instead of absorbing headlines, runway shows were delightful.

The movement towards streetwear slowed, creative directors stayed in their lanes this season, not retrenching, but more of a comfort zone design philosophy.

I had some favorites of course. Lanvin’s Bruno Sialelli gave a tasteful yet compelling harmonization to the French house.

In Milan, the old line brand Bally decided on a rebirth. Rhuigi Villaseñor, known for his streetwear label Rhude, gave the Swiss clothing maker a shot in the arm with a mixture of adventure and classic pieces.

Stay tuned for Before Tacky podcast on fashion interviews, news and reviews.

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Fashion podcast

Sustainable with a Conscious 2

Continuing the Before Tacky Podcast with co host Irene Serra talk to Rodrigo Doxandabarat about his brand DOTZ.

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Fashion

Miyake 1939-2022

Famed Japanese designer Issey Miyake passed today. Famed for his distinctive pleats, the fashion head created a house around flowing designs and loose pieces.

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Fashion

Yes, I Shopped in Hamburg

I like shopping in Hamburg. The stores clustered around the center range from mainstream ready to wear mixed with luxury brands to fine vintage boutiques and camera shops.

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Fashion

Gap Meets Ye

The fashion collection many have been waiting for has dropped. The Gap, Ye and Balenciaga collaboration debuted. My first impression. Grim. Misshapen. It took a “genius” to design this!

The Players

Kayne and Gap announced a 10 year partnership in June 2020. For one side the deal made commercial sense, while for the other, a throw of the dice hoping for a lucky double 6 retail turnaround.

It has been no secret the San Francisco based casual wear retailer has been in trouble for a long time. Once a closet staple Gap became a bit boring. Hail Mary Plays are always risking. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. Gap has been closing stores for decades. Once upon a time the American Mall mainstay had the pulse of what buyers wanted, cool ads, colorful jeans at good prices yet somewhere the retailer lost its way as Zara took the style trendsetting crown. Turning to the headline grabber Ye confirmed what fashion insiders knew, Gap was rudderless, looking for a Captain.

The always in the media Rapper Kanye West or Ye needs no introduction. If a person has not heard about his fashion ambition, maybe they were visiting Mars for the past fifteen years. Virgil Abloh was a Ye collaborator before becoming creative head of Louis Vuitton menswear. West with Adidas netted billionaires from their sneaker collection collaboration.

The storied French fashion house Balenciaga run by Demma Gvasalia brings chic continental creditability to this “creative exploration”.

Not Your Parents GAP

Gap YE Hoodie
Gap Hoodie at $320

The moment arrived on Monday 26th. Finally, buyers and fans got to see, touch and purchase the first pieces. According to the New York Times article “Is this partnership a cautionary tale or a new model for fashion to come?” The 36 engineered pieces by Balenciaga are a technical revision of classic Gap styled hoodies and t-shirts.

The Gap’s 1960’s California optimistic heritage has been replaced by cheerless style gear.

The Gap Times Square store was re-designed with a dark interior with clothing piled on a table as if in a backstreet vintage shop. Just have at it. No, this is not a joke. Not even racks or neatly folded shirt stacks. Imagine a going out of business sale at Woolworth’s.

Some in the fashion press have been going Goo Goo Ga Ga over this spectacle. Not here. Is this collection a joke? Making fun of buyers who fall the gag.

The die hard fans waiting outside before the store opening in New York City to be the first to buy pieces with the appeal of a bleak video game character. Being hip in the fake til you make it culture comes at a price. Gap built its brand on affordability, suddenly, a $320 for a hoodie, $190 dove print t-shirt.

Buy?

Was it worth it? It depends on who you ask. For Ye, another notch on the belt to becoming fashion mogul. As for for Gap, the retailer needs all the attention it can get. All the recent headlines have been bad. Who gets excited about their namesake Khaki Pants? Balenciaga sent out the word, their part in this trio is done. A merciful “Thank You” to Paris.

Is this fashion’s future or present reality? Sometimes it is better to just back and watch situations unfold from a sideline.

Lastly, if I go to a Gap store, I’ll stick to the basic white t for $15.

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Fashion

Is This Couture?

Going over the designs from Paris Fashion Week Couture, one brand had a star studded Runway Walk. Normally, this is a bad omen, the focus shifts from the looks to the celebs. Prophecies coming true scare me. Not mentioning the name of this brand or designer as I watched the fashion video, a lesson learned. Do not watch DUNE while taking MDNA. Fashion is fun, a bit silly but the line to stupid was crossed. When the models walked as if they were wounded from Hyena attacks, time for a design rethink. Certainly, the global publicity for the brand will be enormous. However, laughing with you is different from laughing at you. I wonder which will win out.