At Pitti Uomo, the words new technique are applied to the Japanese textile houses and brands. The final feel of the pieces shown in Florence is a bolt of blue. The JQ exhibit in the center building is always fascinating because of the way the fabrics feel: light and fine. The same question: How? The way the producers handle cashmere and silk should motivate designers to study the material process in Japan. Why these shirts and suits are not sold in major stores in the West is a mystery.
A Black and Paper exclusive interview with Korean Fashion Designer Avizmo Jo, creative head of De_caffeine homme. What attracted me to his brand were his outerwear pieces. I wanted to ask what inspires his designs and collections.
The looks for the Fall Outerwear, three buttons and lapel, where did you develop this idea?
Planning and inspiration for this season’s collection was the fabric flow that occurred
when the general form of clothing was raised tightly.
By organizing the form that was created so that there was no inconvenience to the human body once again, we confirmed that the interesting form appeared again and used it
as a detail of the collection.
In the main look jacket and coat, the center of the clothes is connected with a long zipper
so that it is locked to the bottom of just below the neck.
Buttons were used only as decorative elements to create objects that made the design more prominent.
Your SS21 menswear tops are not conventional, is there a statement behind this?
SS21 is a new reinterpretation of traditional Taylor jackets and shirt designs, which I think are also traditional in another sence.
Like our design philosophy, we acknowledged the beauty of traditional forms, changed it anew, and emphasized it again in a sharp and modern style.
Why did you design the SS 21 collection with symmetries in mind?
The reason why I chose asymmetry is because I think it’s interesting to see what happens when you wear disproportionately to the human body, with the weight of the fabric on both side and shoulder widths different.
The asymmetric collar of the shirt is also the same image.
Do you think men should take more chances with their style choices?
Yes. I think there should be no restrictions on men’s fashion. There will be a style that we can suggest for each individual’s individuality.
The 20th century art movement Dadaism, in the 21st century, what does this mean to you in terms of fashion?
The Neodadaism I seek is closest to the explanation that otally disconnect what was once a form of social role from its original location and at the same time, it is trying to confuse the value it has and then bring it into
the new value system.’
I think that recognizing, understanding and reusing existing roles here has a positive effect. Adding my design to a design with traditional values is creating new values and giving a new role.
Stay tuned for more interviews with global fashion designers on our web chat show “Before Tacky”.
A person can never have too many shoes in the closet. At Pitti Uomo, these are a few I would like to see on my rack.
I enjoy going to Pitti Uomo in Florence in January. It’s working blended in with pleasure. The historical city is romantic, charming, and pleasing to the eye. The best characteristic about Pitti Uomo is the atmosphere. Mens outfits of the day take center stage. Dandy’s dressed up showing off their best looks, always up for a conversation about what they are wearing.
This year the bi-annual menswear gathering felt a bit subdued. Low-key to the point of average. What Happened? I am not so sure. Many brands pulled back this year. Instead of celebrations, somber reflection took place.
I had conversations about Barneys New York. The luxury department store had been floundering for a while, but there was optimism it would pull through. Not this time, the bankruptcy hit home. An earthquake felt around the mens fashion world. If this one, who is next? Barneys championed new brands. A place to test trends. The menswear buyer was well known at Pitti Uomo, always talking to designers and labels about their collections. No more! The New York iconic flagship store has “Going Out of Business” and “Everything Must Go” signs on the doors and windows. More thought provoking, nothing has emerged to take Barneys place. Making it harder for new designers to break into mainstream consumer conscienceless.
There were gems of course at Pitti Uomo. I visited Japanese shoe designer Kanpekina. His footwear makes me tingle. A second Japanese designer I met, Kunihiko Morinaga from Anrealage, produces many unique menswear pieces. Especially stunning are his statement patchwork looks in the form of jackets and polo shirts. The finish and rich details demonstrate luxury tailoring.
Florence is a city of Grand Settings. I have had the privilege of visiting a few during Pitti Uomo. The most impressive presentation was by Brioni for its 75thanniversary. The luxury brand wanted set the scene for luxury, a Florentine Palazzo. Six rooms with a chamber concert musicians wearing the latest looks. Take That Downton Abbey!
Stay Tuned for more on Pitti Uomo.
It is always fun to attend Pitti Uomo. The Dandys or Peacocks walking around showing off their looks are impressive but at times some looks felt overdone. We think what makes a great look is if the looks seem effortless not like a math equation.
Stylist Gianni and I share share our views from Florence.
More from Pitti Uomo. Stay Tuned.
The last days of August and summer. It’s never too late to get the right bathing suit for a last minute trip to the beach. Maybe in September there will be good weather. If not, there is always a pool. We cannot guarantee they are as soothing as the ones at the Aqualux Hotel.
Picture 1. Cautisana Vasile Vladut wears Robinson Les Bains
Picture 2. Simone Clementi wears Robinson Les Bains
Picture 3. Sergio Cavaglieri wears RRD
Picture 3 Sergio Cavaglieri wears RRD
Picture 1. Sergio Cavaglieri wears Ron Dorf
Picture 2. Simone Clement wears Robinson Les Bains
Picture 3. Cautisanu Vasile Vladut wears Ron Dorf
Photographer-Ivan Siggillino, Assistant-Simone Toson, Make Up and Hair by Lorena Palmieri
Shot at the Aqualux Hotel,Bordolino, on the shore of Lake Garda Italy.
At the Aqualux Hotel during the “What to Wear In August” shoot there was a moment of inspiration. We decided to act. The hotel has an outdoor barbecue night with live entertainment. Guitar player Simone Clementi performed some sets with his singing partner in front of dinner guests.
1.Borsalino Hat & Robinson Les Bains Swimwear
2. Spring Jackets by Doppiaa, Bag by The Brigde, Jacket by RRD, Shoes by Swims
Musicians tend to have a natural sex appeal about them. Creative energy adds points. Simone kindly agreed to our offer.
Robinson Les Bains Swimwear, Shirt by Massimo Alba, Sandals from Ellesse
For the second day of production we decided to use him. Besides having a slightly edgy look matched with his approachabilty. The guitarist maintains a lean figure working out everyday while watching his diet. He said he has been happy with the results.
As a music maker Simone tours with the group Logic With Terror. Check his Facebook page for news and dates.
1.Sweater by Massimo Alba, Farah Shorts, Ron Dorf Swimsuit, Shoes by Swims
2.RRD Swimwear and Shirt
3.RRD Swimwear
Photographer-Ivan Siggillino, Assistant-Simone Toson, Make-Up and Hair Style-Lorena Palmieri
Shot the Aqualux Hotel, Bordolino, on Lake Garda Italy.
As Paris Fashion Week Men continues, labels have been affected by the Let’s See What Works” era. Many are going in new directions. What to make of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton? My first impression was the Three Stooges short “Slippery Silks” from 1936. Moe, Larry, and Curly inherit a dress shop. The guys are really furniture makers and carpenters. The Stooges put on a fashion show with models wearing designs resembling furniture pieces. I laughed so hard as a kid watching this on television reruns.. Now, I am not a child.
The June 2019 collection from LV Menswear felt like an Ikea collaboration. Yes, the location was made for modern media, a square in Paris. But going over the looks, HUH? Gender free, skirts, structures on the body, rain boots, was there a sale at a local flea market? I had a feeling of discomfort thinking about wearing many looks. The kite or lamp or table over the shoulder came across as a bit over the top. How one wear this without feeling a bit ridiculous is beyond me.
The Louis Vuitton menswear client is a first stage luxury buyer. He wants to show-off his money with the giant LV logo plastered on everything worn. In the Social Media Age this is acceptable wealth display behavior. The #LV attracts a lot of “likes” on Instagram.
Personally, I would not buy a single piece from the runway. But Virgil is savvy, established. The saying goes, “Don’t Hate! Appreciate! One cannot guilt the brand or designer for going after the market. Asia is fueling fashion’s growth. LV is a business eyeing big profits. As fashion decides to push boundaries, reject many social conventions, the balancing act is a fine one. Success, ridicule, losing touch, or irrelavance can pop out of the one hat.
Black and Paper coverage from the Italian Fashion Capital.
Images by CanonSX740 Sponsored by #Canondeu
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