I met Sohee Park in 2022 during her presentation supported by Dolce&Gabbana. The London based designer impressed with a collection that was both stunning and assured. Now in 2025, the Korean born creative head is presented collections in Paris for Couture Week. GOOD JOB!
A lot of hoopla surrounded Kim Jones’s first couture collection for Fendi. Filling the shoes of Karl Lagerfeld is a big order to fill for even the most talented designer. After viewing the star studded runway show in the Covid era virtual platform, I saw a few glimmers of hope mixed with an overdose of gimmicks.
Actress Demi Moore kicked off the catwalk, the preview image of an all star cast. Kate Moss and daughter, Christy Turlington, Hadid and Naomi Campbell all made appearances for the creative directors new designs. My cynical side sent off waring bells. Too much high wattage packaging could mean a cover up. Even having male models in a couture show walking on the runway wearing heavy lipstick had a scent of pleading for gender fashion relevance.
The fashion press coverage heaped much coverage on the celebrity walk. More journalist spoke about the models than the fashion pieces. Why? Perhaps the designs were average. No spectacular looks, richly crafted, but on the right side of dull, gloomy. Moss’ gray dress was “Operatically Grim.”
As the head of Dior menswear, Jones designed a dreamy aesthetic but also embraced streetwear looks into the French House. Yet for this couture season, Kim’s first collection felt uncentered.
I usually wait for a second collection by a new designer before passing judgement. I hope Kim Jones doesn’t disappoint me.
Four more fashion brands from Paris Fashion Week Couture we liked.
Day two of Paris Fashion Week Couture, here are four we like.
Stay tuned for more coverage on the designs, designers and collections.
Paris Haute Couture Week or days have passed. In the New Normal, runway shows are from a past era. Being front row at a Chanel is not immunity from Covid-19.
What I did I think? Without the runway and excitement it felt a bit of a let down. Brands opted for long videos and short films. I had the feeling of watching a long Calvin Klein Obsession commercial. Fashion Week should center around fashion but for some reason it did not. I am not sure why. Fashion houses spent a lot of money showcasing film techniques. For some reason, the clothes took a backseat, a bit strange for a fashion week. As a film buff, one time aspiring filmmaker, part film critic; I would ask some teams, “What Happened”? Fashion Weeks focus on clothes.
#Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture and Menswear Week without runways being delivered online felt like watching 3 hour Calvin Klein Obsession Commercials. #fashion #fashionweek #pfw #hautecouture #Mensfashion #fashionblogger #fashiondesigner #FashionFriday #ootdfashion # pic.twitter.com/0D26KNQQGT
— BlackandPaper (@BlackandPaper1) July 10, 2020
Looking for inspiration, fashion and film have a relationship dating back to the Golden Age of Hollywood. “The Women”, director George Cukor’s 1939 black and white all starer included a 6 minute Technicolor fashion parade. Audrey Hepburn’s “Funny Face” was scene for scene showcase of the actress wearing Givenchy looks. For some reason many designers and their creators decided to take a more expressive artistic sense mixed with the abstract.
Fashion is live spectacle. I prefer fashion week with blank staring models, self important editors, and Borrowed Sunday Best Dressed Wannabes.
Let’s hope for a vaccine soon.
The New Normal has affected glamour. Nothing has been untouched. The first Paris Fashion Week Couture moved online this season. I expected straight forward presentations but some brands took inspirations from different sources, producing short films.
This is an overview of Day 1.
An added bonus, menswear looks from Hermes.
My reaction to seeing fashion online. I am a bit sad. Part of the fun is attending the shows, soaking in the atmosphere, witnessing the creativity.
Is the future of the fashion business online? I am not convinced. Stay tuned for my video.