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Paris Fashion Week Couture Highlights

Just a Quick Rundown 

Haute Couture is for a few but inspiration for all. This is the week when fashion houses unleash pageantry at its most 17thcentury finest. Sheer splendor in the air meticulous designs, some taking hundreds of man and woman hours to produce. Shapes and colors in all structures combined for display on the catwalk, then on display for a few buyers, celebrities, and press. 

Valentino’s head Piccioli is now the head of the optimistic club judging by this colorful collection. So Vivid!Not just colors, but shapes, lace, frills, ruffles, and extravagance of it all. Super model Naomi Campbell closed the show in a black sheer top.

What Armani does it is for Armani woman. Prive designs are about getting noticed but not in a noticeable way. The looks seemed inspired from a 30’s films. Suits, jackets, and dress fitted for the body from head to toe. The Woman in Red, look #34, has Joan Crawford written all over it, a jacket with a calf link dress stops the room.

Olivier Rousteing brought Balmain back the Couture zone. He took his moment, white, and soft pastel colors, but the shapes. The models donned looks small orbs on the wrist, and giant ones on the shoulders. Look #24, short, with the big fan and bow is a knockout.

A fashion show as a circus setting, Maria Chiura commands couture by making her looks themed around a most elegant clown. All the world loves a circus. I liked the 68 pieces presented. Look #4, sheer black stripped with collar, red sheet mini skirt is precious.

Jean Paul Gaultier presented 63 looks. The verdict, still on the edge but not fighting for the rest of us to catch up. The classic breton stripes, fringes, pointy shoulders from a Flash Gordon film could inflict harm but on a runway model proved visually dramatic. The soft baby blue, #56, halter top, mini ruffles with train peaked my interest.

Chanel’s homage to lush and wealth of past stood front and center. Lagerfeld focused on rigid forms and strong shoulders for the 62 look show at the Grand Palais. The embroided strapless of look #54 is a keeper.

Galliano at Maison Margiela destroys, interprets only to reconstruct. The two piece black look. #32, leather pants and cropped sleeveless bolero jacket is for the nightlife.

Guo Pei turns couture collections into Asian fairytales. Skirts, thigh high boots, silks, and floral patterns for the Femme Fatal of the Orient. The silver silk , #5, or organza dress with head piece is precious.

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Paris Fashion Week Couture Roundup

Alin Le Kal’s decade of experience with textiles along with his education at RMIT University, Melbourne proved invaluable.  He developed a skill using fabrics.   His feminine looks, using intricate crystals and feathers for his Spring Couture collection titled “Reflected Elements” showcased his love for the female form.   The runway show set in the ball room of the Le Grand Hotel, Paris, proved fitting,  a perfect place for grand entrances. The Peach feathered dress is Breathtaking. 

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Paris Fashion Week Couture Tom Verlaine

Stay tuned for complete coverage of the Tom Verlaine Couture show from Paris.   

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On Aura Tout Vu from Paris Fashion Week Couture

Decadence on the runway. 

Final walk from a decadent show at Paris Fashion Week Couture.  Fashion House  On Aura Tout Vu celebrated 20 years on the couture scene.  The show was part theatre mixed with his fashion.

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Gucci at Paris Fashion Week

This year the Bling brand decided not to showcases in Milan but in Paris for Fashion Week.  A bit of a surprise!   A change of location but the same looks applied.  Creative Director Michele is not about the understated.  Get Noticed! Flaunt it if you got it!  Who cares about restraint.  Instagram is about a fantasy life and Gucci is the stylist,  sparkling accents, dazzling embroidery with Jewels fit for a  Sun King.  

Paris based photographer and Black and Paper creative contributor  Brice Hardelin attended a private tour of the Spring 2019 collection at the atelier in Paris. 

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Elegance is the Key!

A Black and Paper exclusive interview with shoe designer Walter De Silva.

When a man has a love of feminine elegance matched with a skill of design of course he becomes a shoe designer.

A background in car design, how did you move into shoe design?

Honestly, I consider myself a designer, not a fashion designer. I am a car designer, industrial designer. My approach is to design the heel, design the line, the proportions.I like cars and shoes.

I do not follow fashion, I follow my passion, my dream.

Why did you decide to design women’s shoes?

Two reasons: One, historicalreason, my grandfather had a shoe factory in Milan between the wars. In my family everyone spoke about shoes. Secondly, I like night shoes. They have sex appeal on women who wear them.

Should a woman wear a all everyday?

NO! NO! As I said, my shoes are for the night, after 7, starting with a cocktail, then dinner, a drink before going to a disco.

What is your shoe philosophy?

©WALTER DE SILVA SHOES – WDS LUMIERE 2017/2018

Elegance! Proportion! Sex Appeal! From the elegance and proportion side, I design shoes for them to look like one element from heel to toe, seamless. From the sex appeal side, A woman needs a strong personality to wear my shoes because she is sending out a message.

Is there one famous woman who you would like to wear your shoes?

Sharon Stone.

Why Sharon Stone?

As I said, Personality! Her biography is one of a lady with a lot of experience. Super elegant! Cool! Honest Eyes! I do not know her but she is the type of person for my shoes.

©Walter De Silva Shoes 2017/2018

You do not follow fashion, can you explain?

I like fashion. I admire many fashion designers. I cannot say I am a fashion designer. I have a different background. I am a product designer stimulated by different interests.

Are you one of those designers who like to perpetuallycreate?

Creating is is the soul and heart. There is a lot of preparation involved in designing. You have to know where you come from if you want to have a visual reference. Today design is about aestheticas well as problem solving. Once I had a client who wanted to have lights for a certain type of ambient. This project not only involvedtechnologybut transforming it into something special for everyone.The company head was very proud of the final work.

What is the design process?

I think about what would a lady like to wear. My approach is from an architecture point of view. Design is a discipline, architecture is one part. Shoe design is a micro discipline.Functionality is very important.

©Walter De Silva Shoes 2017/2018

When was the label founded?

I started Walter De Silva Shoes 2015, presenting one collection per year. My shoes are Created and Made in Italy. Even the boxes are Italian. This means a lot. I have to say “Thank You” to Barney’s New York for launching me in the States. Step by Step more retailers have come onboard from all over the world.

What are the brand’s future plans?

This is our, his wife, is a part of the company, Emmanuelle, is cofounder and CEO, last kid! We have 5. (Laughing) I always introduce new designs in Milan and Paris during Fashion Weeks.

I will maintain 15 styles a year with changes in colors and materials, always for the evening.  Perhaps I will add ankle boots in the future.

Check out the video: http://www.blackandpaper.com/2018/06/25/desilva-elegance/

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Paris Fashion Week Diversity from France 24

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From France 24: Paris Fashion Week

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Agnes B. from Paris

Brice Hardelin our man in Paris covered the Agnes B. Show.


for more information go to Brice Hardelin

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Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week Day 1 was a bit slow if not disappointing.

Anthony Vaccarello decided on sex appeal with denim. slits, black, and printed tops.

Paris Fashion Week has picked up.  The big guns have come out!

Dior Soft jackets lead a collection that was geared towards day.

Blamain Suede tube skirts and raffles for a collection that was social media geared while being on the right of wow!

Christian Wijnats Jumpsuits, pantsuits with frayed tops all masterfully done.

Anne Demeulemeester A lot of black with sheer tops designed for fluid sex appeal.

Andrew GN A collection that moved from solid blues to floral prints climaxing with rich gowns.

Barabar Bui Tanned leather looks, plunging necklines and looks rocked.

Lanvin A diverse collection of black and white, prints, sequins,  with suits and high hemlines.

Dries Van Noten Vivid Prints looks inspired by the 30’s complete with snugged tops.

Mugler’s inspired military navy blue looks fitted for the body.

Stella McCartney collection was casual layered pieces mixed with stripes.

Alexander McQueen showed a softer side with lace and frills.

Hermes kept it cool and collective for subdued looks and silhouettes.

Haider Acermann punk influences with an emphasis on pants, vests, and jackets.

Longchamp moved away from bags to looks with stripes with monochromes and short lengths.

Courreges relaunch was complete with mini-skirts and colorful short leather jackets.

Valentin Yudashkin showed suits, motorcycle jackets and neo color dresses.

Chanel had breathtaking collection with so many looks including jackets, sunglasses, and all things classic to the label.

Louis Vuitton Neo Pop references of leather and denim touches as well as short puffy skirts.

Sonia Rykiel went with cotton dress and prints and sequins.

Camilla and Marc decided on classic elegance with touches of silk, off the shoulder and shear looks.

For more on Paris Fashion Week go to our Encore Section from France 24