Today another creative head departed from a big house. Keeping up with who is where, for how long is getting harder. This time Sabato De Sarno “quit” Gucci after only two years. It is no secret the Italian Fashion House has struggled in the past years. Sales have fallen to the point of panic for parent company Kering as buyers turn to other labels.
Kim Jones walked away from Dior. The shocking news came right after presenting his latest collection in Paris for menswear week. The British born designer made a mark at the top of the heritage house with a modern interpretation of tailored pieces.
Kim Jones
There was a time in the fashion business when longevity matter, not anymore. Taking the job as a head designer should come with a stylish 48 hour bag.
I met Sohee Park in 2022 during her presentation supported by Dolce&Gabbana. The London based designer impressed with a collection that was both stunning and assured. Now in 2025, the Korean born creative head is presented collections in Paris for Couture Week. GOOD JOB!
Sohee Park in 2022 A 2022 Creation from Milan Fashion Week 2025 Paris Couture
The Fashion Musical Chairs Contest continue. In one week, three brands made big changes. Thankfully, I have a chalkboard to help keep up with who is where, just erase then add a new name.
When John Galliano took over as Creative Head of Martin Margiela, the British designer had come in from the cold after being ousted from Dior. Ten years later the partnership has ended. After months of rumors, Mr. Galliano announced his resignation from the Paris House. Admittedly sad news, the 64-year-old brought a creative romanticism to the label. The runway shows were fantasy run from surreal to vintage sumptuous fantasy of diverse materials. There was no announcement on where John Galliano will go. Perhaps, his own label or retire, we have to wait and see.
Chanel finally announced a new head six months after Virginie Viard’s exit. The uber luxury brand named Matthieu Blazy as the new creative head. Coming from Bottega Veneta, Bailey will be in charge of ten collections a year. I see a lot of energy drinks in the Belgium born designer’s future. Chanel is more than a brand but a cultural tentpole for fashion and style. How will Blazy interrupt the classic Tweed Jacket? Recently, the Chanel runway shows have lacked the grand pageantry typical under Lagerfeld, possibly, the dull period in the Grand Palais is over.
As one designer leaves, another enters, Bottega Veneta placed Louise Trotter as Matthieu Blazy’s replacement. Coming from Carven, a brand known for oversized looks and exaggeration, Trotter’s view with Italian Tailoring should be interesting.
Fashion Week month just ended, but the news from the style capitals keeps coming. First, the shock announcement of Hedi Silmane leaving French House Celine after seven years took the industry by surprise. The Paris born designer revitalised the womenswear label with youthful designs. Parent company LVMH released a statement reading Michael Rider will replace Hedi.
Milan’s Missoni issued a statement that Filippo Grazioli exited. Known for knightwear, Missoni returned to the runway schedule two years where Filippo debut a colorful, well received collection for the family owned label. Alberto Caliri has been named as the replacement.
Filippo Grazioli Hedi Slimane
It is hard to believe there was a time when designer had longevity sitting at the top of the pyramid. Those days have passed the same as shopping at a Sears Department Store in a local mall. There is better job security as an UBER driver than being a fashion creative head.
Masion Yoshiki showed at Paris Fashion Week for Spring 2025, going with geometric shapes and many mini hemlines the designer buttressed looks with black, white and pastel colors. According the press release, the Japanese Superstar paid homage to 60’s American Pop Culture with print dresses.
For some reason Paris Fashion Week felt a bit desperate for attention this season. Pandering is never good. In the crowded landscape designers are under pressure to get that viral moment to stand above the rest. For this reason, some collections looked disjointed, a circle in a square peg. Creatively, the City of Lights fashion scene has become overly vulnerable to smartphone scrolling.
Paris Fashion Week Valentino
The big news, Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino. The stage setting fitting for the Rome born designer: dreams and romance. That was the problem. Valentino was a brand of refined elitism. Jackie O to Joan Collins, the Jet Set Crowd wore the label as an emblem of being in a certain club. Alessandro’s collection, while lush, comes across as garish compared to the house’s past styles. While in doubt of the 51-year-old talent, his Gucci era heavily influenced looks on the runway. It is no secret Kering Group invested in the house, perhaps a way to challenge Louis Vuitton in the uber luxury brand category, however, as soft luxury is trending with shoppers, why did they allow Alessandro to drive the opposite direction?
Paris Fashion Week Balenciaga
Demna at Balenciaga continues to challenge what makes fashion, fashion. The French label is popular with young buyers. The oversized sneakers were a must have for anyone under twenty-five. The giant logo on shirts worked in the Selfie Age. In 2024 the Georgian born returned to what he did best. Oversized jackets that belong on a lifeboat and baggy jeans were runway staples. Inner wear for the night, perfect for going to the 1920’s KitKat club. Do these looks work with young people looking for the lowest price on an app? Only the book keepers at Balenciaga know the answer.
Stay tuned for more fashion weeks coverage and more episodes of the Before Tacky Podcast.
Spanish fashion designer Juana Martin themes for this year Paris Fashion Week Couture collection blended the age old conflict of Divinity and Sins. Fruits and fish motifs mixed with lace and gauze for the twenty four looks on the June runway show.
Juana Martin
Winter 2025
Fashion showJuana Martin
Winter 2025
Fashion show
Traveling to Paris for Fashion Week can come across as glamour meets pretentious. However, for this visit, clothing was front and center. We hit some shows, but decided to focus on behind the scenes by getting the low down on the business and trends. Designers, press relations and stores gave us opinions on topics ranging from shopping experiences to the quiet luxury shift. The industry is going through some changes.
