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Fashion

On Change in Fashion

Change is inevitable, in the fashion business, change is often.  The news from New York took the industry by surprise.  Calvin Klein announced the appointment of Veronica Leoni as creative head, the female to lead he label.  The brand plans to return to the runway schedule.  Why this change of strategy?   Parent company owner PVH withdrew the fifty-six-year-old designer brand from the ready-to-wear runway shows, instead focusing on the label’s core sellers, underwear and jeans.

Little is known about Leoni other than the Italian designer worked for Celine and Jil Sander.  Calvin Klein was once the crown of the fashion world with is minimal sensuality built around youth.  Can Veronica Leoni bring the buzz back to an once New York Fashion Week marque? Curious choices are interesting. 

Veronica Leoni from Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein’s Veronica Leoni

The other news of the day report came from Paris.  The Grand Dame of fashion labels released a statement stating Virginie Viard would resign as head of the Paris based house. After five years at the position inherited from Karl Lagerfeld.  After 30 years with the brand Virginie’s stay comes to an end. What was the reason?  Chanel plays its hand close to its chest. There were no rumors of strife or lower sales.  The company recently paid big dividends to its owners. 

However, Viard has some big shoes to fill.  The larger-than-life Lagerfeld left his mark on the prestigious womenswear line. His magnificent shows, the sardonic wit filled pages of fashion reports.  While The headline adverse French born designer was competent the grandiose excitement seemed missing.  The airport runway sets or the multimillion-dollar celebrity commercials disappeared after 2019.  After all, Chanel is really about classy sensations.

It is only halfway through 2024.

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Fashion Feature

Musical Chairs, AGAIN

The musical chairs continue in the fashion world as yet more creative heads have departed major houses.  I was in a state of shock when Pierpaolo Piccioli exited as head of Rome brand house Valentino after twenty-five years.  The couture label epitomized glamour with its monochromatic pink looks and feathered head pieces.  All great rides come to an end.  Piccioli’s clock rang.  However, the clock was ticking.  When powerhouse Kering bought 30% of the house in July 2023, changes were coming.  As a media sweetheart, Valentino matched Louis Vuitton with celebrity filled fashion shows in Paris.  As a major sales force, the numbers came up short.  Enter the former Kering alumi and past darling Alessandro Michele.  The once head of Gucci has been given the task make the sixty-four-year-old brand commercially relevant.  It is a curious mix of bling meets classical style.  It will be interesting to see the next evolution of the big V logo brand in Spring 2025 collection

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Fashion

Yoshiki on Fashion

Yoshiki had a presentation at Paris Fashion Week. The musician showed his 2024 collection of kimonos and other pieces. What does the musician think of fashion?

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Fashion

The Trend for 24

From New York to London to Milan and now Paris, there is a trend. After reviewing fashion weeks looks and pieces for Spring 24, there is definitely a change happening. Wearable styles without selfie friendly monograms are charging down the runways.

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Before Tacky Fashion

Fashion Reviews

Fashion Season is here with the big runway shows from the capital cities of style showing off their newest collections.

Looking over the designs, we have some opinions. Before Tacky is coming soon.

Fashion Week
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Fashion

Pharrell on the Paris Catwalk

Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection debuted on a spectacular scale. The Pont Neuf bridge was the setting for the musician, now a full-time fashion designer, to show off his version of luxury looks. Virigil Abhloh’s death left a big hole to fill. When the Virginia native was made head of the famed house in February, eyebrows hit the ceiling. Williams’ limited experience and lack of training felt a bit out of sync with the demands needed to be a creative head. The multi-nominated artist has street cred with his label, Billionaire Boys Club. The streetwear brand is celebrating its 20th anniversary.

Going to a fashion show in some cases is not about the fashion but about who is attending. Jay Z and Beyonce sat next to LVMH head Bernard Arnault. LV brand ambassador Rhianna hit the front row with baby bump and husband A$AP Rocky. Throw in supermodel Naomi Campbell, singer Lenny Kravitz, actress Zendaya. It pays to have famous friends, add in all the resources a $20 billion corporation with the Paris landscape as a backdrop, a choir, band and symphony, this event was spectacle worthy of Imperial Rome.

Looking over the numerous looks strutting over the Seine River, suddenly I had flashbacks to downtown Los Angeles. There was a guy who sold who sold fake designer clothing from the back of a truck. If a buyer wanted to try on the pieces, the alley way was the changing room. All transactions were cash only, no questions asked.

Not a Capsule Collection

Granted, Pharrell had only had three months to put together a collection. Looking over the pictures from June 20th, I saw recycled archives with new colors along with a homage to 90’s Ghetto Fabulousness. The absence of subtlety and lack of elegance struck because buyers want quiet luxury, toned down pieces of high quality. Secondly, there was no demonstrative style longevity with this collection. A fashion creative head needs authenticity, not the feeling of a capsule collection collaboration produced for a quick trip to the bank.

A person could be forgiven for thinking they were watching a garish indoctrination ritual. Logomania took over the catwalk in every color, shape and size, from bags and trunks to leather track suits with prints, suits with square patterns, pixel prints and knee length shorts with jackets.

I am willing to give Pharrell a second chance to reevaluate. Perhaps he will grow into the job. If not, the hit song maker still has his first career as a fallback.

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Fashion

I KNEW IT!

I met London based Park Sohee in Milan during Fashion Week. I knew it, a new fashion designer star has emerged. Recently Park showed her Miss Sohee collection in Paris for Couture Week.

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Fashion

Couture 2023

My first round picks from Couture Weeks from Paris.

I am still looking over the images, my second round of picks are coming.

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Fashion

Fashion Week 2022

The Big Fashion Week Season closed. My quick first impressions are optimism, moving forward form the past years. As the world moves from uncertainty to uncertainty fashion labels turned vivacious for Spring 2023. As usual the start of the calendar kicked off in New York before moving to London, Milan and finally Paris. Instead of absorbing headlines, runway shows were delightful.

The movement towards streetwear slowed, creative directors stayed in their lanes this season, not retrenching, but more of a comfort zone design philosophy.

I had some favorites of course. Lanvin’s Bruno Sialelli gave a tasteful yet compelling harmonization to the French house.

In Milan, the old line brand Bally decided on a rebirth. Rhuigi Villaseñor, known for his streetwear label Rhude, gave the Swiss clothing maker a shot in the arm with a mixture of adventure and classic pieces.

Stay tuned for Before Tacky podcast on fashion interviews, news and reviews.

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Fashion

Fashion Week Reviews

Of Course Not! We have not forgotten Fashion Week. We will have news, reviews and opinions coming.