Tag: pfwm
LV Collection
Not Sure But,,,,
As Paris Fashion Week Men continues, labels have been affected by the Let’s See What Works” era. Many are going in new directions. What to make of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton? My first impression was the Three Stooges short “Slippery Silks” from 1936. Moe, Larry, and Curly inherit a dress shop. The guys are really furniture makers and carpenters. The Stooges put on a fashion show with models wearing designs resembling furniture pieces. I laughed so hard as a kid watching this on television reruns.. Now, I am not a child.
The June 2019 collection from LV Menswear felt like an Ikea collaboration. Yes, the location was made for modern media, a square in Paris. But going over the looks, HUH? Gender free, skirts, structures on the body, rain boots, was there a sale at a local flea market? I had a feeling of discomfort thinking about wearing many looks. The kite or lamp or table over the shoulder came across as a bit over the top. How one wear this without feeling a bit ridiculous is beyond me.
The Louis Vuitton menswear client is a first stage luxury buyer. He wants to show-off his money with the giant LV logo plastered on everything worn. In the Social Media Age this is acceptable wealth display behavior. The #LV attracts a lot of “likes” on Instagram.
Don’t Hate
Personally, I would not buy a single piece from the runway. But Virgil is savvy, established. The saying goes, “Don’t Hate! Appreciate! One cannot guilt the brand or designer for going after the market. Asia is fueling fashion’s growth. LV is a business eyeing big profits. As fashion decides to push boundaries, reject many social conventions, the balancing act is a fine one. Success, ridicule, losing touch, or irrelavance can pop out of the one hat.
Highlights-Paris Fashion Week Men
Paris Fashion Week Men 2019 is all about the being a more low key this season. As I go over the collections, I notice the frivolity is out. In it is place is what men will or can wear. Accessories are also making a strong statement this season.
My Likes
For the very few who can afford to buy Hermes Menswear this collection would be well worth the price. Veronique Nichanian’s outer wear pieces were the highlights. Leather pants and suits made for a the man driving an expensive car on the Rivera. I would have to sell a kidney to afford the hoodie jacket in look #34.
Rochas has made a welcomed return to menswear with Frederio Curradi at the helm. He decided no to go over the top but in a subtle direction, with an Earthy color palette. the looks reminded one romantic continental artist complete with beret. My favorite is look #5. If you had an intellectual lover, you would want him to dress like this.
Tom Browne is one of those mad genius creative types, but not tortured. I expected different and he did not disappoint. Elongated stripes and gray looks at times felt like costumes from a 20’s decadent play. Look #18, solid pants, checkerboard blue and white coat and jacket, and sweater gave me energy.
White Mountaineering offered layers, then more layers, All was about statements, one piece or all together. The collection lived up to the mountain name, oversized protection from the elements. I did not have a favorite look because I cannot imagine myself wearing one.
Loewe entered the runway fray with its first show. At times the collection felt more conceptual than wearable but Jonathan Anderson pulled some looks and pieces out of the hat. The wide pants loose shirts, extra reach sleeves were front and center. Look #43 carried the day in my opinion. I would wear each piece as a whole or separate.
Kris Van Assche’s debut at Berluti proved to be the right shot in the arm for the brand. The opening look, a head turning brown leather suit, said, “Menswear look out”. If wear this suit one time, once would be enough.
The collection from Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton proved he is going in the right direction, more focused, fun. LVMH showed brilliance in hiring him. The flay pants were front and center of collection that moved from gray, black to print tops. Look #41, a streetwear look made up of pleated pants with white print shirt is an eye catcher.
Balmain showed 98 looks. Where to start? Olivier Rousteing had a lot to say this season. Black was the basis of the collection. Thrown in were leather, knitwear’s, and denim, all for the club life. Look #19, a black sweater with white breton stripes along with black pants would be my Friday night outfit.
I liked the Dries Van Noten collection.”Wearable” is the term that I can apply with pride. A narrow color palette enhanced the menswear line influenced by music, tailored with emphasis on the waist. Pants came in on the flare and slim side but the tops stood out.
Menswear from PFWM
France 24 reports from Paris Fashion Week Men.
A Preview from Berluti
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Launched in 1895 in Paris by Alessandro Berluti, the eponymous menswear label has a long heritage of being the dandy reference for style. Worn by Frank Sinatra, Robert DiNiro, and Yves Siant Laurent to name a few. Berluti was a brand known for leather shoes and custom bespoke suits.
On a trip to Paris I had an appointment on rue Marbeuf, by luck, the Berluti atelier and store were next door. Could I resist? No! I walked in for a moment of fashion admiration. It is brand I plan to add to my closet.
Belgian Designer Kris Van Assche is now head of the house. The former Dior Menswear designer, is a graduate from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Art. Assche’s appointment as head of the Parisian brand is one I am cautiously happy about this because I think his minimal styled approach could work, male classicism mixed with streetwear influences.
This preview capsule collection gives me hope, the first full fashion show will be be shown at the upcoming Paris Fashion Week Men, nothing over the top, staying with the strengths. The colors scheme is reds, black and white, and tailored suits.
I am still not a fan of the chunky trainer look, maybe it is a generational gap, but Berluti has introduced them. I could also do without the over the top branding. Fashion is a business based on trends, the brand has to cater to what buyers want, and “big” “show your brand” is “in” with consumers.
I am waiting for January 2019 to see if Berluti + Kris van Assche are a team made in fashion heaven. It will be very interesting.
Final Walk from Agnes B.
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Agnes B. Homme
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From Paris Fashion Week Men designer Agnes B. displays rural French heritage on her sleeve. The designer is inspired by rural looks; worker overalls and shirts, all down to Earth. I call her style “Subdued French” yet always wearable.
Miyake @PFWM
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