retail report Archives - BlackandPaper

Karl Lagerfeld took front and center at the Met Gala 2023. KARL LAGERFELD:A LINE OF BEAUTY was the theme of fashion’s biggest Red Carpet. The legendary German helmed the luxury house Chanel for 37 years.

Vogue editor Anna Wintour along with co-hosts Rodger Federer, Dua Lipa, Michaela Coel and Penelope Cruz brought the glitz and glamour to the exclusive Red Carpet affair, raising money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

As with so many other gilded events, this year’s Met Gala came across as awkward. Imagine putting together an IKEA shelf with a 12 degree leftward angle.

Would we go to the most exclusive party in the fashion world? This would be a hard a question to answer. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of the club? However, it’s no secret the fashion industry is swerving on a mountain side road. Retailers as well as brands are feeling a hard pinch. Consumers have cut spending on clothing. Weak brands are falling while the strong ones struggle.

Reality? Who Cares!

Conde Nast has not been immune from shifts. The publishing house has fired staff, issued pay cuts and is decamping in Louboutins for newer, speculation is,,,, cheaper, digs.

I was recently speaking to a press agent about the speed of the change. No one knows who is in charge of publications. Email contacts now have a “no longer working here” instant reply. Journalistic quality has become questionable. What is an objective review? Magazines are now platforms for hire where if you do not pay there is no coverage. Press invites are more of a kin to potluck events, bring your own dish. In the past, agent relations were about seduction with Goodie Bag samples, generous catering and a conversation.

The Good Ole Days are gone. What happens now is more similar to a used car salesman in a polyester plaid suit trying to close a deal before the buyer becomes aware. As many press agents have lost clients, so have their kissing on the cheeks budgets decreased. Only the “In Crowd” may get a trinket. Food, maybe, is a croissant from a corner supermarket, if the lowly overworked intern has time to grab them. Call me adaptable, these days I pack a protein bar with a bottle of water for fashion press events.

Which brings me back to the Met Gala. Sure, it looks great, gilded circus food, cotton candy on a stick. But how long can you eat cotton candy?

The fashion collection many have been waiting for has dropped. The Gap, Ye and Balenciaga collaboration debuted. My first impression. Grim. Misshapen. It took a “genius” to design this!

The Players

Kayne and Gap announced a 10 year partnership in June 2020. For one side the deal made commercial sense, while for the other, a throw of the dice hoping for a lucky double 6 retail turnaround.

It has been no secret the San Francisco based casual wear retailer has been in trouble for a long time. Once a closet staple Gap became a bit boring. Hail Mary Plays are always risking. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. Gap has been closing stores for decades. Once upon a time the American Mall mainstay had the pulse of what buyers wanted, cool ads, colorful jeans at good prices yet somewhere the retailer lost its way as Zara took the style trendsetting crown. Turning to the headline grabber Ye confirmed what fashion insiders knew, Gap was rudderless, looking for a Captain.

The always in the media Rapper Kanye West or Ye needs no introduction. If a person has not heard about his fashion ambition, maybe they were visiting Mars for the past fifteen years. Virgil Abloh was a Ye collaborator before becoming creative head of Louis Vuitton menswear. West with Adidas netted billionaires from their sneaker collection collaboration.

The storied French fashion house Balenciaga run by Demma Gvasalia brings chic continental creditability to this “creative exploration”.

Not Your Parents GAP

The moment arrived on Monday 26^th. Finally, buyers and fans got to see, touch and purchase the first pieces. According to the New York Times article “Is this partnership a cautionary tale or a new model for fashion to come?” The 36 engineered pieces by Balenciaga are a technical revision of classic Gap styled hoodies and t-shirts.

The Gap’s 1960’s California optimistic heritage has been replaced by cheerless style gear.

The Gap Times Square store was re-designed with a dark interior with clothing piled on a table as if in a backstreet vintage shop. Just have at it. No, this is not a joke. Not even racks or neatly folded shirt stacks. Imagine a going out of business sale at Woolworth’s.

Some in the fashion press have been going Goo Goo Ga Ga over this spectacle. Not here. Is this collection a joke? Making fun of buyers who fall the gag.

The die hard fans waiting outside before the store opening in New York City to be the first to buy pieces with the appeal of a bleak video game character. Being hip in the fake til you make it culture comes at a price. Gap built its brand on affordability, suddenly, a $320 for a hoodie, $190 dove print t-shirt.

Buy?

Was it worth it? It depends on who you ask. For Ye, another notch on the belt to becoming fashion mogul. As for for Gap, the retailer needs all the attention it can get. All the recent headlines have been bad. Who gets excited about their namesake Khaki Pants? Balenciaga sent out the word, their part in this trio is done. A merciful “Thank You” to Paris.

Is this fashion’s future or present reality? Sometimes it is better to just back and watch situations unfold from a sideline.

Lastly, if I go to a Gap store, I’ll stick to the basic white t for $15.