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Fashion

Fashion Week Conversations

The Fashion Week Tour has started, yet the fashion business becomes more precarious. This year the challenges are too big to bury our heads in the sand. While we sit on rows during shows, mingle with each other over a sparkling wine, the warning bells are ringing louder. 

Stores Going Wrong

Macy’s, the American retail institution announced the closing of 125 stores, including a Bloomingdales. As a major mall anchor store this is bad news for brick and mortar traffic.

John Lewis, the British High Street staple faces a turbulent future. Sharon White, group head, warned store closures are on the table. The vulnerable department store is having trouble attracting in store clients.

The other Knightsbridge Department store, Harvey Nicols struggles with not so fabulous numbers. 

Dallas based luxury chain Nieman Marcus carries over $5 billion in debt. I saw their buyers at a fashion week event. I wondered what were they buying. When a  retail chain holds a liability of that size, the space for maneuvering is limited.

A Ripple 

The Big Elephant in the Room, a new virus, Coronavirus. A little known city, at least from my point of view, of 11 million inhabitants, Wuhan, has become the epicenter of a possible pandemic. The second largest economy on the planet, closed until further notice. The ripple effects, or tidal wave, are being felt.

Every major fashion house and corporation have large investments in the Middle Kingdom. The short term outlook looks bleak. Chinese consumers count for 30% of luxury goods. Most stores have closed. Burberry reported an 80% sales drop. Is this an harbinger of things to come? We can expect profits shocks in the near future. Secondly, many luxury city destinations will take a hit. With all flights to China cut, retail outlets in Paris, London, and New York will see falling numbers from fewer tourists. More concerning, the light at the end of the tunnel is still out of sight. 

Increased Unknown

Supply chains have come to a stand still. The interruption will possibly be felt by consumers in September. Adidas, Uniqlo, H&M, Gap, etc are heavily dependent on closed Chinese factories. 

Fast Fashion junkies could see an increase in price. Production and logistics will have to be re-thought. The “Made in China” imprint has taken a hit. Brands must come-up new solutions to avoid future interruptions. These may involve moving factories to new locations, perhaps back to USA or Europe.

Yes, there will be some interesting conversations during these fashion weeks.

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Fashion Feature

Action + Words=3

I have written about this subject in the past.  It is easy to protest, be a part of a movement that does not involve negative consequences. Climate change activism continues to stay on the front page.  Greta made the cover of Time magazine as Person of the Year. 

From the New York Times 

However, does Generation Z really feel about the planet and consumption? Primark’s revenue rose 4% with more planned store openings in 2020.

I recently ran across a New York Times article on the Instagram obsessedcrowd concerning shopping.   The divergent values add up the same as 2+2=3. This is the reason many fashion brands are having a difficult time understanding what these consumers want.  Hate fast fashion on social media, run to the store to get a new look, post.   Buy better means buy less, yet on Instagram posting the same look twice is a faux pas that will earn negative comments. Such is the life of digital “W level” celebrity.  A disposable wardrobe in the closet on Saturday, throw it in the garbage on Monday, shopping again on Friday.   

Climate change is a movement, but instant gratification is an entrenched modern behaviour.   


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Fashion

KADEWE redone,, but,,,

Department stores are ingrained the fabrics of cities. Cultural temples of consumption, meeting places to see and be seen. Before World War 2 Berlin had many grand showcases of prosperity lining its big streets and plazas. The sole survivor still in existence today is the KaDeWe on Tauentzienstrasse. Damaged by Allied bombings in 1943 the building closed until its reopening of its first two floors in 1950. Today, owned by Central Group, the giant store boasts over 60.000 square meters covering seven floors. 

The latest renovation of the retail store giant is taking place over a staged periods. Phase 2 opened in this week, the ground floor, fifth  floor, and sixth floor.

First, the ground floor, a narrow funneling traffic approach layout between the LV and Dior concessions. Not the most welcoming or pleasant interior, first impressions. I had feeling of running through a luxury Pac Man game. The funnel or entry track ends in a very cramped make up department at the foot of escalators.

The second renovated floor, house wares department, falls short of imagination with many new brands “just” on display, lacking an engaging effect.

A social meeting place, a hangout, shop for those special items only found in one spot in the city. KaDeWe’s food floor is as much a part of Berlin as the Brandenburg Gate, a reference point. The sixth floor mixed groceries bakeries, mixed cuisine restaurants, and cafes side by side, a local meeting place in many forms. 

Out with old,, Why? 

The remodelled phase one opened in December 2018. The completed second phase recently opened. Half thought out, awkward, lacking warmth comes to my mind. Out with the old footprint, in with the new. In my opinion, the old was better, special, more charm.

The atmospheric lighting is jarring, sterile.  A remodelling blueprint exists, perhaps a bit of a rethink is needed. There is no overall look. New restaurant stalls just plopped in the middle of the floor layout. Tables randomly placed along low glass wall

Reinventing the 21st customer experience is crucial for retailers. Certainly the KaDeWe is moving ahead, but the direction is the question.

The KaDeWe Grand Opening Event was a crowd pleaser.   An all expense gala with over 1800 guests sampling the newly opened restaurants.  

Kadewe Phase 3 opens in December 2020

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Fashion Feature

Our Black Friday List

While on a Saturday visit for lunch at a local department I decided to make a Black Friday List. What are the basis for these recommendations? I was with a friend wondering around a local department store. We browsed, looking for gift ideas on different floors and departments. Some items we have, others what we would like to have.  

An Illy has a conversational look for a kitchen.  The Stelton Pitcher’s Swedish Design fits anywhere. The Filofax has a classic power feel.  The Hourglass Packaging caught our attention because of the packaging. A Hermes Change Purse is affordable luxury to impress.  Egoiste brings back memories.   The Kitchen Aid Blender was recommended. Lastly, Roger Vivier adds a style factor to any  look.

This list leans on the materialistic side, but we were in a store.

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Fashion

A New Concept

As the shopping experience changes, so must retail reinvent itself to stay relevant. On a recent visit to Paris I decided to pay a visit to the new Galeries Lafayette on Champs Elysee. The great boulevard’s stores have changed. In the 90’s this former Virgin Records Super Store offered every genre of music. I discovered Senegalese Jazz there. I remember popping listening to the new release wall. 

In 2019, what is a record store?  A question we will ask about department stores.  As taste and consumer needs move forward, retailers need to respond. Galeries Lafayette’s new store borrows from the concept store in a bigger setting. The 3 floor layout features new brands as well as established labels. Concessions and inshore interior changes regularly while avoiding the shelf clutter of traditional stores.  The obvious focus is to keep the buyer curious with a “What’s New” strategy.  

Only in Paris!

Two Cafes and restaurants situated on the first floor and in the basement are designed for being seen as well as attracting the shared space working clientele.   I bought a cafe and pastry then took a seat to check my schedule on my tablet.  

As I have stayed a few times. Department stores continue to feel like a place where our Grandparents went to buy stocking after World War 2. Galeries Lafayette gets a good mark for bringing mass retail into the 21stcentury.  

Galleries Lafayette is located at 60 Avenue des Champs Elysees, Paris

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Fashion

Ikea is a Retail Example

I recently paid a visit to my nearest IKEA. Usually these excursions are planned. They evolve into an outing. Dinner, and perhaps a dessert. The cafeteria is a busy mixture of every group from retirees, young families, to single nesters. After the final coffee we take the usual “see what’s new” walk. The stores one way track path layout means you have to see everything on offer. The store scenes change from one area to another. Ideals for a small apartment space, a new kitchen, to an office setting. When I walked from one section to section, it reminded me of the “It’s a Small World” ride at Disneyland. 

As I was trolling at a leisure pace I could not help but admire the brands soft sell approach. Wondering other retailers have not evolved. Department Stores and shopping malls have become dinosaurs. Any wonder why they are headed for extinction? Reading a chapter from founder Ingvar Kamprad’s book should be required for all retail executives.  A  reinvention blueprint for mass retailing.

21st Century Shopping 

2019 is a constant flow of stimuli. Customers want to be scene but alone able to plug in a device. Ikea has all of this. The store offers surprises  on every visit. As brick and mortar chains die an agonizing death it baffles me why many did not change course. The public still enjoys a day out of the house, however they prefer experience, not humdrum. Walking into many department stores, the descriptive word that pops to mind is “drab”.   All offering the same items, the same brands, the same in store concessions.  Working with formulas from the 20th century..  It is no wonder customers have been fleeing main street stores. Management blames customers not themselves for being unable to keep up with the times.  However, if a Swedish furniture store can make profits, why can’t they?

Shopping involves more than just walking into a building.    Buyers want an experience, to be a part of something satisfy different needs.   I hope retailers can figure this out before it is too late.  Todays shoppers have moved on.

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Beauty Feature

A Paris Memory

Paris. I look back with so many fond memories. No matter how small or how big, the city inspires.  I had a cafe at a bar in Galeries Lafayette overlooking the make up area. Pure Joy! 

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Fashion

Lust Looks Great!

If lust for a bag is wrong.  I do not want to be right.  I want the bag. 

I am a fan of the Loewe Puzzle XI Bag. Its cube shape has intrigues me from the first time I saw it. Why? When it comes to a bag there is no reason, no logic, only emotion. Emotion cannot be explained, only experienced. Not the most practical for carrying a laptop or work gear, but I do not care. A 2.300 euro bag is not a need of life, but a desire.

Loewe is not as well known as Bally, Louis Vuitton, Dior, or Gucci. The Spanish label has a rich history of producing luxury leather goods. Founded in 1846 by leather craftsman, today, the brand is headed by British designer Johnathan Anderson.

While in Paris, I visited the Loewe bag, held it. Should I buy my ultimate accessory? There is an empty space in my closet. Of course the sales person did not have a hard time convincing me how good it looked on my shoulder. I prefer the black one but the brown one stood out.

No worries about me getting my money’s worth. When I have the Puzzle XI I am taking an ancient Asian religious perpsective on my materialistic lust. I have given instructions to be cremated with the bag. If I am coming back to life in another form, this bag is returning with me in one shape or another.

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Feature Travel

Christmas Season in Paris!

The Tree 

When I am in the Paris, I cannot help but go into the department store to see what the theme will be for the season.It is always a pleasure to sit at one of the cafes in Glaeries Lafayette to look up at the Christmas Decorations under the dome. I waited for the light show, every 30 minutes, to light up around the tree. It sounds a bit of pop sugar overdose, almost as bad a Marie Osmond, but I could not resist. It did not disappoint.  I was enchanted.

2019’s motif is centered around the experience of the aurora borealis. Partnering with Maison Piaget. The Christmas Tree is trimmed with gifts, watch and jewelry designs from the luxury brand.

Galeries Lafayette on Blvd Haussmann 

Categories
Fashion Travel

Fashion Expedition

Shopping for a bargain is always an adventure.  I call these outings “Fashion Expeditions”.  My latest expedition took me to the Ingolstadt Village in the south of German, located in this center are over 130 stores from many top designers and brands. The center is architectural fairytale kitsch painted in soft pastel colors designed with a simple one trail layout of stores on both sides.   Europeans may find it a bit plastic but being an American, I felt at home.

When shopping for bargains or at outlet centers it is important to do a bit of research.  Check prices at local sales outlets then make a plan.  Buying the first thing you see is not what I recommend, explore first to see what is on offer.  I usually go from store to store for a first round venture to check out what store  has what.   For me, 50% off the retail price is minimal incentive to shop at an outlet center because they are usually outside city centers, meaning the savings have to be worth the travel.

My Store Experiences:

Ralph Lauren Price Tag

Ralph Lauren– This store had a large selection of men’s and women’s fashion..  Were the prices good? On some items, yes, I bought t-shirts and underwear. The prices were comparable to TK Maxx but with many fashion choices from the designer label, a shopper could not go wrong.  The customer service was excellent. I spent 72 euros.

Bally-The Swiss luxury brand outlet store had great discounts up to 70% off, but sadly for me, nothing in my shoe size. I really wanted a pair of leather trainers at 75 euros in blue or black.

Tod’s-I was hypnotized in the Italian luxury shoe wear brand’s store.  Blue leather hi top trainers or round toe suede ankle boots 70% off.  I decided on the round boots, classic style for only 125 euros but there was a bit of remorse about leaving the hi-tops.

Trussardi Jeans-This brand’s menswear collections was on hit for sweaters and jackets.  A button down wool sweater and slim cut pants were on my menu at 70%.  The fit was perfect. The sales staff was very patient to say the least. How many sweaters did I try on? A LOT! I am sure I drove the sales  people to the nearest bar at quitting time.

Sunglasses-I wandered into this small store on the corner by accident, a nice selection of brands and styles.  The sales lady was welcoming telling me the store had a reduction on many designer frames.  I ended up buying a pair of Marc Jacobs sunglasses for a steal at 65%.

Gant-A spacious store divided by one side for womenswear, the other for menswear.  The premium brand had many items at deep discounts.  I was looking for a gift.   I found the perfect outerwear in the form of a 100% wool poncho at 80% off.

Gucci Jacket

Gucci-The top luxury brand retained its status even at a discount.  The boutique was first class all the way from service to clothing on hand, temptation on every shelf.   I wanted a bag. I saw a jacket all at a major discount.  I had to walk away on blow my budget.  When a person says, “GUCCI AT A BIG DISCOUNT”   it is hard to walk away without feeling shaken.

A very productive shopping outing at the Ingolstadt Village, my fashion needs were met without breaking my wallet.  If you are planning a “Fashion Expedition” in Europe put Ingolstadt Village on your list.

For more information go to: Ingolstadt Village