Street fashion is a statement of independence. A mixing of top to bottom pieces to stand out from the crowd. At Pitti Uomo Raf Ryes talks about his streetwear brand VERYRARE. The Paris based designer discusses his influences and inspiration behind the label as well as the designs that are based on artworks.
Milan Fashion Week Men starts on January 13th 2023. What is going to be the latest trend from the Italian city? A bit curious, I have not been to a mens week event since 2019. I am not just writing this cause of all the masculine models or encountering the sometimes “GROUCHY” press agents. Mens fashion weeks tend to be more intimate than the female counterparts.
The fashion collection many have been waiting for has dropped. The Gap, Ye and Balenciaga collaboration debuted. My first impression. Grim. Misshapen. It took a “genius” to design this!
Kayne and Gap announced a 10 year partnership in June 2020. For one side the deal made commercial sense, while for the other, a throw of the dice hoping for a lucky double 6 retail turnaround.
It has been no secret the San Francisco based casual wear retailer has been in trouble for a long time. Once a closet staple Gap became a bit boring. Hail Mary Plays are always risking. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. Gap has been closing stores for decades. Once upon a time the American Mall mainstay had the pulse of what buyers wanted, cool ads, colorful jeans at good prices yet somewhere the retailer lost its way as Zara took the style trendsetting crown. Turning to the headline grabber Ye confirmed what fashion insiders knew, Gap was rudderless, looking for a Captain.
The always in the media Rapper Kanye West or Ye needs no introduction. If a person has not heard about his fashion ambition, maybe they were visiting Mars for the past fifteen years. Virgil Abloh was a Ye collaborator before becoming creative head of Louis Vuitton menswear. West with Adidas netted billionaires from their sneaker collection collaboration.
The storied French fashion house Balenciaga run by Demma Gvasalia brings chic continental creditability to this “creative exploration”.
The moment arrived on Monday 26th. Finally, buyers and fans got to see, touch and purchase the first pieces. According to the New York Times article “Is this partnership a cautionary tale or a new model for fashion to come?” The 36 engineered pieces by Balenciaga are a technical revision of classic Gap styled hoodies and t-shirts.
The Gap’s 1960’s California optimistic heritage has been replaced by cheerless style gear.
The Gap Times Square store was re-designed with a dark interior with clothing piled on a table as if in a backstreet vintage shop. Just have at it. No, this is not a joke. Not even racks or neatly folded shirt stacks. Imagine a going out of business sale at Woolworth’s.
Some in the fashion press have been going Goo Goo Ga Ga over this spectacle. Not here. Is this collection a joke? Making fun of buyers who fall the gag.
The die hard fans waiting outside before the store opening in New York City to be the first to buy pieces with the appeal of a bleak video game character. Being hip in the fake til you make it culture comes at a price. Gap built its brand on affordability, suddenly, a $320 for a hoodie, $190 dove print t-shirt.
Was it worth it? It depends on who you ask. For Ye, another notch on the belt to becoming fashion mogul. As for for Gap, the retailer needs all the attention it can get. All the recent headlines have been bad. Who gets excited about their namesake Khaki Pants? Balenciaga sent out the word, their part in this trio is done. A merciful “Thank You” to Paris.
Is this fashion’s future or present reality? Sometimes it is better to just back and watch situations unfold from a sideline.
Lastly, if I go to a Gap store, I’ll stick to the basic white t for $15.
Before Tacky podcast talks to Phil Cody about his shoe brand Cody & Co.
Click below to watch.
Paris Fashion Week Men kicked off this season online. In the New Normal fashion shows are not in style. Designers delivered their latest looks via digital platforms. Below are some highlights:
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Stay Tuned for full reviews.
I liked #RiccardoTisci's #Burberry collection shown at #LFW. But I think 400 for a #tshirt is a bit too much for simple cotton material. I love #fashion but there are limits. #style #streetwearfashion #menswear #mensfashion #ootdfashion #fashionstyle pic.twitter.com/bCrFcKGR3n
— BlackandPaper (@BlackandPaper1) September 18, 2018
YES! I thought the first Tisci collection for Burberry was a shot in the arm for the brand. He made the looks feel modern while a bit edgy at London Fashion Week.
I will say, I think the new $400 t-shirt is a bit too much, simple cotton at that price. I think this becomes fashion fooletry! Hype, madness, perfect for the Bling Instagram Age of faking it until you make it. I need more than a logo over my heart to make me part ways with that amount of cash for a basic item. Is it JUST ME?
Shopping for a bargain is always an adventure. I call these outings “Fashion Expeditions”. My latest expedition took me to the Ingolstadt Village in the south of German, located in this center are over 130 stores from many top designers and brands. 
The center is architectural fairytale kitsch painted in soft pastel colors designed with a simple one trail layout of stores on both sides. Europeans may find it a bit plastic but being an American, I felt at home.
When shopping for bargains or at outlet centers it is important to do a bit of research. Check prices at local sales outlets then make a plan. Buying the first thing you see is not what I recommend, explore first to see what is on offer. I usually go from store to store for a first round venture to check out what store has what. For me, 
50% off the retail price is minimal incentive to shop at an outlet center because they are usually outside city centers, meaning the savings have to be worth the travel.
My Store Experiences:
Ralph Lauren– This store had a large selection of men’s and women’s fashion.. Were the prices good? On some items, yes, I bought t-shirts and underwear. The prices were comparable to TK Maxx but with many fashion choices from the designer label, a shopper could not go wrong. The customer service was excellent. I spent 72 euros.
Bally-The Swiss luxury brand outlet store had great discounts up to 70% off, but sadly for me, nothing in my shoe size. I really wanted a pair of leather trainers at 75 euros in blue or black.
Tod’s-I was hypnotized in the Italian luxury shoe wear brand’s store. Blue leather hi top trainers or round toe suede ankle boots 70% off. I decided on the round boots, classic style for only 125 euros but there was a bit of remorse about leaving the hi-tops.
Trussardi Jeans-This brand’s menswear collections was on hit for sweaters and jackets. A button down wool sweater and slim cut pants were on my menu at 70%. The fit was perfect. The sales staff was very patient to say the least. How many sweaters did I try on? A LOT! I am sure I drove the sales people to the nearest bar at quitting time.
Sunglasses-I wandered into this small store on the corner by accident, a nice selection of brands and styles. The sales lady was welcoming telling me the store had a reduction on many designer frames. I ended up buying a pair of Marc Jacobs sunglasses for a steal at 65%.
Gant-A spacious store divided by one side for womenswear, the other for menswear. The premium brand had many items at deep discounts. I was looking for a gift. I found the perfect outerwear in the form of a 100% wool poncho at 80% off.
Gucci-The top luxury brand retained its status even at a discount. The boutique was first class all the way from service to clothing on hand, temptation on every shelf. I wanted a bag. I saw a jacket all at a major discount. I had to walk away on blow my budget. When a person says, “GUCCI AT A BIG DISCOUNT” it is hard to walk away without feeling shaken.
A very productive shopping outing at the Ingolstadt Village, my fashion needs were met without breaking my wallet. If you are planning a “Fashion Expedition” in Europe put Ingolstadt Village on your list.
For more information go to: Ingolstadt Village
The London based fashion brand gives Black and Paper a quick brief on a look a sexy statement look.
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London Fashion Week Men’s looks come in all shapes and sizes from the Dandy to the Belle to the Sexy
