We spoke with fashion Editor in Chief Alex Popov on the upcoming trends in menswear. What to expect?
Tag: streetwear
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Hi Tops from Dior
I looked over the Dior Pre-Fall Collection. Kim Jones continues to lean to streetwear for inspiration. His commercial instincts are solid. Luxury labels must court new buyers to stay relevant. I am not sure where the line is drawn between courting and desperate attempt.
The new Nike Air Jordan hi-top crosses the border. The association reminds me of an LA Swap Meet stall. I do understand the inspiration other than some street credibility. In all honesty, it takes tacky to an overpriced level. For many reasons this type of cross over collaboration reminds me of Pierre Cardin licensing products in the 1980’s. Where did that end?
Lastly, with all certainty, this new sneaker will have millions of fake copies in a matter of weeks. On sale at the Swap Meet for 29.99.
A interpretation of a peacoat, Moneta adds vivid colours to classic outwear. I grabbed him for a quick review at the presentation. My verdict, I liked it. But I may have been biased.
Austrian brand Alpha Tauri is now on sale in the Berlin department store KaDeWe. The Red Bull owned label is new on the fashion block. The team introduced me to the brand at Press Days last fall. The collection is based on premium outer and athletic leisurewear made in Europe. Emphasizing high tech materials and 3-D printing production techniques are the core approach.
Design wise I would say the pieces combine the masculine with the minimal.
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Fanny Pack,,Not!
The fanny pack has become a luxury brand staple. An accessory once regulated to streetwear to brands like Nike and Puma. Luxury makers have recently picked on the trend by introducing their own versions. Louis Vuitton’s 1500 euro item sets the standard in the fashionista category. My opinion: I will never own one. Do not get me wrong, , except for jogging around the park. Using one for every day use is my style. I don’t wonder how a sportswear piece graduated to the luxury leagues. Fashion has moved in every direction. Items once not a part of a brand’s DNA are now key drivers of collections.
Never could I imagine wearing a fanny pack as a fashion piece. Especially, one emblazoned with a designer logo protruding from my waist. The feel is tacky, gimmicky, a here and now item that will become a dated fad.
I use bags because I carry around a PC, camera, cards, and everything needed for business. A small, overpriced piece of leather does me no good. I recommend getting a full size bag that will last with time.
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Statement Menswear
While At Pitti Uomo this year I stumbled on the menswear brand In The Box. I am a fan of knitwear, then mixed with color. It has my attention. For a gentlemen looking for statement accessories, I recommend the label. The Italian company produces all of its collection in Italy.
For the nearest store and to learn more about the brand:
Intheboxshop.it
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A Sportswear Rival Born.
Spyder is a Korean-American active wear label. I attended the presentation last June. I found the collection impressive. In January 2019 at Milan Fashion Week Men the brand held its first runway show. Menswear mingled with a few womenswear looks.
It is too early to say if Spyder can become a rival to the likes of Nike or Under Armour but they are giving it a try.
Images by Flo from Milan Creative
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Has Gucci Gone Too Far?
Has Gucci gone too far? A recent the New York Times article asked the question, “Is Gucci stylish or tacky?” The answer could go in both ways according the perspective. Gucci embraced the modern. In many ways the looks reflect the “Selfie Times”. See me! This is what I got! Instagram posting moment! Because life is not about being subtle. Because these designs are made with social media in mind, it is all about the post. During Fashion Week Milan in February I got an up close and personal go see of the entire collection at the Gucci Campus in Milan. Creative Director Alessandro Michele has taken the brand into new areas unashamed personal expression. For those who like the subdued, buy a British Heritage Brand.
This Fall Collection mixed with pop references and styles. There is no one silhouette. It is about being photographed in the here and now, no matter what is worn. The aesthetic is classic meets frivolity, everyday items charged with bling. The pieces can be mixed and match with streetwear for a standout effect, casual jeans with a baseball cap emblazoned with a “G” on top. For bag fanatics in all of us with the urge to show off, the exotic skins and shapes with shining details are there. You cannot help but get noticed with this accessory hanging on your arm. The details are many, such as embroidery, logos, and prints.
What I liked the most was the overcoat with a twist of three visual styles. One half was traditional gentlemen’s gray while the other mixed tartan with an animation print on the bottom. The gender look is menswear but in reality it could be effortlessly worn by anyone. Honestly, I would not wear an entire Gucci look. It would overwhelm me. One piece would be enough for an entrance.
Gucci Fall 2018 looks are available in stores.
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London Looks
London Fashion Week Men
A creative capital that is once again remaking itself in the Brexit Age is still a force in streetwear judging by the initial looks from Mensweek. London is a city where fashion designers are never afraid to take a risk, ripping up the script then doing it differently.
Oliver Spencer’s interpretation of accessibility combined with a fresh look of today. Mixing a few female looks, the designer seemed to have been in a state of past Chic London when he came up with this very masculine collection, the everyday dandy. I liked the jackets because they looked so elegantly casual.
I cannot put my finger on why I like Cottweiler’s 
collection. Utility, sportswear mingled in streetwear looks that were about strength using leathers along with blue dyed print trousers with shoulder bag my favorite. Ben and Matthew have a great eye for fashionable guy wear with street cred The compliant from Vogue, the run way show was too dark.
Playful, colorful, but all the wearable, Band of Outsiders used ski equipment to go along with images of the Fall 18 collection. Track pants and outerwear were the highlights of the collection with an eye on humor.
London Fashion Week Men takes place from Jan 5th to Jan 8th.
During London Fashion Week Men’s I managed to ask Mr. Cabourn at his presentation about the collection, Anti-War was the theme.
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