Still, in yet another lockdown since November the barbers and hair salons have been closed. Perhaps, getting a hair appointment, maybe possible on March 1st. Until then, with all my online conferences, interviews and meetings, I do not want to want to leave a lasting impression with a James Brown mugshot hairstyle. I adapted a lockdown style. It’s one thing to have a “Bad Hair day”. But, like everyone during these times, I am living “Bad Hair Months”. I may wear mismatched socks under the desk, but the thought of having unruly hair immortalized on social media is a no go zone, an epic nightmare.
Thankfully, luxury Italian hat brand Borsalino gave me some hats to use. Each style has been a lifesaver. I decide on a hat and shirt before the digital medium close up.
Thank you to the Borsalino Team for giving me the hats.
While going over looks from Tokyo Fashion Week I came across Fashion Designer Apocrypha. The color combinations and lace materials grabbed my attention. I sent him an email. Happily, Creative Head Reiji Harimoto responded to grant Black and Paper an interview.
What does the white represent in the collection?
It has several meanings. First, the white must be a standard color in the style of the historical background, imagined the situation in Europe during the regent era. Second, this collection is inspired by Charles Baudelaire’s collection of poems. It only has the information of black ink visually dropped on white paper. However, there are an infinite number of colors that can be imagined from that information. Black ink on paper is generally colored by subtractive mixing, but by reading this as letters, one can imagine a scene that is colored by additive mixing from a dark state with nothing in the head. In this collection, white is the imagination of color, which is the basis of subtractive mixing. His poems are colored based on the experience of the reader, who must have fallen in love once.
DANDY
Lace is more of a feminine material but you have incorporated the material in the menswear looks, why?
I think Baudelaire’s poetry is an objective and abstract depiction of Baudelaire’s own life, which always depends on women. I also wanted to express such a view of the world. It may be “feminine” by being worn by women. However, when men wear it, it has some kind of matured ”masculinity”. Maybe I wanted to get rid of the peculiarity. Also, during the time of George Brian Brummell’s life, which is the origin of “Dandy”, the way of life of Baudelaire, mechanical lace knitting machines were born in England. It is a technology that has survived the Luddite movement and continues to evolve to the present day. Isn’t that too wasteful to categorize by gender?
DANDY Lace is more of a feminine material but you have incorporated the material in the menswear looks, why?I think Baudelaire’s poetry is an objective and abstract depiction of Baudelaire’s own life, which always depends on women. I also wanted to express such a view of the world. It may be “feminine” by being worn by women. However, when men wear it, it has some kind of matured ”masculinity”. Maybe I wanted to get rid of the peculiarity. Also, during the time of George Brian Brummell’s life, which is the origin of “Dandy”, the way of life of Baudelaire, mechanical lace knitting machines were born in England. It is a technology that has survived the Luddite movement and continues to evolve to the present day. Isn’t that too wasteful to categorize by gender?
Gothic Chic
What is the Gothic link to the Spring 21 designs?
The answer depends on what you mean by “Gothic” in the question. If I dare to answer in the first place, if you see this collection and feel the Gothic element, it is a scene that you can see from the background of the times, as answered in the first question. If so, I think I have succeeded in expressing my most important “collection should be a literary art drawn with clothes”.
Lace
Are you making a gender statement about modern fashion?
In Japan, it seems that gender controversy is often going in the wrong direction. For example, regarding feminism, misandry ideas are strongly felt, and relatively aggressive claims are becoming mainstream in SNS and social media. Many are neither calm nor academic. I don’t think it is desirable to have a conflict with a principle. Also, there are many women with strong social status around me in the fashion industry. When I listen to their opinions, I think that the stronger those claims are, the more isolated they are, and the more the conflict of principles is just creating a groove. I think the same can be said from liberalism and other ideas. That’s why I wanted to create a categorized creation.
Oversized
Where would a guy wear your pieces?
The image of a man I imagine exists in a twilight space between morning and night at dawn, between daily and extraordinary. It’s just an imagination, and in reality, I’d like you to put it into your own identity and wear it as your own in every scene of everyday life. Because the person who wears it in every scene is the main character. If you’re in Hollywood and your main character is a profession, maybe it’s only when you’re on the red carpet.
Oversized with Color
I noticed the A/W collection was oversized with layers combined with streetwear style, what influenced this?
Reproduced relatively faithfully to the historical background. I create all the patterns myself, so every season there is a theme in pattern making as well as design. In the theme of the collection, we analyze the social situation and trends of the historical background and calculate back from the one at that time to create a pattern. You cannot create an atmosphere that feels “somehow” just by adding details to the existing body. This is also the theme of life, which is always in conflict between commercial design and authorship.
Stay Tuned for Before Tacky Podcast. Interviews with Fashion Professionals.
Highlights from the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Over the next few days check back for more details. But meanwhile, sit back and enjoy the creative power of these looks.
Milan Fashion kicked off in the virtual mode this season. We the world under some form of lockdown, buyers and press are unable to travel. The Italian fashion capital put its best foot forward but going direct to the point. Filming closed runway shows instead of Calvin Klein Commercials. I want to say “Thank You”.
It’s easy to spot the trend this season: staying home. All is casual. For Italian designers this could be a blessing in disguise. Comfort took center stage. Using quality fabrics and relaxed looks that could transition from home office to going out for a stroll worked on many levels. It felt a bit as if the designers are under less pressure with some reinvention in their minds. Is a new classic emerging?
French Italian fashion designer Pierre Cardin passed away yesterday. France 24 remembers the groundbreaking designer known for his futuristic styles using shapes and materials. A true pioneer in the fashion world had a sixty year career in fashion working for Christian Dior. Cardin created styles for luminaries as The Beatles and Elizabeth Taylor.
I asked Bocheron Creative Head Claire Choisne about a new piece from the Contemplation Collection. The statement Arrow Earring Piece struck me as gender free elegance with a tinge of radical from the historic jewellery brand.
The Arrow Earpiece, I saw it was worn by a man. Is this a gender free piece?
It was actually the first time we chose a man in our campaign. When the model tried the earring, it was so cool, even cooler on a male. I don’t know why men are not wearing jewelry because we also design pieces for them. High Jewelry should not be only for women. When I saw the man with the earring, I felt it was perfect and the right person to wear it. I am so happy if you notice that.
I went to the Ingolstadt Outlet Center outside of Ingolstadt Germany. The 110 store center had pretty much all I wanted as a Bargain Hunter, designer stores with some very good prices. As a habitual shopper with less cash but a lot of ambition designer outlets are heaven sent. I have to stretch my “fabu budget” anyway I can.
Covid 19, health and safety concerns come first. Located at each main entrance there is a guard to take temperatures as well as body temperature scanners. Each store allows only so many people in at a time. At the better known brands there were lines, so be prepared to wait a few minutes. I had to skip the Calvin Klein Underwear shop because of the long waiting time.
Plan First
40% Off
Diesel
Only 100 but too big
As the shopping conditions were different, I needed to make a plan. Get the layout in my head. Find my favorite brands, get a cafe while planning the logistics and visits Simple, start from one end, work my way around. Easier said than done. I got distracted by the Bally Store. There was no line plus, I am a fan. The markdown was too good to pass up. The service was also good. I got a pair of shoes and belt for good prices. Continuing to work to end, Prada Store but busy, happily they told me to comback or make an appointment. I did the latter
Surprisingly there was no line to get in Versace. The sales guy was wonderful. My find of the day, I got a scarf for 15 euros.
Back to Prada. Sneakers on last mark down for 100 euros. I wanted them, but sadly, too large. Life is cruel.
Covid Test Point
Tod’s
Michael Kors
There is something for everyone. I admit a few brands could have been more generous with the markdowns. 50% off is my minimal point. Anything less makes me feel unwanted.
During these days many of the stores now have phone in and WhatsApp service. Call and ask what for the latest outlet offerings. They will even send pictures and arrange for package delivery.
Shop at Ingolstadt Outlet Centre year round near Ingolstadt Germany.
