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Fashion

My Highlights from London

The United Kingdom is going through a lot. A government just holding its head above water, under siege on all fronts. Like the rest of the world, Covid has taken a toll on the country. Citizens refusing to understand the gravity of the virus. The Brexit drama continues its tortuous walk to an end of a year climax. 

On the fashion side, London Fashion Week, the smallest of the Big Four events mixed online and live shows. I have always had the opinion the British capital city charts a different course from Milan, Paris, and New York. The ability to make “quirky” work. To take a classic style, then completely transform the look with an edgy print, material, or cut. This is London’s secret as a fashion tolerant city.

My Highlights 

Burberry by Tischi, not a great collection shown in a forest setting. But I liked the solid colors of blues and oranges. The mix of denim on an all weather coat not so much. Save that for the influencers who take 30 selfies a day.

As an American, when I saw Erdem’s collection I though of romantic fantasy from an 18thcentury novel. The story reads, woman meets man on a walk, they fall in love but have others while longing for each other. The long lengths, whites and soft floral prints would be worn by the heroine of the tale. 

I am not familiar LaQuan Smith but better late than never. Street fabulous meets Glam best describes a brand that goes for sex appeal without the guilt.

Halpern decided to feature real front line workers in his presentation. Normally, I am not in favor of “real people” as models. However, his creations were about empowerment merged with optimism. Frilling Pom Pom Dresses and suits made of spirited colors and prints.

Emilia Wickstead’s white sail boat prints, cropped tops and cottons made for delightful collection. I wished I had been there to touch each piece. The complication was the fact each delicate look came across as simple.

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Fashion

Does Fashion Need This?

Is there a need for fashion week? Being fashion enthusiasts we have to ponder this question. I recently spoke to a TV editor. He said, “No way will I attend a fashion show”. As the world continues reeling from Covid 19 the need for a new wardrobe, questionable. September is fashion month. Normally this time of you, packing, invites, calling colleagues about where to meet. Not this time. I got a few live invites, but did not expect many.  

The First of the Big Four Fashion Weeks starts today.

As the numbers of infections increase in France, Italy, and UK, sitting in front row feels a bit oblivious. Bags, shoes, and complete looks to wear in front for a Zoom. The style effect gets lost from the neck down.

So many fashion related business face challenges. Models are no longer booked. Their agencies face closing.  Magazines struggle to fill ad pages. Retailers attached to life support. Customers fearful of loosing jobs, have less discretionary income.

 The future is not clear for all. One certaninty: the fashion industry’s day of reckoinig has arrived.

Stay Tuned for more on this subject.  And of course, Black and Paper will cover the fashion weeks. 

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Fashion

Streetwear Collaboration

Luxury fashion and streetwear brands continue to unite.   What do I think of the Prada-Adidas Collaboration launched today?  Are these worth the price? Stay Tuned for my opinion.

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Fashion

Paris Fashion Week Couture

The New Normal has affected glamour. Nothing has been untouched. The first Paris Fashion Week Couture moved online this season.   I expected straight forward presentations but some brands took inspirations from different sources, producing short films. 

This is an overview of Day 1. 

An added bonus, menswear looks from Hermes. 

https://youtu.be/MSOt2_kUXBg

My  reaction to seeing fashion online.  I am a bit sad.  Part of the fun is attending the shows, soaking in the atmosphere, witnessing the creativity.                               

Is the future of the fashion business online? I am not convinced.  Stay tuned for my video. 

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Fashion

Black Fashion Designers

Harpers Bazaar takes a look at Black Fashion Designers over the years.   

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Fashion

Paris 2020

From France 24 reports on Paris Fashion Week. This year Diversity took centre stage at the bi annual event. 

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Fashion

A New Concept

As the shopping experience changes, so must retail reinvent itself to stay relevant. On a recent visit to Paris I decided to pay a visit to the new Galeries Lafayette on Champs Elysee. The great boulevard’s stores have changed. In the 90’s this former Virgin Records Super Store offered every genre of music. I discovered Senegalese Jazz there. I remember popping listening to the new release wall. 

In 2019, what is a record store?  A question we will ask about department stores.  As taste and consumer needs move forward, retailers need to respond. Galeries Lafayette’s new store borrows from the concept store in a bigger setting. The 3 floor layout features new brands as well as established labels. Concessions and inshore interior changes regularly while avoiding the shelf clutter of traditional stores.  The obvious focus is to keep the buyer curious with a “What’s New” strategy.  

Only in Paris!

Two Cafes and restaurants situated on the first floor and in the basement are designed for being seen as well as attracting the shared space working clientele.   I bought a cafe and pastry then took a seat to check my schedule on my tablet.  

As I have stayed a few times. Department stores continue to feel like a place where our Grandparents went to buy stocking after World War 2. Galeries Lafayette gets a good mark for bringing mass retail into the 21stcentury.  

Galleries Lafayette is located at 60 Avenue des Champs Elysees, Paris

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Fashion

Shoes from Milan #1

Milan Fashion Week is always about shoes. The city with so many designers never disappoints me on presentation visits. Whether a popular name or an up and comer, there are many stylized appealing footwear. 

South American Inspiration from Stuart Weitzman 


Floral and Animal Print from Giuseppe Zanotti 

Traditional Style from Doucals

Glam from Jimmy Choo 

Stay Tuned for more in depth coverage and reviews. 

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Fashion

Black and Paper at Milan Fashion Week

My Reliable BFF

Milan Fashion Week was exhausting, a tight and grueling schedule. Many shortened presentations and events running alongside Fashion Shows made for eleven hour days. Once again the reliable Milan Metro System became my best friend.

As a whole, the Furla collection was a bit underwhelming. 

The Milan Fashion Scene is under going a crisis, a type of creative insecurity. The feeling was more in a neutral space with designers venturing to the demure side. No designs stood above the rest. Moving away from creative statements, commercial needs take precedent. At the time of writing I am going over the looks from the runways and presentations. My opinion may change in the future, stay tuned.

Bulgaria Bags with the Scarab clasp.  The embroided handbag was a key piece.

Fashion like any business needs new ideas, renewel. A source of my appreication comes from independent designers. Talking to them, seeing the designs inspire me.  If they hit it big I can say “I met him or her when”.

Luxury brand Cinzia Rocca stayed true to the classic form this season while introducing new accessories.

Chunky Craze 

From Sketchers, A 90’s retro look.  Chunky Sneakers are a part of the brand DNA.  

BrunoThe Chunky Sneaker trend continues to reign supreme. Every house and designer have answered the call. As a non-fan, it is hard to write good things about this. Walking around with a tank on my foot is not my ideal of style. What was once a niche footwear has now gone mainstream. The other streetwear piece niche now in the style conscience scene, the belt bag. The inescapable fashion accessory piece is a must have. Will I buy one? NO! They lack an elegance I look for a bag. Not complementing but portruding from the waist the same as a hernia.

Bruno Cucinelli soft looks are made for easy styling.  Each cable knit sweater takes 36 hours to produce.

Get a Job

Lastly, Instagram Ego’s were not in short supply. The business of “Selfie Promotion” has gotten so large, many Carrie Bradshaw Wannabes’s brought partners to take pictures and videos to records their experiences. A few seasons ago they were welcomed, now attendees are visibly rolling eyes. Weariness! How many Instagram Influencers posting a picture of themselves can attend a show? If any out there think this is a full time career, my advice would be to start acquiring new skill sets.

Stay Tuned for more coverage.

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Fashion

Love the Unexpected

During Milan Fashion Week I had a very pleasant surprise. I did not plan on attending this presentation. A friend of mine had to talk me into it. Keep in mind on top of the 100 or so appointments I had on this day adding another was not something I wanted to do. I decided to go along with my friend to the presentation. Great surprises come from the unexpected. Curiel started in 1945 as a dress maker for the La Scala Set in Milan. Since that time the brand has stayed true to its origins. Making dresses representing LA DOLCE VITA! Classic, feminine, and beautiful. 

I met the 2ndgeneration owner of the label. A wonderful person radiating elegance.   Raffaella told me the history of the her family’s brand.

Going over looks not pandering to the “now” trend went down like a glass of wine. I had to enjoy the moment. Understanding modern clothing is about being seen. Perhaps Curiel would seem old fashion in today’s Instagram scene. No matter, the ultimate test is time. The brand’s heritage looks could still turn heads.