The fashion crisis is at hand. When journalist from major publications start sounding the bell over the lack of creativity on the recent runways, there are big problems. What took them so long to see the trees? For years the head in the sand was the modus operandi in the glamorous circles of Milan, Paris, New York and London. Corporations could squeeze designers dry with as many as eight to ten collections a year. When the creative is dry, on the next one. Corporate heads needed shows to sell everything from over priced hand bags to perfumes. Social media’s inexhaustible need for flashy images contributed to fashion’s current tango on the cliffside. Influencers came cheap, while cheapened the value of once aspirational brands.
The fashion world will have fewer cheek to cheek kisses in the coming months.
Boy, did I get this wrong. Anna Wintour is the Great Survivor. The ultimate editor in chief had a hard 2020. Not only are magazine sales plummeting, Black Lives Matter has placed a spot light on company policies. By her own admittance, Vogue was not a friendly work place for people of color with a lack of diversity. Then came the remarks from ex bff Andre Talley. Speculation was rife, those sunglasses would be packing up, leaving the New York Conde Nast headquarters at the right time.
The past few weeks have major exits of international Vogue editors. Chinese founding head Angelica Cheung departed in November. It was last week, when I got a sudden message, German Vogue chief Christian Arp would leave her position at Conde Nast in December citing personal reasons after 17 years at the magazine. Business of Fashion reported Arp was pushed out. Vogue Spain editor Eugenia de la Torriente resigned last month. What is going on at the publishing house?
Talk About Being WRONG!! Wintour from Vogue
Not All On One Card
Conde Nast honcho Roger Lynch has decided to streamline operations as well as have one voice over all 30 titles. Ms. Wintour’s new titles are Chief Content Officer and Global Editorial Director of Vogue. Thankfully, I do not think she needs to worry about putting all that on a business card. Lynch states, “Anna’s appointment represents a pivotal moment for Condé Nast as her ability to stay ahead in connecting with new audiences.” An interesting comment given the realities of the past year.
The Statement
The more interesting variable is the rise of Vogue UK chief Edward Einnful. His approach has made the title relevant. Mr. Einnful will oversee France, Germany, Spain and Italy Vogue editions.
It is no secret magazines have struggled over the past years. Vogue and Conde Nast have not kept up with the times. Ad budgets have spread across different platforms. Print sales have declined. Titles have closed. Staff layoffs. How does this new deck chair arrangement change the present landscape for Conde Nast? Instagram and Tik Tok have become the place for instant fashion influence and inspiration. I see cost savings in this revamp, but no fresh ideas. That could be a continuing problem for the Vogue team.
