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Fashion

Unpredictable, but I’m still going to Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo 2025 starts January 14th in Florence Italy.  The bi-annual menswear fashion trade fair showcases brands, style and trends from around the world. The fashion world faces strong headwinds as economies slow down, consumers cut back and geo-politics rattle business.  During a Zoom Call with Director of Communication Lapo Cianchi, the head gave one word, “Unpredictable” is the general outlook in the fashion world. The frank honesty was welcomed.  The business model for fashion trade show is being called into question. Since Covid, the attendance numbers have not recovered.  Even so, Pitti Uomo is a special gathering for men’s fashion lovers. 

With over 800 exhibitors signed, this upcoming apparel forum is an important event on the calendar.  MM6 from French house Maison Margiela hits the runway with “do not follow the rules” looks.   The other designer on the calendar, Satoshi Kuwata, comes to Tuscany with his label Setchu.  According to the brand’s web page “a fusion of two cultures” is the basis of the gender-neutral aesthetic.

Pitti Uomo Center
Center Court at Pitti Uomo’s Fortezza da Basso

Fashion and lifestyle concepts continue to evolve and merge.  Concepts of Community and Active Style of Living have emerged as consumers push more into experiences over brand linkage.  Producers, buyers and creatives seek shared passions with communal relationships and passions for the same ideas and values. 

Knees Up, a new concept store centered around Marathon enthusiasts has a prominent role at Pitti Uomo. The popular retail space located in East London offers fashion, coffee, sportswear and a place to recover from physical training.  Several athletic brands will exhibit with the first-time headliner in Fortezza da Basso.

The same questions linger, but have become more obvious. As customers move away from well-known masstige labels, will retailers take a chance on small brands?  Perhaps in these rattled times, a small bet can pay back big returns.   

Of course, we expect the traditional Dandy pageantry in the center courtyard.  

Pitti Uomo starts January 14th until 17th in Florence Italy. 

Categories
Fashion

All Gussied Up

At the recent press events I attended, noticing the fashion tribe I wondered.  Why do they wear everything but the frying pan? Many were gussied up wearing all the labels from their shelves popping in and out of offices and showrooms. I wondered if there had been a looting at a luxury department store.   The pride of being kitsch while not understand the meaning of the word scares me.

Chanel’s quote is, “The last thing you put on, take off.” This has been lost on the Kill for TikTok crowd.   When at one time anyone with an eye could see quality and style, in today’s social media driven world standing out as if you were the Oscar Mayer Weiner Mobile at a 4th of July Parade means everything. 

It is sad to look dated after only two hours.  A great style is eternal.  Jackie O never wore a brand emblazoned on her chest. Before Covid, around 2018, many fashion houses redesigned logos to take advantage of the camera phone ratio in an attempt to attract younger buyers.  Monogramed mania took over the fashion industry. Every piece had to display a name.

The world had been hit with a name brand sledgehammer. The influencers, TikTokers wear everything all at once.  This embellishment veers to pathological bad taste.  Imagine stuck in a room with a person who has a big Louis Vuitton bag, Chanel glasses, oversized Balenciaga sneakers and a shinning Gucci jacket. I needed a certified CPA degree to track all the names.   How many of these items were fake?  No clue!

The shift to subtle fashion has taken place, however I do not think it has made its way to the younger crowd. “Bling” is still a way of life, showing off for the camera.  Thankfully, kitchen items do not have a YSL monogram on the side. 

Categories
Fashion

Spring 2025 Fashion Week Reviews

Of course we have not forgotten Fashion Week during Tech Month. Going over the looks is always a pleasure. Look for our reviews and Before Tacky Podcast soon.

Categories
Fashion

Vivid From LA

Streetwear fashion label BruceGlen has an expressive take on streetwear. The Los Angeles based brand goes for vivid looks. I met twin brothers Bruce and Glen Proctor at the Milan Fashion Week Hub while the duo were showing some of the expressive pieces. Are these pieces a person would wear everyday? Who cares! As they said, “It’s about fun.”

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Before Tacky Fashion podcast

A Before Tacky Brief

Fashion designer Brett Johnson talks about creativity in this Before Tacky Brief.

Check out the entire podcast here:

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Before Tacky Fashion podcast

Fashion at 0331

At Milan Fashion Week in the HUB, start-up label 0331 had a display in the new designers section. The Milan creative collectives started the brand with sustainable practices, up-cycling used denim to new forms.

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Fashion

Guess Jeans Repositions

I remember the Guess Jean ads from the 90s. Those sexy images of models and celebrities posing in soft black and white images produced by some of the world’s most famous photographers, including Ellen von Unwerth. The pictures defined an era of denim marketing.

Guess Jeans
90’s ad with Ann Nicole Smith


Founded in 1981 by four brothers, Georges, Paul, Armand and Maurice Marciano in South of France. Moving to the United States, the Marcianos found great success, starting a high-end denim brand mingled with the California lifestyle.

At Pitti Uomo 105, the Los Angeles based label had a bit of relaunch. Using the menswear trade fair, Guess had an impressive display of showing the company’s past, present and future. Using the Florence music hall, representatives gave a tour along with a meet and greet of the installation, showing its evolution to sustainable production and new store designs.


Will it work? In many ways, Guess fell off the radar of trend conscious shoppers. Facing competition from behemoths Zara and H&;M, repositioning a fashion brand targeting young buyers will not be easy. The well known red question mark inside triangle has it work cut out for itself luring customers who shop with emotional attachments to apps searching for cheap clothing.

Is success written in the future, or will Guess just continue to cruise in the slow lane? If the Florence presentation was down payment on the next forty years.

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Before Tacky Fashion podcast

Statement Street Fashion

Street fashion is a statement of independence. A mixing of top to bottom pieces to stand out from the crowd. At Pitti Uomo Raf Ryes talks about his streetwear brand VERYRARE. The Paris based designer discusses his influences and inspiration behind the label as well as the designs that are based on artworks.

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Before Tacky Fashion

Pitti Uomo 2024

From Pitti Uomo 2024, style consultant Taiwo talks about fashion trends and styles. What should men wear this year? Click below to listen to the Before Tacky Podcast conversation.

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Before Tacky podcast

Sustainable Red Carpet

Cannes Film Festival 2023, a bold red carpet look based on the principles of a circular sustainability. Actress Eugenia Kuzmina graced the Croisette in a dress designed by Mira von der Osten for CRUBA.

Click on the video to find out what made the creation special.