I met Sohee Park in 2022 during her presentation supported by Dolce&Gabbana. The London based designer impressed with a collection that was both stunning and assured. Now in 2025, the Korean born creative head is presented collections in Paris for Couture Week. GOOD JOB!
Another day another fashion accessory scandal hits the airwaves. Once again Prato finds itself at the center of suspect labor practices. This time Aljazeera uncovered more shoddy production in the Tuscany city. Major fashion brands employing contractors, sub-contractors and sub-sub-contractors engage in cat and mouse games in order to circumvent Italian Labor laws.
As luxury increased prices on one end, they sought out cheaper production on the other. Capitalism rewards those who exploit more efficiently Workers earning as little as 3 euros an hour work a twelve-hour day, sometimes six days a week manufacturing glamorous leather pieces that sell for as much as 3400 euros in high-end shops.
There is nothing wrong having a labeled expensive handbag. But the dilemma is the hidden or not hidden mechanics of the product coveted. An expensive leather handbag is a sought of trophy. However, what if the prize comes from an unscrupulous source? The most convenient human emotion to access is denial.
The brazenness of luxury brands and producers to almost flaunt their less than ethical ways is baffling. Supply chains are easily traceable in 2024. Everyone has a camera and a social media account with potential to post a brand damaging image.
A big leather factory with illegal sweatshop labor wouldn’t go unnoticed. Yet, why are the companies relaxed about sourcing products? Because executives know consumers will forget a scandal. Certainly the outrage will be hot and loud at the beginning, then back to normal.
While watching the investigative report, the saying “It is morally wrong to allow a sucker to keep his money” came to my mind. When a factory owner details the nebulous agreements then the manufacturing price of a handbag, the world of luxury accessory is a sucker’s desire. One item made with a third party inflated added cost of 84 euros in Italy, retails for 2800 euros in soft lite carpeted outlets around the world.
Now when I see a person with a designer handbag proudly walking down the street with an air of style superiority. I will have to hold back my snigger.
At the recent press events I attended, noticing the fashion tribe I wondered. Why do they wear everything but the frying pan? Many were gussied up wearing all the labels from their shelves popping in and out of offices and showrooms. I wondered if there had been a looting at a luxury department store. The pride of being kitsch while not understand the meaning of the word scares me.
Chanel’s quote is, “The last thing you put on, take off.” This has been lost on the Kill for TikTok crowd. When at one time anyone with an eye could see quality and style, in today’s social media driven world standing out as if you were the Oscar Mayer Weiner Mobile at a 4th of July Parade means everything.
It is sad to look dated after only two hours. A great style is eternal. Jackie O never wore a brand emblazoned on her chest. Before Covid, around 2018, many fashion houses redesigned logos to take advantage of the camera phone ratio in an attempt to attract younger buyers. Monogramed mania took over the fashion industry. Every piece had to display a name.
The world had been hit with a name brand sledgehammer. The influencers, TikTokers wear everything all at once. This embellishment veers to pathological bad taste. Imagine stuck in a room with a person who has a big Louis Vuitton bag, Chanel glasses, oversized Balenciaga sneakers and a shinning Gucci jacket. I needed a certified CPA degree to track all the names. How many of these items were fake? No clue!
The shift to subtle fashion has taken place, however I do not think it has made its way to the younger crowd. “Bling” is still a way of life, showing off for the camera. Thankfully, kitchen items do not have a YSL monogram on the side.
Of course we have not forgotten Fashion Week during Tech Month. Going over the looks is always a pleasure. Look for our reviews and Before Tacky Podcast soon.
Streetwear fashion label BruceGlen has an expressive take on streetwear. The Los Angeles based brand goes for vivid looks. I met twin brothers Bruce and Glen Proctor at the Milan Fashion Week Hub while the duo were showing some of the expressive pieces. Are these pieces a person would wear everyday? Who cares! As they said, “It’s about fun.”
“Luxury bags make your life more pleasant, make you dream, give you confidence, and show your neighbors you’re doing well.” Largerfeld.
As the luxury handbag bubble pops due to working condition and mark-up scandals and over, there are alternatives to big brands. The labels I listed below are small, not mass produced, but more importantly, unique. A person carrying one of these pieces will get a lot of compliments.
While in Milan, walking by Up You To Anthology on my way to a Fashion Week appointment, I decided to go in. After speaking to the curator, he told me each bag is designed by artists with a limited production run.
During Pitti Uomo I always pass by the Sentiero Florence store. Looking in the window I decided to go in and see. The sales lady told me about the family owned label still producing handbags in Tuscany.
I am recommending this brand because the online review have been good for this Madrid’s La Portegna. Spanish producers are known for quality leather goods.
I met the Bonastre team at Pitti Uomo. As a small luxury brand the designer and staff have close relationship all aspects of the Paris based label from design to the final product.
The musical chairs continue in the fashion world as yet more creative heads have departed major houses. I was in a state of shock when Pierpaolo Piccioli exited as head of Rome brand house Valentino after twenty-five years. The couture label epitomized glamour with its monochromatic pink looks and feathered head pieces. All great rides come to an end. Piccioli’s clock rang. However, the clock was ticking. When powerhouse Kering bought 30% of the house in July 2023, changes were coming. As a media sweetheart, Valentino matched Louis Vuitton with celebrity filled fashion shows in Paris. As a major sales force, the numbers came up short. Enter the former Kering alumi and past darling Alessandro Michele. The once head of Gucci has been given the task make the sixty-four-year-old brand commercially relevant. It is a curious mix of bling meets classical style. It will be interesting to see the next evolution of the big V logo brand in Spring 2025 collection
Here are more looks from Milan Fashion Week.
From New York to London to Milan and now Paris, there is a trend. After reviewing fashion weeks looks and pieces for Spring 24, there is definitely a change happening. Wearable styles without selfie friendly monograms are charging down the runways.
The second part of the Before Tacky Podcast with Borsalino Head of Styling Jacopo Politi and Actress Eugenia Kuzmina talk about the Headwear design and what goes into making an amazing hat.