The diversity question is first and forefront in the fashion business. Triggered by global protests, a reckoning is taking place. Are fashion environments racists? An industry in need of different voices, falling short when it comes to inclusion, fashion is an elitist field until recently only for the few living on 5th avenue in New York.
I made a quick video on my interactions, views and experiences.
I hope fashion makes meaningful long-lasting changes. Not just following a # for the shake of social media legitimacy. The industry talks the talk. But fall short when it comes to the walk.
I met Flora Cusi during Milan Fashion Week in September 19. The young bag designer debuted her new bag collection and brand, Yosono, to press and buyers. Engaging with new designers is always exciting because of the enthusiasm. Lastly, the chance to watch the person grow is rewarding. I hope she makes it.
Designer Silvia Scaramucci pic by FloFashion
I met Flora Cusi during Milan Fashion Week in September 19. The young bag designer debuted her new bag collection and brand, Yosono, to press and buyers. Engaging with new designers is always exciting because of the enthusiasm. Lastly, the chance to watch the person grow is rewarding. I hope she makes it.
When I arrived in Milan at the Malpensa Airport terminal I did not expect a scene from the “X-Files”. Global headlines have caught up to me. From head to toe wearing Hazmats, health officials were testing for the Coronavirus with digital thermometers. Welcome to Fashion Week. The week got even more interesting. My journey on the subway and trams. I suspected something was off when I got a seat on the subway. Sadly, the last two days of the fashion, the feeling became grim. Trade-fare visitors were sparse. Many exhibitors seemed more rejected lonely hearts club guests.
On the 23rdall Milan Fashion Week events were cancelled due to an outbreak north of Milan.
Fast Highlights 1
On Via Manzoni, Antonio Croce presented a collection based on the Southern California Sunset. What inspiration! I loved the strong sensuality. Sun drenched coats and suits and print coats filled the space.
When a fashion show opens up with the Italian Version of Lou Reed’s 1973 classic song “Walk on the Wild Side”. I should count on 70′ interpretations. I am a fan of Bea Arthur’s sitcom “Maude”. Her Finley character wore floor length vests. Cividini had a look in his collection inspired by this decade staple piece.
I do not associate Kiton with strong women’s looks. It is a brand known for suits and classic wears. The brand’s new bag has a BIG K on the opening clasp. A comment I heard, “Those who buy Kiton may not like such blatant monogramming items designed for social media. The sales will see. But there was one look I really liked for a Red Carpet styling, a two piece white pleated dress with sleeveless top.
A come back kid in the making could be Untied Colors of Benetton. The once household RTW brand has been knocked about over many years. With Jean Charles Castelbajac at the creative helm it looks there are some better more social media smart moves happening.
For sheer impressive theater, Fratelli Rossetti really went out the way to give an extra mile. At the Visconti Palace with models dressed in white on stage and trampolines with an added Piano Concert. PS, I want a pair of the embroided Brea shoes.
Stay Tuned for more coverage on Milan Fashion Week.
Using an impressive location in Paris, the Spanish Embassy, Juana Martin made her debut at Haute Couture Week 2020. Her collection, “Les Cours De Ma Maison”, reflected an Andalusian background influenced by Flamenco dancing and dress. The Cordoba native gave the audience generous looks of embroidery, shawls, and headpieces. I would call the collection “Personal”. A reflection of a person who loves her “Tierra”.
Designer Martin and actress de Palma take a bow.
Spanish Actress Rossy De Palma showed up at the end for a touch of authentic flamenco. I have been a fan of hers since “Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown”. But you will have to wait for that video.
Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture is over. This season, a strange feeling hovered over the French Capital. Numerous strikes have paralysedFrance. President Macron’s reform policies have not gone down well the citizens. I am not familiar with Gaul politics and economy but Paris was a city filled with tension. How many strikes occur in Paris on a weekly basis? I knew this would be a different fashion week when my flight was delayed. When I arrived at Charles De Gaulle airport, the first announcement I heard, “Due to industrial action,,,”. “Welcome!”
Secondly, Paris was really cold and gray. One day the temperature hit -4. Not pleasant weather for running around from show to show or standing outside for an extra 30 or 40 minutes. This fashion week events never start on time.
All shows had extra security on hand. The entire city has been on alert for threats.
Is This Worth It?
My problem with fashion has been the democratization has been haphazard at best. I am beginning to wonder if it is worth attending a fashion week. Standing in lines, Fighting crowds, the expenses, the ROI seems to diminish. Has Instagram and social media has been a blessing or a curse? A lot of invites, a lot of attendees, but why? The agencies cannot keep up with the requests. The crowd control situation is the same as a South American Bus Station. However, strangely, many shows were not at full capacity.
At one show, I saw how exasperated the staff became. All of the sudden there are so many stylists, photographers, and influencers. HUH? I asked a few to show me their work. An Instagram Selfie is now an editorial. Then, there are those who borrow or buy clothes (later returned) for a fashion show appearance. The people who really work during fashion week cannot dress as if their are attending the Red Carpet Met Gala. I can spot them a front row seat away.
Thankfully, I do not have the need to be seen at every fashion show. If I sit five rows back, I ususally say, “send me the pictures”.
GoodBye
The big news from Paris Haute Couture Week, sadly, the last show for Jean Paul Gaultier. Sexual, imaginative, and ahead of the gender curve designer bowed out after 50 years on the scene. Gaultier stopped making Ready to Wear designs years ago, now, no more Couture looks. The star studded show was packed with his friends walking the runway. His classic breton stripes interpretations and ethnic chic influences, his frivolity will be missed.
I am still going over the looks from Haute Couture Week, please stay tuned. A lot of reviews coming soon.
