For some reason Paris Fashion Week felt a bit desperate for attention this season. Pandering is never good. In the crowded landscape designers are under pressure to get that viral moment to stand above the rest. For this reason, some collections looked disjointed, a circle in a square peg. Creatively, the City of Lights fashion scene has become overly vulnerable to smartphone scrolling.
The big news, Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino. The stage setting fitting for the Rome born designer: dreams and romance. That was the problem. Valentino was a brand of refined elitism. Jackie O to Joan Collins, the Jet Set Crowd wore the label as an emblem of being in a certain club. Alessandro’s collection, while lush, comes across as garish compared to the house’s past styles. While in doubt of the 51-year-old talent, his Gucci era heavily influenced looks on the runway. It is no secret Kering Group invested in the house, perhaps a way to challenge Louis Vuitton in the uber luxury brand category, however, as soft luxury is trending with shoppers, why did they allow Alessandro to drive the opposite direction?
Demna at Balenciaga continues to challenge what makes fashion, fashion. The French label is popular with young buyers. The oversized sneakers were a must have for anyone under twenty-five. The giant logo on shirts worked in the Selfie Age. In 2024 the Georgian born returned to what he did best. Oversized jackets that belong on a lifeboat and baggy jeans were runway staples. Inner wear for the night, perfect for going to the 1920’s KitKat club. Do these looks work with young people looking for the lowest price on an app? Only the book keepers at Balenciaga know the answer.
Stay tuned for more fashion weeks coverage and more episodes of the Before Tacky Podcast.